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I'm trying to pull off my first transmission rebuild so I'm looking for advice. I have my trans tore apart and it wasn't that bad. I didn't use any special tools to get it apart but I'll be using/making some to get it back together. The ATSG manual was pretty good for guidance and I found a few threads on the net.
some pics:
and lots of new parts:
I have a BTS valve body, RacerX TC and rebuild kit.
Any advice on what to use to clean up parts? I found electric parts cleaner cuts through the black stuff fast but not sure if it will be ok on the parts. Also, I couldn't get the range sensor off, should I worry about that seal or let it go?
Also, any words of advice? now's the time, lol.
I wouldn't worry about the selector switch shaft seal unless it was leaking before. You can clean everything with brake clean, just make sure that you dry it good before assembly. Personally I would install the transgo tugger kit but you already have a valve body. There are a few other things in that kit that would be a good idea to get. The snap rings are probably the most important. Are you gonna use a new pump or reuse the old one?
I used mineral spirits to wash all the hard parts. I followed with brake cleaner to remove any residuals that compressed air didn't remove after washing. Like nissandoc said, I left the selector shaft seal alone. It wasn't leaking and I couldn't get the roll pin out that retains the shaft assembly. They make a reamer and oversize pin kit and I will go that route only when necessary, if the the seal goes to leaking.
Are the Coast Clutch and OD molded pistons included in the kit? How many miles on the trans and did it suffer any failure that left debris inside? Are you replacing any bearings or bushings?
Be very careful when installing the molded piston for the Coast Clutch. There is a sharp edge below the ramps of the one way clutch that will cut the seal lip.
I would air check all the clutch packs after assembly before you install the valve bodies. You can test some of the assemblies on the bench.
Even though you have the BTS VB, I would opt to buy a reprogramming kit for the additional upgrade parts included. You can still use your BTS VB and just add the other upgrades.
Any other questions, feel free to ask. That's what we're here for.
Thanks for the input guys.
This trans had 150k on it and was slipping while shifting. I haven't pulled everything apart yet but the OD clutches were completely smoked and warped. There was no debris but the fluid was very dark and the magnet in the tray was completely covered.
My rebuild parts are the seal and gasket kit you saw in the pic, a pump rebuild kit that also has a little metal piston, all new red eagle clutches and steels, and a racerx eagle triple disc converter. No OD or clutch coast molded pistons - is that a problem?
I put a note in my book to be careful installing that clutch coast molded piston, thanks!
I have no idea how to air test my clutch packs, do you have more info on that???
What additional upgrade parts are you guys thinking I should need? and why?
Sorry about all the questions, I'm a newbie with trannies but i'm having fun learning how this system works
If you are curious, RacerX did an E4OD rebuild on a forum, I made it into a pdf. It may help you with your rebuild. They did a great job documenting it.
I'm trying to pull off my first transmission rebuild so I'm looking for advice. I have my trans tore apart and it wasn't that bad. I didn't use any special tools to get it apart but I'll be using/making some to get it back together. The ATSG manual was pretty good for guidance and I found a few threads on the net.
....
This might be a silly question but I'll ask it anyway....
Since you have the thing apart, is there any way to count the teeth on the Over Drive gears? I know the ratio is 0.71 but I wonder if that number is simply rounded to the nearest hundredth decimal place. Having the actual gear teeth count would be interesting.
Originally Posted by woodnthings
If you are curious, RacerX did an E4OD rebuild on a forum, I made it into a pdf. It may help you with your rebuild. They did a great job documenting it.
Thanks for the input guys.
This trans had 150k on it and was slipping while shifting. I haven't pulled everything apart yet but the OD clutches were completely smoked and warped. There was no debris but the fluid was very dark and the magnet in the tray was completely covered. The reason I asked about mileage and the condtion of the trans is that grit can find its way into the Torrington bearings and would be difficult to flush out. A whole set of bearings is not that expensive and would be good insurance. Also, I would at least change the bushings in the pump, if nothing else. There is an upgraded one piece bushing for the output shaft, as well.
My rebuild parts are the seal and gasket kit you saw in the pic, a pump rebuild kit that also has a little metal piston, all new red eagle clutches and steels, and a racerx eagle triple disc converter. No OD or clutch coast molded pistons - is that a problem? I would replace both molded pistons. Some will say that they can be reused if still soft, but I'd rather be safe than sorry and replace them.
I put a note in my book to be careful installing that clutch coast molded piston, thanks! Good deal!
I have no idea how to air test my clutch packs, do you have more info on that??? The procedure should be shown on page 40 of the ATSG manual.
What additional upgrade parts are you guys thinking I should need? and why? The TransGo Tugger kit should have all the necessary upgrades. Sonnax also make a good upgrade kit, as well.
Sorry about all the questions, I'm a newbie with trannies but i'm having fun learning how this system works There is no reason to be sorry. Asking questions means you are doing your best to have a successful rebuild.
My responses are bolded and within your quote.
Here's the link to a 4R100 rebuild. Ford 4R100 Transmission rebuild / Disassembly pictures.. You will see several differences in the components between the two transmissions.
I got a little more done today. I successfully turned this thing:
into lots of these things:
Just picture those parts flying all across my dirty crowded garage floor.
But then I got it installed and i'm up to putting the snap ring onto the output shaft before I ran into another problem. The output shaft just doesn't poke through far enough to get the snap ring on.
Great rebuild threads btw. I'm going to look through them now for a clue as to what i did wrong.
Shake-n-bake, you get me pictures of what you want counted and i'll get you numbers.
I got a little more done today.
But then I got it installed and i'm up to putting the snap ring onto the output shaft before I ran into another problem. The output shaft just doesn't poke through far enough to get the snap ring on.
Great rebuild threads btw. I'm going to look through them now for a clue as to what i did wrong.
Is the thrust bearing seated properly on the rear of the case? The tab on the bearing may be keeping it from sitting flat against the case. See page 58 in the ATSG manual. I had a little trouble with that before, also.
Shake-n-bake, you get me pictures of what you want counted and i'll get you numbers.
Honestly, I have no clue what the parts might look like. The specifications have published gear ratios so I wonder how they come up with that number exactly. Normal method to determine the ratio between two gears sets is by counting teeth and dividing the smaller number into the larger number but I have no idea if that applies to automatic transmissions or not...
What I am really trying to do is figure out if the OD ratio is .71 exactly or is it really something like .7085 and was just rounded up?
I know how many revolutions that Ford has figured for my tire at a certain pressure and speed so I need the exact ratio to accurately calculate the differential gear ratio. I do have the workshop manual for the 4R100 but it's 489 pages...the Global Fundamentals curriculum training is 114 pages. The info I seek might be in there somewhere. I'll browse though it when I get a free moment...
Thanks anyway for the offer to help. If I figure out what I need than I'll post again with that request.
Is the thrust bearing seated properly on the rear of the case? The tab on the bearing may be keeping it from sitting flat against the case. See page 58 in the ATSG manual. I had a little trouble with that before, also.
yep, that was it. Got that and moved on to my next snag. Forward clutch clearance is about .063. My red eagle document calls for .035-.065 clearance but thats pretty close. One thing I need to do is "apply air to the clutch pack several times to seat friction and steel elements". Does anyone know where I apply air?
yep, that was it. Got that and moved on to my next snag. Forward clutch clearance is about .063. My red eagle document calls for .035-.065 clearance but thats pretty close. One thing I need to do is "apply air to the clutch pack several times to seat friction and steel elements". Does anyone know where I apply air?
Through the hole between the sealing ring grooves.
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