The recent back and forth between Tugly and Cletus got me thinking. I've been buying and adding things to my truck because they “seemed” like a good idea or because others here had done it and had good results. Problem is I haven't really been working toward a set goal. Some of it was necessary i.e. worn bushings and steering components but I also own a “Big Boost” waste gate device, DUH!
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So I figured I need to set a goal and work towards it. Goal is to make sure the engine has what it needs to last, run cooler and easier, and efficiently. I’m not shooting for massive power, just reliability and MPG.

The help I need from the Brotherhood is what to look for. I own AE and figure the first thing I need to check is HPOP pressure. How do I do this? What am I looking for and when? At crank, idle, accel or WOT. What else do I need to monitor to make sure the engine is healthy

I have a Melling LPOP ready to go in because at start my oil press needle and light are slow to move and go out. Pretty sure the old one is worn.

I have an EBPV delete pedestal(not installed). It’s not cold in GA and I want to eliminate one more oil leak potential.

When I pull the turbo to change the pedestal I plan to go under the VC to check torques, do the $.50 mod, check Glow plug resistance. Will clean all boots and tubes and replace any that need it. Would like to do bellowed uppies but it’s just not in the budget right now.

I have a 4” turbo back no muffler exhaust in the box but am watching Tugly’s thread to see if the consensus is it’s a good idea or not. I thought originally that anything that would help the motor breathe would be good but now I’m wondering if its best since I’m running stock everything.

I have a 6637 but no air dam so I guess I need something to separate the intake from the engine compartment air. Working on that.

I live near Jody and plan on talking to him about econo tunes.

Sorry for the loooong post but I want to approach this from a little more organized direction and know you guys can help me. Any and all suggestions, comments and criticisms welcome.

Thanks,

 

Have already cleaned EBP tube and new sensor(broke the other ...GRR)

New ICP, oil in the old plug.

No suggestions on what parameters to check using AE??

 

Well, if you're looking for MPG's and are planning on getting a chip/tuner (which WILL boost your MPG except for a heavy foot), you will definitely want to have the exhaust done.

Some small things you can do is to put on a high pressure oil crossover hose (HPX) for about $75...this will balance the oil pressure across the heads, make the engine run smoother, quieter, and more efficient. Same thing goes for a fuel rail crossover (FrX), but they're about $180 from Clay.

Changing out your fuel lines from the tank to the pump with worm clamps will likely help too. Why? Because the quick disconnect lines on there from the factory tend to suck air into the lines, which makes the truck louder and less efficient. Doing an "in tank" modification is smart as well...you could probably do ALL of this for about $60 and 4 hours or so of labor.

Other MPG issues are to not lift the truck, drive stock or thinner-than-stock tires, use "road tires" and not all-terrains.

Up pipes. Here's the deal...if you have leaking up pipes, then you need to fix them as you're losing boost and running inefficiently. I am convinced this is the reason my truck ("HIS") is getting terrible mileage. I know I have leaking uppies, but haven't fixed them yet. There's a $10 fix that can work with new donut gaskets, or there's the $500 "bellowed up pipes" fix.

For $8, you can remove your air intake heater element (AIH) and replace it with a plug. Heck, you can do it for about $4 with the Dodge plug. It's restricting airflow through your spider pipes.

Lastly, you may want to replace all six of your IC boots (CAC) if you think they may be leaking. This can be as cheap as $100 from Clay at Riff Raff, or $220 from Bob at Dieselsite (worth every penny).

Sounds like you have a bad case of PMS (Powerstroke Modification Syndrome). Don't worry, it only gets worse. Embrace it.

 

I'll save you some time.. The $10 donut uppipe fix is a ****.. do it right the first time. I have never seen a set last. It's redundant to do all that work and not do it right.

The 4 inch exhaust will make a big difference. I always noticed a difference on all my 7.3's with an exhaust.. Your engine is a glorified air pump.. air coming in must go out.

 

Looks like I've done some of the right things so far.
AIH delete and FRX done.

Will need to look into the HPX. I understand it gives the PCM a better look at the pressure but how does it help the engine??

I don't see any soot at the lower end of the uppies but think it's leaking behind the turbo. I can smell it and the engine bay is sooty on the right side. haven't chased it down since I knew I was taking the turbo off. Will I have to loosen the ups at the lower end to remove the turbo??

I already have the materials for the in tank mods so it's on the list. Didn't think about the quick disconnects so I'm glad you told me.

I'm making about 15 psi at wot which is a little low from what I've been reading here but figured that was from the exhaust leak. I have the stuff to make a leak tester for the boots but suspect they're pretty good. Gonna check em when I pull everything apart to change the pedestal. Clay will get an order if any don't look right.

I'm willing to sacrifice just a little when it comes to tires. I'm going to go with a mildly aggressive AT like a Michelin LTX AT2 or Hankkok Dynapro. I do hunt and get to use 4x4 a couple of times a yr so it's a trade off I'm willing to make. I will keep em pumped up as high as I can and still stand the ride.


Is the donut fix the Felpro gaskets. Do they go on the lower or upper end of the pipes? Can you tell I've never had this apart before??

