2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 engine knock?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 engine knock?
Truck is 5 speed and is ready for a new clutch, but when in neutral if i rev the engine i get a knock noise that increases and decreases with the direction of the RPM. It makes no difference if the clutch is depressed or not. Interesting to note that I can never hear this noise when at idle or under load. Any ideas what this could be ? I was concerned it was rod knock, but believe I would hear it while at idle .. so I don't have any clue. The engine looks and performs beautiful, again no knock under load or during idle. Idler pulley and tensioner/ pulley brand new, new belt, new tstat. tune up with new plugs and wires a month ago.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Can that really happen
I've never heard of that happening, is this really possible ? A bit more info on the engine. It has 156k on the motor. I have no idea if any timing chain work has ever been done. I checked again this morning and while cold, not knock ! I can rev as much as i want when its cold and no noise .. seriously no knocking, no lifter noise nothing but a solid rev both up and down the rpm spectrum. I added octane booster to the fuel this morning and again, knocking sound when rev the motor in neutral and the knocking noise is heard as the rpms go up and when they come down. Once at idle, no knocking even when warm ! When shifting on the hwy, the sound is only heard once the clutch is depressed to change gears as the rpms come down. When I rev while under the hood, the sound seems to come from the passenger side midway back to rear .. and i hear some strange squeak as well. I thought I heard this noise prior to an oil change I did, but nothing like I hear now. I used the recommended 5-20 and used a Fram oil filter. I have also now added 1/2 qt of lucus oil to see if my oil needs to be thicker .. no change.. I'm at a loss any help please. Thanks
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
You may have more than one problem, but right now the squeek you described caught my attention!!!!!
The 3.0L pushrod Vulcan engine is known to have cam sync problems & that might be the source of the squeek, if its coming from the top side of the engine back near the fire wall, where the distributor used to be.
Since the engine oil pump is also gear driven from this arrangement, it should be looked into without delay, because lubrication to these parts isn't good they can sieze, strip the oil pump drive gears & the engine is soon history. Use Ford replacement parts, Don't use Dorman, as they are known problem parts.
Most autoparts stores have the sync alignment tool in their "Loan-A-Tool" for a refundable deposit program.
Some thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your findings.
The 3.0L pushrod Vulcan engine is known to have cam sync problems & that might be the source of the squeek, if its coming from the top side of the engine back near the fire wall, where the distributor used to be.
Since the engine oil pump is also gear driven from this arrangement, it should be looked into without delay, because lubrication to these parts isn't good they can sieze, strip the oil pump drive gears & the engine is soon history. Use Ford replacement parts, Don't use Dorman, as they are known problem parts.
Most autoparts stores have the sync alignment tool in their "Loan-A-Tool" for a refundable deposit program.
Some thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your findings.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
I'd use the specified Motorcraft oil filter, others have been reported to cause oil pressure related engine knock.
If you decide to do the cam sync replacement, replace both parts while your in there & do it with Motorcraft.
If you decide to do the cam sync replacement, replace both parts while your in there & do it with Motorcraft.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Casa Grande,Az
What is the Motorcraft part # for the camshaft position synchronizer? Its a 03 3.0 Thanks
Last edited by pinger; Mar 8, 2012 at 04:13 PM. Reason: to add year and engine
Trending Topics
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thanks ! One problem down, one to go !
You may have more than one problem, but right now the squeek you described caught my attention!!!!!
The 3.0L pushrod Vulcan engine is known to have cam sync problems & that might be the source of the squeek, if its coming from the top side of the engine back near the fire wall, where the distributor used to be.
Since the engine oil pump is also gear driven from this arrangement, it should be looked into without delay, because lubrication to these parts isn't good they can sieze, strip the oil pump drive gears & the engine is soon history. Use Ford replacement parts, Don't use Dorman, as they are known problem parts.
Most autoparts stores have the sync alignment tool in their "Loan-A-Tool" for a refundable deposit program.
Some thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your findings.
The 3.0L pushrod Vulcan engine is known to have cam sync problems & that might be the source of the squeek, if its coming from the top side of the engine back near the fire wall, where the distributor used to be.
Since the engine oil pump is also gear driven from this arrangement, it should be looked into without delay, because lubrication to these parts isn't good they can sieze, strip the oil pump drive gears & the engine is soon history. Use Ford replacement parts, Don't use Dorman, as they are known problem parts.
