I am considering removing the cab from my truck and wonder how afraid I should be of this step.

I have removed the 1/2 acre of South Dakota dirt which had coalesced with at least 90 weight grease on all the undercarriage, removed all the rust and wire brushed everything down to bare metal. It looks so darn good I can't imagine not doing the same to the rest of the frame and engine bay.

My truck has the original 292 with the original four speed, granny gear transmission. I am in the process of installing power steering which would also be easier with the cab removed so more reasons to consider this action.

Guys, I'm 65 and would love to finish my truck before my actuarial life expectancy arrives so it's really important to me to have a totally honest and realistic answer as to whether removing the cab is something I should do. I will not be offended if someone predicts my natural death before reinstallation of cab is complete.

 

It is really not that hard. 3 or 4 guys can do it. Or, if you have a barn with strong enough rafters, you can hoist it off. Others here have even used a motor hoist.

 

It really depends on the condition of your cab. If it is solid, it's maybe a weekend job to remove the cab if you have a good set of 6 point wrenches, especially if you have a strong impact wrench. I'd highly recommend you get a 1/2" impact wrench if you don't have one. I have a compact Aircat pneumatic and a Milwaulkee 18V cordless for portability or if you don't have enough compressor for a pneumatic. Either one will remove lug nuts with ease without needing to break them loose first, They will also remove the most frozen nut or break the bolt (sometimes easier than removing them if you plan to replace the fastener anyhow). The stripped cab is light enough for four guys to lift off the frame. The cooterbob method is to put a 4x4 thru the cab windows and use a comealong hung from a large tree branch to lift with and roll the chassis out from underneath. You'll need to disconnect all the wiring. remove the steering box and column, disconnect the emergency brake, remove the seat then unbolt the frame mounts. If you are planning major upgrades, new brake lines, new wiring, engine rebuild or upgrade, new rear axle, rebuild or replace springs, etc then it will be easier and cleaner to take the cab off. If you just want to pretty up the undercarriage, then rent or buy a power washer, Put the truck up on jackstands and hire a neighborhood teen for 20-30.00 armed with a narrow paint scraper and stiff scrub brushes to lay underneath and blast off all the crud with a strong detergent like Simple Green or Tide. Once it dries for a day or two get your buddy back to spray it with a coat of rust converter then paint it with an industrial coating like Sherwin-Williams moisture cure urethane available at their industrial coatings outlet stores. It's a one part finish that can be applied with brush, roller or spray. It dries tougher than epoxy, can be touched up. It is used for jet hanger floors and inside of municipal steel water tanks.
If your cab has a lot of rust out, especially the floor, door frames, rockers and/or cab corners then you should repair it first or at least stabilize it by welding in temporary bracing to keep it square and in one piece before removing it.

 

I don't know what PS sytem you're installing, but there is no reason to remove the cab with any system I'm familiar with.

 

i used a 4x4 across cab (doors removed) or thru the front/back windows (glass removed) and my engine hoist as a lift. had to disconnect the steering gear at the chassis, and the column access hole cover too.

of course, the front sheet metal was removed first. 4 bolts to hold the cab to the chassis.

Sam

 

I've removed mine several times, it's really easy. I'm able to remove with two people as long as the doors and seat are removed. just remove the 4 mounting bolts, if the pedals are stock, remove the pads and drop through the floor. Don't forget to unhook the e/cable. I took mine off (still off) several times for sand blasting and mocking up parts as I'm doing a frame up resto. One word of caution, the cab is a bit front heavy, so keep that in mind when lifting.

 

Thank you guys for the great information.

I have read where there may be issues remounting the cab and getting the bolt holes lined up, etc. so any tips on how to avoid that will also be greatly helpful.

AXracer, I know I don't have to remove the cab to put the power steering unit on but figured if the cab was off for other reasons it would then be easier to do the power steering stuff. I also have a set of ramhorns that I am putting on so access to everything should be easier.

Thank you for the info on cleaning and spraying the undercarriage. I have been studying like crazy on the best cleaning and rust removal products and never would have thought of using Tide and Simple Green.

I am so glad to be a part of this forum....hope I don't overstay my welcome with too many questions.

Fred

 

NASCAR used Tide to clean the spilled jet and diesel fuel at Daytona speedway when Montoya ran into the jet drier during the Daytona 500.
I used it to clean the service bay floors when I worked at a service station as a teen. I also use it mixed with clorox to clean my deck.

 

You can never ask too many questions, we are a friendly and helpful bunch here. Unless you REALLY WANT to remove the cab, you can get all the room to work you could possibly need by removing the hood, inner and outer fenders, a couple hour job.

 

Hello and welcome to the forum!

I'll weigh in with a little bit of ignorance....that is with respect to the 55 model. I have a 52. The 52 cab is mounted in the front on rubber pads, and in the back on swing-arms. When I removed my cab I found that the bushings totally worn out & bought a kit from Dennis Carpenter. This can all be done without removing the cab...it can be done in place with a jack and blocks of wood to lift the cab a little...one corner at a time. Here's a pic of the swing-arms:

 

Mid Fifty sells adjustable rear cab mounts for your cab. Those and two bolts thru the floor at the bottom of the front door posts are what mount the cab to the frame. The cab mounting was designed to flex, since the frame was also designed to twist and flex.

 

Thank you again, guys.

I really don't want to remove the cab and thank you for pointing out what should have been obvious regarding removal of the hood and inner fenders. I'm quite certain that is the route I will go unless I lose even more brain matter....which at age 65 seems to be disappearing at an increasing rate!

You guys are great.

 

It may be a bit late, but I'll throw in my 2c. I think you're on the right track by not removing the cab afterall. Everything you want to do, you can do easily by simply removing the front end sheet metal. That's a lot easier than messing with under dash wiring, steering box and column, and all the rusty mount bolts, plus the hassle of lifting it off the frame. It takes strong backs and/or equipment to do it, even if it isn't necessarily 'hard'.

Good luck with your project.

 

Hello and welcome. I read thru the previous post and saw THEE key words here "I really dont want to remove the cab". Taking those four main bolts loose that hold the cab to the frame has stalled a few projects I have seen in the few years I have been messing with these trucks. Like Sam and Ax said if your cab is solid and there is NO real need to IMHO I wouldnt do it. Again welcome. You will find this bunch here to be very helpful and friendly.

 

Yes, if you take off the front sheet metal and the bed (or just the wood, most want/need to replace the wood anyways), there will be very little of the chassis still covered by the cab and everything will be easily accessible. It's not that removing the cab is very difficult, but why do it if you don't have to?