Thanks for the input and keep it coming. I only want to have to take stuff apart once if I can help it.

 

The HPX equalized the oil in the heads. SOTP is nothing.. but I have one.. haha

You will not have to loosed the uppies at the manifolds. Just at the collector (baby's butt). Which is where the gaskets are.

Once the turbo is off you will be able to easily see if you have an exhaust leak.

If you are gonna pull the pedestal you will really see!

Good luck!

 

I did the cheap route and installed the Chevy exhaust gaskets. I don't recall the part number but picked them up from Napa for a coupel bucks.

 

Thanks Stemo for the pic. Now I get it.

Any one have recommendations for which parameters I need to ck using AE to determine overall health of the motor????

Thanks,

 

Hpop health, cylinder contribution scan, buzz test.

Check out guzzle's site and rhn. Those can show you a ton of helpful stuff.

Roadside Help Network - Mods/Repairs/Maintenance
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/7pt3/Vehic...th%20Check.pdf

Powerstroke Mods and Maintenance

 

THANKS Andrew. That link to Guzzle with the list of sensors to select is exactly what I needed.

Reps at ya for helpin.

 

Subscribing. This is a good one.

 

I did the doughnut fix on a buddies truck. We had the motor pulled so it wasn't bad. I can't imagine how bad it would be still in the truck!

 

It's a major pita!! Trying to keep it all together while getting stuff tight. Plus, bolts breaking off at the collector, worn uppipes (where the donuts go), had 193k at the time.
I have said it before, worth doing the bellows. I spent 300+, all new Ford parts, by the time I did pipes, gaskets, bolts, and new collector. After "easy out" broke off in collector, I said scr** it and bought new one. Not enough PB blaster in the world, and no access to heat wrench.
Lessons learned.

 

Sensors I check whenever I have AE hooked up.

A very important sensor is the EOT (Engine Oil Temp).
I has to work properly for the PCM to accurately adjust SOI (Start of Injection) and fueling.

Select Engine Oil Temp Output on AE. Check before you start the engine and after the vehicle has completly cooled down. Compare it to AIT
(Air Inake Temp). The readings should be very close if both sensors are working properly, and should closely equal underhood temp. Go for a test drive. EOT should slowy rise. At full operating temp EOT should be around 200° give or take 5°. These are my temps on a temperate day, not extremely hot or cold and a 195° t-stat.

MAP Sensor:

Both Manifold Absolute Pressure and Manifold Gauge Pressure are selections you can choose to monitor with AE.

MAP = Ambient Baro Pressure plus Boost Pressure.

MGP = Manifold Absolute Pressre minus Ambient Baro Pressure.

MAP pressure, KOEO or at idle (when there is no boost) should equal ambient baro pressure (14.7 at sea level - less at higher elevations).

MGP is MAP minus ambient baro pressure and will equal boost pressure. With engine off or at idle (no boost) MGP should be zero. The PCM reads ambient baro pressure and it subtracts this for MGP reading or what a boost gauge should read.

As an example if you hit 15 psi of boost the MAP would be 29.7 (at sea level). Ambient pressure plus boost pressure. 14.7 + 15 = 29.7

MGP would be 15 PSI or very equally match a boost gauge reading. MAP minus ambient pressure. 29.7 - 14.7 = 15.

Another way to check the MAP sensor without driving and relying on turbo boost is by applying compressed air at the hose going to the MAP sensor. All of the above still holds true. Just consider the applied compressed air as if it were turbo boost.

I have never done it but you should be able to see MAP readings while doing a boost leak test.

EBP Sensor:

With KOEO Exhaust Back Pressure should equal Ambient Baro Pressure. Compare the EBP sensor readings to the MAP readings. They should read the same or very close with KOEO. Pressure sensors vary so seldom match exactly. Go or a drive and the EBPS readings should rise and fall in reaction to throttle input.

If anyone catches an error please let me know so I can edit.

 

Heres the difference between the stock gaskets and the new Felpro Chevy gaskets
So far its been about a year and mine are still in good shape.
It was recommended to me so Ill recommend it to you.... start spraying your bolts with PB Blaster at least a week before you decide to take the turbo off. Do it with the engine hot/warm/cold. I sprayed mine at least twice a day for a week and I had no problems with any of the bolts snapping or being extremly hard to take off.
Put the new exhaust on when you pull the turbo, your going to have to get the down pipe out of the way to tighten up the PS bolts on the collector and line the turbo up anyways. I didnt have a need to loosen the bolts on the manifold to uppipes, and I had no issues with not doing that.
I cut up a piece of plywood to lay over the top of the engine so I could be kinda comfortable without everything poking me in the sides the whole time.
I have a box around my 6637 that I made from the specs I got from one of the brothers here, I wouldnt label that as any kind of priority, its fine how you have it. I did it because I didnt like the way under my hood looked.
Before...

After...

Now is also a good time for you to look at the orange boots on the intake to make sure they dont look like this when you pull them

Due to that I was only able to make 15psi boost at WOT in any tune I have and stock I was at 15psi too!! Normal for our trucks is 15-17 psi boost, which is why I didnt put any thought into it when I was stock tuned.
Sorry for the long post but hopefully it helps ya out