I will also suggest the pole building.

40x60 or 40x80 with 14' side walls.

I have a pole building for a shop, and it isn't nearly what I want(size wise), but it was already here when we moved in. I did pour the floor and put tube in for floor heat down the road.

 

Starting to think I am not supposed to reply, this will be the third time...

I plan on putting a hoist in right away, so was going to set the mounting studs into the concrete immediately. That way it will mount stronger, as well as help with making sure to stay clear of the heating tubes. My body is telling me I need to do something different if I intend to keep doing this stuff.

My minimum size is 40'x60', been pricing to go 45-50x72, if I can pull that off without going broke.After talking with a few contractors, it seems it isn't that much more expensive to go from 14' to 16' sidewalls. I need to have a minimum 14' high door in the end to accommodate getting a tractor with a cab in the door.

On the floor epoxy, I have checked it out, and that really gets pricey fast, have to make some decisions about that, there will definitely be some kind of protectant, if not epoxy, then sealant. Years ago I worked for a company that went around putting an epoxy on the floors that was guaranteed for 100 years. It also would not be slick when wet. It was tough enough to use for patching holes in the floor too. It was quite pricey even back then.

 

Right there with ya on that one brother......I'm too old to continue crawling on the floor under these old trucks!

 

I am sure you are aware of this already but make sure your concrete is thick enough around the lift.

I am not sure if putting j-bolts in when pouring is as strong as some good hilti anchors or not. Something to look into.

 

Plan on going 6". Thought about making a full anchor plate. Have to look into manufacturer recommendations.

 

Have you looked into a tilt up, concrete building?

I checked it out a few years ago. Ground prep, including drainage system. gravel drive, all utilities insulated metal roof for forty dollars a foot. (may have increased by now.)

 

Never seen any of that type around here, wouldn't even know who to contact about them. From the sounds of it, the floor concrete is going to be over 10,000 by itself, the base building is going to be around 20,000 for just the building, no labor.

 

Yes sir, concrete isn't cheap. Concrete was about $115 a yard when I poured mine a little over 2 years ago.

 

Do a search of contractors in your area that do "tilt up" buildings. It's a great process, wall sections are poured on the site into molds. They they tilt them up with a crane or a loader. It's nice and it's fast.

 

According to the literature I found, the consensus is that for smaller buildings, the tilt-up is not economical. I saw one figure of less than 50,000 sq ft (I could only dream) to less than 5000 sq ft, which still is large for my application. Still also was not able to find anyone in the area doing it.

 

i'm just going to put a plug in for concrete block construction. had it over winter. no heat supplied yet but there was only a couple days it was uncomfortably chilly. whatever size you want just buy more blocks. don't know on cost as i helped my father in law, so labor was paid in FL OZ.

pour footings, build walls, pour floor, roof.

 

Thats a good point. The use of proper sized expansion anchors also guarantees exact placement and alignment for plumb. It's also easier to control depth and, since the lift plates do not have to be raised over the bolts the post installation is a little less labor intensive, which seems to be a concern to the OP.

Power. Bring in plenty and more! I thought I had mine covered with a 40 circuit 200 amp single phase panel and I could hit myself in the head for not doing 3 phase from the beginning. Also, if you are able, bury your utilities. Its nice to not have to worry about overhead clearances for your service entrance.

Floor. Epoxy is great but prohibitively expensive. Make sure your finisher uses a gas trowel and , if he's good, that floor should look close to glass when done. Overtroweling will bring too much cream to the surface. Its a skill refined over time like anything else so you dont want the apprentice practicing on that much surface area. Theres a number of water based sealers that are applied before the concrete cures that do not add a lot of cost. Smooth, properly troweled flat work is much easier to keep reasonably clean than a rough finish.

Air. If you plan to use a lot of impacts, DAs or other pneumatics...theres no such thing as too much air. Plan accordingly and do not use plastic or pex distribution lines. Hard pipe is much safer, the internet is full of bad stories of blown fittings and air lines. At absolute minimum, a two stage 80 gallon oiled compressor should work. Try to stay away from the cheapo rice burners but, frankly, I've had good luck so far with my Husky but the plan was to replace it with a better unit when I could afford it. So far, 2 years of heavy use, although since I mentioned it I'll probably have to replace it this week.

Good luck. I had a great time building mine and wish we could build more for others. Theres no limit to the various ideas that can be built in to a great shop/mancave.

 

A one time set is not a problem to lift over, but in the event the lift should ever be taken out, they would still stick up, could be an issue. Thanks for the tip!

I plan to run it under ground, not real far, but the line would have to go across a lane that has large farm equipment go through, so really not a good idea to go overhead. I'm not sure i have 3 phase supply, being rural residential.

The current leading bid for the building includes sealing the floor, with saw cuts and all. They have an option for roughing the floor with brooms, but not any too interested. Building I use as a shop at the parent's has a roughed floor, impossible to clean thoroughly.

Hadn't stopped to think about plumbing air around, but you are right. I would likely use steel galvanized, not that expensive really, and easy to come by. I have seen the horror stories on PVC, didn't give Pex much thought. I have a compressor coming that will likely do what I need. Currently have a Craftsman that has been doing the full detail for over 10 years.

 

look at the big box stores at the beginning of the year for compressor deals.
i picked up an 80 gallon two stage 8 hp 16 CFM @ 90 psi campbell hausfeld from Lowes for $395 7 years ago. it was a leftover from the year before, and they were blowing them out to bring in the new models.
the SIL picked up a 60 gallon 5 hp unit last month for $280

 

I have a better deal, BIL's father is giving me one, newer motor and pump, about an 80 gallon tank. The Craftsman is a 5 hp 60 gallon I think, but it is one of the noisy airless ones.