The temp sensors for the snorkel I have messed with actually modulate the flapper valve. In other words, there are mid positions it can be in. You can pry the plastic cap off the top and play with the sensor and see how it works. There is even an adjustment screw on it that you can experiment with. I have had them fail to work, pulled the plastic off and fool around with it, and they start working usually.

You also need to get the vacuum lines on the sensor in the right place(supply and the flapper). It won't work right if they are swapped. I have never actually figured out what the plastic valve thing is that is usually inline with the vacuum line going to the flapper valve. I do not know if it's a orifice or what, but it seems to work ok if you don't have it there.

 

The bi-metallic sensor is what controls vacuum to the vacuum motor (the little round device right above the flapper) that operates the "flapper". Some air cleaners have a CWM between the 2 and some don't.

It's the vacuum motor that I need but "air filter vacuum motor" doesn't seem to ring a bell with the parts guys, so it probably has some other fancy name that I haven't been able to come up with. I know it is bad because applying manifold vacuum will not pull the "flapper" up.

 

You need the actuator to lift and lower the flap?

What truck/engine? I'll see if I can dig up a part number.

 

1984, F-150, 4X4, 351W.
Thanks for looking.

 

E2TZ-9A626-E

 

I used a performance air filter similiar to the one you provided an ebay link to. My top is solid and not made of filter media like that one. I did a bunch of performance upgrades too though. I didnt think the factory snorkel was going to be sufficient. I could have been wrong, but , it looks really mean when you pop the hood and see it there.

 

I usually have some air cleaners laying around from other projects, and I usually just drill the rivets out on both aircleaners, and swap the whole snorkel over with the good actuator in it if the aircleaners are different. This is mostly with the aluminum air cleaners Ford seemed to use on everything in the late 70's and early 80's. You might be able to find one in the junkyard. Most of them will swap right over(the whole thing). This is a easy way also to make one of the dual snorkel aircleaners the other guys are talking about. The aluminum aircleaners are very easy to cut and modify. They look good too if you clean them up a little bit.

 

The part number I referenced is for the whole duct/valve/motor assembly. Parts voice says there are a couple out there but I'm with Franklin here. Go to the JY and grab one from there.

 

Looks like Junk Yard it is!!!!

Thanks

 

Don't need to replace the whole 9A626 assembly for the Vacuum motor. It was sold separately as well.

Vacuum Motor...
D7TZ-9D612-B: Brown Stripe mark
D7TZ-9D612-A: Yellow Stripe mark

etc...

 

Cool.

I'm still learning how to use the parts book...

 

Yeah, me too. Wish that thing was searchable. Have considered buying Adobe Acrobat just so I can make it so. If I print a page I can scan it back in and it is then searchable, but that would be a lifetime project, not to mention the cost.

 

Ok, -A for 2bbl and -C for 4bbl.

 

So that means my 2bbl. 351 should take the "A" or yellow stripe, right?

 

Yes. But only the 1982 Mustang 5.0 air cleaner will work with your carburetor. 1982 was the first year the Ford Mustang used the twin-snorkel air cleaner, and that car also used a Motorcraft 2150 2V carburetor. This air cleaner is smaller and more "dome" shaped and the air cleaner lid sticker will read: "5.0 Liter H.O."



From 1983 - 1985, Ford replaced the Motorcraft 2150 2V carburetor with the Motorcraft/Holley 4180 4V and used a larger twin-snorkel air cleaner to fit the bigger carburetor. It is the same air cleaner used on the Ford trucks with the 351 4V and 460 engine with an additional snorkel added to the air cleaner base. This air cleaner is larger and flatter and the air cleaner lid sticker will read: "5.0 Liter 4V H.O."