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And it becomes real important if you use an cam with higher lift, in the case of this motor, needing to use the FelPro gasket rather then the Motorcraft/Int gasket, the FelPro being 0.010" thicker.
Even though well below freezing I got the new ABS sensor fitted. Found out what the problem was - cable had been routed the wrong way over the shield and had got cut.
Taking the sensor out of the hub was a little tricky - since when are 5-sided Allen keys around?
Even though well below freezing I got the new ABS sensor fitted. Found out what the problem was - cable had been routed the wrong way over the shield and had got cut.
Taking the sensor out of the hub was a little tricky - since when are 5-sided Allen keys around?
It's not, German is 5-Kant Bit, French mentions pentagonal, it's exactly like an Allen bolt but with 5 sides. It holds the sensor in the hub. I tried metric and SAE Allen key sizes, was about to use a 5mm Allen key and hammer when I spotted the shape. Fortunately a big pair of pliers did the trick.
Don't know if ford or SKF use it, or whether it was something the workshop picked up somewhere, but if they do I need to buy the tool...
It's not, German is 5-Kant Bit, French mentions pentagonal, it's exactly like an Allen bolt but with 5 sides. It holds the sensor in the hub. I tried metric and SAE Allen key sizes, was about to use a 5mm Allen key and hammer when I spotted the shape. Fortunately a big pair of pliers did the trick.
Don't know if ford or SKF use it, or whether it was something the workshop picked up somewhere, but if they do I need to buy the tool...
Well it should of been. Unless Ford has gotten into the habit of having two different supplies one for US and one for non US trucks.
But they are too cheap assed to do that I think. Given that you found the wiring of the wrong side of the shield I bet who ever worked
on it last used the wrong fastener. You may want to check the other side to be sure the wring is routed correctly.
Well it should of been. Unless Ford has gotten into the habit of having two different supplies one for US and one for non US trucks.
But they are too cheap assed to do that I think. Given that you found the wiring of the wrong side of the shield I bet who ever worked
on it last used the wrong fastener. You may want to check the other side to be sure the wring is routed correctly.
If it should be a torx ok, that would make sense. But the guy who replaced the hub either used the screw that was already there, or picked up a replacement from somewhere. I'm wondering what else uses this type of drive and whether I need to buy the tools for it.
Truck is US spec and it was the hub that failed and got replaced, other side will be ok. I hope no other mistakes got made during the replacement...
Did you sneak a peek at the other hub to see if the routing is good?
In a quick and dirty Google search the 5-Kant Bit was showing up in the tamper-resistant Apex bit sets.
Could be that is where in lift they started out.
Did you sneak a peek at the other hub to see if the routing is good?
In a quick and dirty Google search the 5-Kant Bit was showing up in the tamper-resistant Apex bit sets.
Could be that is where in lift they started out.
Other hub is still factory original, never had problems with it. Next time I take the wheel off I'll try and look, but it is tight there.
I was looking at the bits too, Wikipedia states over 120 different types of drive system for screw heads. It's no wonder that boxes of special bits are so big...
I have one of the little tamper-resistant apex kits. I know they have bigger ones. As things stand now I have all the ones I need and a few I don't think I will ever use.
I think the worst ones to deal with are the center dimple torx screws. The bit is not meant for much torque. But if you have a stuck fastener you have to work at it or drill it.
No idea what companies are thinking when they design these tamper-proof systems - first thing the tool companies do is bring out the tools. Everyone without the tools just finds another way to get them loose, pliers, drill, hammer, whatever is likely to work.
KatZkins leather - I have kids under 5 that just beat the stock XLT interior and I got tired of cleaning it. Looked a lots of used Lariat seats and for less than those shipped my local upholstery shop was able to turn this around in 1 day.
No idea what companies are thinking when they design these tamper-proof systems - first thing the tool companies do is bring out the tools. Everyone without the tools just finds another way to get them loose, pliers, drill, hammer, whatever is likely to work.
One way screws are easy to get out with the tight tool.
The tool to take them does not work that well and I found that
a nice set of standard hoof nippers works so very well.
Oil & filter change along with greasing all the joints and giving it a look over. I used the Triax Fleet Supreme ESP 5W-40 - Full Synthetic oil.
I also swapped out the lower cigar lighter port with a dual USB that plugged directly to the Atoto Android head unit. Perfect fit and was accessed by removing the 2 screws and bag hanger panel. Everything available on Amazon.
12-27-2018, 09:52 PM
