I had read on another site that adaptor plate on the 6.0 has a lip on the back of it that contacts the timing gear and is bolted to the crankshaft with 6 12mm bolts wich are torqued to 100 ft.lbs. the center of the adapter does not contact the crank, so when torque is applied to the bolts, it distorts the adapter. the adapter is than finish ground to the proper dimensions which means it can never be removed, If it is removed, the crank is scrap. If there is enough distortation from engine torque, oil can leak thru there. I am courious as I had my adaptor replaced and then I had the complete engine torn down to fix a leak from the upper craddle and I am now going through the DSB process. If this is true it is more ammo that I can use to get a truck replacement or a buy back. thanks
Brian

 

We have had some rear oil leaks in the field and have, in fact, had some complete engines returned to us for rear oil or seal leaks and have not been able to verify leakage on any of them. And, it appears that when the seal and rear cover are properly installed (we had some assembly concerns, on early production engines that have been eliminated) they don't leak.
Now to answer your question. If that hub that is held on with the six 12 mm bolts has been removed, at the very least, they owe you a new crankshaft. Even if the hub was not removed but the bolts were removed, it is a no no.
Since we have addressed those assembly concerns, the rear oil leaks have gone away (as far as I know).

 

Just to make sure I am talking about the same part as you are, I am talking about the rear adaptor plate that the transmision Bell housing bolts too on the back of the motor
thanks
Brian

 

In your first post you described perfectly the hub that attaches to the rear of the crankshaft that the flywheel bolts to and provides a seal surface for the rear seal to ride on. In your second post you described the rear cover that the transmission bolts to and where the rear seal is pressed into.
The six 12 mm bolts refers to the thread size and not the bolt head size. The bolt head size on the six 12 mm bolts that hold the hub on is 18 mm. The thread size that holds the rear cover on is 8 mm with a 12 mm head. That may be where the confusion lies.

 

In my first post I was just copying what a member had posted on another site"diesel stop" What my question is in simple terms is. "is the part that I wrote about in the first post of this thread the same as or differnt than the adaptor plate that bolts the transmission to the block? that is the adaptor plate that I had to have replaced because they told me there was a hole in the plate from a bad casting job. I wasnt sure if the author of the my first post that I copied was talking about the transmission adaptor plate or another part. If it is a differnt part do you think they had to remove it to do the work that they did? Also when it went in the second time for the same bell housing oil leak. They said it was comming from the upper craddle area where the crank shaft rides and they took the whole lower part of the motor off to fix it. It was in the shop for a total of 28 days and I am now trying to get a new truck either from the dealer of through DSB. No luck yet though
thanks
Brian

 

The adapter that bolts or adapts the transmission is a different part than the hub talked about in your first post. That transmission adapter (rear cover) should be relatively easy to replace (even with the engine in the vehicle). There is a high pressure pump cover that seals to the top of the rear cover that requires a dab of RTV in the corners where the block, rear cover and H/P pump cover all come together. And, there is a rubber O-ring type seal that seals the bed plate (lower half of the main bearing saddles) to the block. The area where that bed plate seal and rear cover come together also requires a dab of RTV to ensure a good seal. Otherwise, there should be no reason why those fixes would not cure your oil leaks. Is it still leaking? How is it running now?

 

To be quite honest it is running real good. so now I am confused. I dont know if I should still pursue a new truck or not. In your opinion do you think if they did what they had to do to fix my truck dont you think that once you break apart a new motor that all the gaskets will never reseat the right way and I am sure to get more oil leaks? I would like to barter with them and see if I am willing to keep the truck if they would be willing to put in the new c95 injectors for free so I dont have to worry about the injector issue. do you think that would be reasonable?

 

Well, I don't really think that oil leakage is much of a concern on this engine assuming the gaskets were in their proper places when it was put back together. Keep in mind that the problem originated as a result of a casting defect that was NOT caught at the factory so if your assumption is that the factory does a better job of manufacturing this engine than anybody else can, that idea is pretty much blown out of the water by the fact that a defect that was there at the point of manufacture, slipped through the system and had to be repaired (successfully, I might add) at the dealer level. I'd say if it is performing the way it should and not leaking oil, you've got a winner.
I'd hold off on the C95 injectors to see if 1) they cure the problem and 2) if yours need to be replaced. If your C94 injectors function satisfactorilly, leave them alone but if even one of them goes bad, have them all replaced with C95's. (Just my opinion.)

 

The first oil leak was suppossed to be from a casting problem. The second was from the upper craddle were the upper and lower half of the block bolt together. It dosnt matter now when I got home today I found it leaking oil through the bell housing for the third time and now it will most certain qualify as a lemon. It was already 28 days in the shop and with this new leak it will put it over the required 30 days in calif for lemon law. also it is now leaking from the oil pan too and I can see were when they put it back together they used a liquid gasket or something. There is no way in hell im keeping a $43,000 truck that is supper glued together and has been in the shop more days than in my driveway.
Brian

 

They obviously got something back together wrong. This engine should be the most leak-free engine we've ever built. If you can nail them on the lemon law, go for it. You must have gotten one of the early built engines to have had this much trouble with it.

 

Build date was 12/12/02 indy the dealer should give me a new truck. wonder if I should wait for the 2004 to come out. I heard that they dont have the dual visors though and I want those