what kind of FICM did you get??

 

That lower Trans Temp needs to be edited - it is just showing coolant temp. The one above looks like the corrected gauge... I'd just use the real estate on the screen for more voltage info, like FICM Vehicle Power... Or Voltage at OBD Connector (this one reads the closest to at the battery Volts for me anyway).

Congrats on getting her back on the road!
Scott

 

Great to see your back on the road.

 

Today, I dreamed of someone brave enough to throw away their dash, and replace it with this (and another tablet for touch input):

 

You've heard of the term: Distracted Driving?! That would bring it to a whole new level...

 

Well, let evolution does its job :-)

 

and that is why I ABSOLUTELY REFUSED to drive the Prius that we had at work, because of all of the displays showing the energy cycles, battery/fuel use and such. Being a pool vehicle, I never had it long enough to figure out how to ignore or change the displays.

 

Hmmmm. I notice your boost gauge is reading -27.2 and you have 2 different map gauges.

I need to rename my map gauge also. I wonder what torque pro is labeling as boost.

 

Decided to clean out the bed of the leftover "extra" parts. In the process i decided to clean the old turbo up before putting it away in storage. Some ways i want to rebuild it for a spare that i can just throw in if i need it down the road and other ways i just want to give it away to someone. Still torn on that part.





Was a little surprised at how oil saturated the compressor side was when i pulled it apart. It had a pretty significant oil leak when i rebuilt it before but didnt look near that bad then... just a puddle in the bottom of the outlet tube... so kinda wondering why it ended up looking like that...





Then despite no radial play in the shaft the bearings had some slight scoring in them. The right one only had the scoring in that one spot which was the turbine side... The left one had it all the way around at the galley holes. Not sure why.



Everything else came out clean.



Theres a little pitting/scoring on the turbine side heat shield that protects the bearings. (least thats what im calling that part since it sits behind the turbine wheel between it and the bearings)



almost looks like you could just put it back together with them parts... no damage there at all...)





Also found the original compressor wheel to show the differences between the 2. With having rebuilt this turbo once before. Im still a little surprised at the oil saturation in the compressor housing.

 

I was going to wash her and take the snow tires off...................but we might get hit with another 12+" on snow the end of the week,,,,,,,,,

 

i was only planning to wash out the inside of the bed from all the oil that leaked outta the turbo and other parts i had off... but ended up making a clean spot on the fender to washed the whole truck to "hide" the clean spot lol... normally i wouldnt wash it at this time of the year because of pine pollen falling right now... but cant leave a clean spot to show on a dirty truck lol

 

New push pins

New Motorcraft brake rotors.

Spindle nut.

Bearings

Spindle all cleaned.

Bearing cleaned and repacked, inner hub all cleaned up.

Ready for spindle nut then axle shaft.

A push pin froze and ruined rotor, so I replaced everything I could and repacked bearings since they were perfect condition.

 

hope you have better luck with that inner seal than i did... i ended up having to take it in after 3 attempts trying to get it to seal...

 

Really, did you find out why it wouldn't seal properly?

 

nope.... the dealership wasnt real good at explanations... always treated me like a no-nothing-about-cars kinda customer... which tended to tick me off when dealing with them... but whatever they did worked and hasnt leaked since... i even bought the special tool for installing that stupid seal... I kept trying to ask people on the various forums about it since it was the first time dealing with a dually.. but as usual when i needed help/info everyone i knew then up and disappeared without a reply... couple of them eventually replied but by then it was like 3 weeks after i got it back from the dealer so it was pointless.. (only reason i was taking it to the dealership too was because everytime i tried to find a smaller shop like FS, Merc or places like that "we cant handle something that big...")

first time i thought i just hammered it in too hard (like driving it in with 1 or 2 hits with the mallet kinda hard)... test driving ended up coating the underside of the truck and drum brakes in gear oil... so the second time i tried lightly tapping it in... with everything cleaned off the test drive did the same thing but also had a puddle under the truck after it was parked for a few mins... 3rd time i looked for burs and other crap despite doing the light sanding and emery cloth stuff the prior times... when it leaked again i was just fed up and took it in to let someone else deal with it... at $30 a seal i was fed up..

when i got it back i was really annoyed they backed off the parking brake to the point it wouldnt touch the drum even when set and never adjusted it back.. which i need to do some more adjustments on that again...