refer to post 13

 

When i bought my 05 F-150 Larriat she ran a little rough. After the first week she started hesitating and started to stall at red lights or when stoped for a bit. I found some helpful info on a fourm. I removed the air cleaner then all the small stuff in the way. Next I removed the throttle body. what i found behind the hinged butterfly door was an ton of carbon build up. It was starting to push on the door causing the sensor to tell the computer one thing while your actualy stopped . Meaning it wont let it idol with the carbon build up in the way.
FYI use MASS air flow sensor cleaner or similar. carborator cleaner will take the finish off and will cause rust!
This worked like a charm for me. Has ran smooth ever since. I love My Ford TRUCKS.
I hope this info will help and it only took me 2hs to do. minus the drive to vatozone.
GOOD LUCK!!!

 

I experienced something similar to this over the weekend after pulling a trailer. I talked to a Mechanic at the Ford dealer I trust and he told me to switch to a heavier oil instead of 5w20 go to a 5w30 after some miles get put on these engines and the 5w20 heats up the engine can't keep correct oil pressure at idle going to a heavier oil will fix the problem or is what he told me haven't changed my oil yet but I am going to try it.

 

After you try everything put a dial indicator on the crank pulley and see if the crank moves back and forth .020" or more like 70f150 says. Everything becomes a problem then including timing.

 

I have had a bad thrust washer but the crank did not move. The piece of washer was wedged between the crank and block. Removing the pan is the only way to be sure.

 

I had a Ford mechanic look at it today. He seen two trucks recently do the same, and said he would check the base oil pressure. My truck was 18, when it should be 25, so he said it was starving the top half of the engine when hot. No oil is causing the lifters to rattle, so he is working on a warranty claim for potentially a new engine.

 

In the meantime, he added 10W40. Said the boiling point was much higher and would keep the engine pressure up. He said instantly was above 30, and hasn't rattle since. Only 30 miles on it since he did that. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

It sounds like the loose crank main bearings loosing oil psi is suspect now. Hope the engine repair/replacement under warranty goes well.

 

This is kinda disturbing. As I was searching and learning about VCT gear due to my bro-n-law his blowing out all the oil; I learned that the 5-20 is used to supply the cam phasers. The cam phasers have small oil ports and thus the need for the 5-20.

I do not know enough about the inner workings since this is all new to me as we just bought a 2010 Lariat. So I'm on a steep curve here.

But, I'm thinking 5-20 also read in the past was for improving the C.A.F.E. numbers for the fleet. Not everyone can afford to run Royal Purple or your fav. synthetic. So running a 5-20 would in short time evaporate the volatiles and leave a thicker base that will not lubricate as well and even when new oil pressure may be on the margin of being sat. Do not intend to hi-jack or start any oil wars just thinking out loud here about how this one item may contribute to the overall reliability of the engines.

I went from Dodge to Fords back in 93 and never looked back. That said non of them are perfect or ideal such is big business operating to meet a wide range of consumers. But given poor gas quality and typical neglected maintenance I am prone to think much of this is contributes to carbon and sludge build up in the intake system and overall engine. Before replacing so many major parts maybe a slow systematic approach to a good engine cleaning of oil and fuel systems and take note of progress and driving habit to see how well it is progressing.

Good luck keep us informed that's the ay we learn.

 

While 5w-20 was conceived as a way to help with mpg it was an overall higher quality oil than 5w-30. Maybe 5W-30 has caught up in the SN designation. I've used Motorcraft 5W-20 in my 2002 F-150 since new and have never had to add any oil in 5,000 OCI's. Granted I'm not in the desert but all oils have to meet a minimal NOAK minimum #. I think it's 15% now.

Whimsey

 

Hey Whimsey is it true that the oil orifice for the phasers are so small that only a 5-20 oil will work? Left me puzzled after I read in other posts that they used a 5-30 and up to 10-40 to quiet the engine down. Now I"m thinking oh-oh problem creeping up due to heavier oil?

These engine are all new to me so I have no idea about the nuances of what they will tolerate... but I've used synthetics since my old aviation days so the comfort factor on a 5-20 is just now getting there...!

 

My findings with oils are that in hot weather 5W30- 10W30 protect the crankshaft better. In extremely harsh/or heat 10W40 does even better. There is a slight decrease in MPG. The Ecoboost uses 5W30 waranty oil. It has cam VCT also. Ford realized how hard the lil motor has to work to perform with the big boys and moved on it. After millions of operating hours, I have never had an engine fail due to 5W30, 10W30 or 10W40 motor oils when changed normally.

 

good thing it's my wife's truck and it's her git round town truck...but when I drive it, it's all about hearing that sweet deep throaty rumble and in south Texas 90+ days are pretty normal...I will chat with my dealer...thanks for the follow up have a great week...

 

I have a 2008 expedtion 5.4 liter that is doing the exact same thing.After driving for 30 minutes when I put the truck in reverse and barely touch the gas the motor would run very rough like it wanted to die. I recently had new cam phasers, guides and chain put on that fixed anotherproblem " rattle at start up". I also replaced the coil packs thinking one was failing after warm up. ChadMckee have you fixed your truck yet?