Most autoparts stores have the sync alignment tool in their "Loan-A-Tool" for a refundable deposit program.
Some thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your findings.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
From your description sounds like it was a good idea to replace the sync. Since you couldn't come by a Motorcraft replacement part, pay close attention to your replacement & don't be surprised if problems arise with it & if they do, don't hesitate replacing it again & try to find a Motorcraft part.
On the knock, could you describe its sound & if its still coming from the passenger side mid way back, After the engine warms up & if its changed when it happens, or if its moved, where in the engine its coming from, top, bottom, front, rear????
Have you replaced the Fram oil filter with a Motorcraft????
Did this noise come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event????
On the knock, could you describe its sound & if its still coming from the passenger side mid way back, After the engine warms up & if its changed when it happens, or if its moved, where in the engine its coming from, top, bottom, front, rear????
Have you replaced the Fram oil filter with a Motorcraft????
Did this noise come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event????
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Additional info
From your description sounds like it was a good idea to replace the sync. Since you couldn't come by a Motorcraft replacement part, pay close attention to your replacement & don't be surprised if problems arise with it & if they do, don't hesitate replacing it again & try to find a Motorcraft part.
On the knock, could you describe its sound & if its still coming from the passenger side mid way back, After the engine warms up & if its changed when it happens, or if its moved, where in the engine its coming from, top, bottom, front, rear????
Have you replaced the Fram oil filter with a Motorcraft????
Did this noise come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event????
On the knock, could you describe its sound & if its still coming from the passenger side mid way back, After the engine warms up & if its changed when it happens, or if its moved, where in the engine its coming from, top, bottom, front, rear????
Have you replaced the Fram oil filter with a Motorcraft????
Did this noise come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event????
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,940
Likes: 8
From: Southern Oregon Coast
Sounds like that have a tendency to be "transmitted" - it may sound like it's coming from one place when it's actually coming from another...
I had a similar issue with my '77 after I did a head swap - I was hearing a weird noise in the exhaust. I went down to the parts store and bought a stethoscope that had a probe attachment (I've heard of people using broom handles, pipes, etc. to do the same thing, but I wanted to be sure) - turns out the sound originates in the heads and was being transmitted down through the exhaust.
If you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from, it might make it easier to diagnose.
I had a similar issue with my '77 after I did a head swap - I was hearing a weird noise in the exhaust. I went down to the parts store and bought a stethoscope that had a probe attachment (I've heard of people using broom handles, pipes, etc. to do the same thing, but I wanted to be sure) - turns out the sound originates in the heads and was being transmitted down through the exhaust.
If you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from, it might make it easier to diagnose.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 12
From: Ford, WA
when the 302 in my old 86 bronco had a rod knock, you couldn't hear it at idle either.. hardly knew it was knocking, except when it was between shifts.. while the engine RPM's were coming down..when the engine was "floating" ..
however when the engine was started on a cold day, it would knock loud as hell for about a second when first started "Knocka, knocka, knocka"...you could also barely hear it when revving the engine..I ran it for years like this.. finally blew the #7 rod through the oil pan while climbing a long 6% grade.. that 302 had over 235,000 miles on it when it blew..and it was still running even after the rod blew..i showed it some respect and just shut it down after it blew.. instead of revving the **** out of it until it totally grenaded like most others do..
however when the engine was started on a cold day, it would knock loud as hell for about a second when first started "Knocka, knocka, knocka"...you could also barely hear it when revving the engine..I ran it for years like this.. finally blew the #7 rod through the oil pan while climbing a long 6% grade.. that 302 had over 235,000 miles on it when it blew..and it was still running even after the rod blew..i showed it some respect and just shut it down after it blew.. instead of revving the **** out of it until it totally grenaded like most others do..
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 0
From: Smithfield N.C.
I am replacing a U code 3.0 at work right now for the same problem. I found it had a knock after it warmed up to normal temperature. Upon dissasemby I found a bad wristpin on the piston connecting rod. It is a service vehicle so with 181,000 miles and a 04 model. I just set the reman engine in place before I called it a day. tomorrow I will re-install all the accessories and start it up. I hope this isn't your problem. I would purchase a stethescope from a parts store and listen on the exhaust manifold at each cylinder to see if you can pin point the location of the knock. Could have replaced the part but with the mileage on the truck it just made sense to replace it with a new engine with a 3 year unlimited mile warrenty.