Finally own a crew
#257
#258
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#262
Almost got this x member finished. i ran out of weld thru primer and i ordered some big freakin annular cutters for my mag drill. Man, I wish I had an ironworker...someday. I'll get this tacked Sunday and start on the skid plate.
I noticed that my shop floor has nothing, and I mean nothing, in common with Tomahawk's.
Thinking this would be a good spot for bump stops...thats the plan anyway.
I noticed that my shop floor has nothing, and I mean nothing, in common with Tomahawk's.
Thinking this would be a good spot for bump stops...thats the plan anyway.
#263
Great job with the crew cab build. Your work and fabrication skills look great to us FTE members watching builds. I was wondering if you can post part # for the drill and magnetic base you used for drilling the transfer case hanger frame insets. Does the bit for sleeves need a pilot hole or does it bore in one step just slowly with plenty of lube so bit does not burn up. What is the diameter of bit used for most of the sleeves used in the cross member fabrication. Whats the average time to bore with the large diameter bit for sleeves threw the frame Thanks for any information you can provide.
#264
You can pick any drill you like. One thing to remember is they need more than 3/16 of frame thickness to grab a hold and not let go if you push too hard while drilling.
Solution is to just clamp extra plate to the frame giving you approx 1/2" of material for the mag to hold on nice and strong.
I wanted to have a 1/2 ID along with a .120 wall tube so I used a 13/16 annular cutter. This is a bit large but it give me a little wiggle room if my measurements are off a smidge but also let the weld puddle get all the way into the frame for good penetration.
No pre drilling needed. Just hit it with a center punch and make a hole. The cutter has a pilot bit that is just pointed so you can center it over your punch mark.
I spend more time lubing the bit than drilling...it's that fast. You won't want to use a regular drill bit ever again. I promise. No lube time I suppose you could march right through a frame in like 5 seconds.
I got mine about 6 months ago so I'm still learning but it was worth every penny.
USE THE SAFETY STRAP! ,that will at least slow the drill down if the magnet happens to let go.
Solution is to just clamp extra plate to the frame giving you approx 1/2" of material for the mag to hold on nice and strong.
I wanted to have a 1/2 ID along with a .120 wall tube so I used a 13/16 annular cutter. This is a bit large but it give me a little wiggle room if my measurements are off a smidge but also let the weld puddle get all the way into the frame for good penetration.
No pre drilling needed. Just hit it with a center punch and make a hole. The cutter has a pilot bit that is just pointed so you can center it over your punch mark.
I spend more time lubing the bit than drilling...it's that fast. You won't want to use a regular drill bit ever again. I promise. No lube time I suppose you could march right through a frame in like 5 seconds.
I got mine about 6 months ago so I'm still learning but it was worth every penny.
USE THE SAFETY STRAP! ,that will at least slow the drill down if the magnet happens to let go.
#265
Did I happen to mention how much I like my mag drill.
I picked up a few larger bits, I got 1.250/1.5/1.75 and 2.0.
Finished up my new x member and decided I better just tack it in place for now seeins how sometimes things kinda happen in my world and I dont want to have to start over again.
I've had this much done before.
Made the front hangers for the skid. These will be attached to the x member above and support the front end of skid with 9/16th fine thread bolts. I'm using .250 AR for the skid due to the fact that I have 100 4'x4' sheets....that is not a typo.
It's pretty tuff. I hit it with a 454 Casull 325gn. Hornady XTP @ 10 yards to see just how tuff it was.
I picked up a few larger bits, I got 1.250/1.5/1.75 and 2.0.
Finished up my new x member and decided I better just tack it in place for now seeins how sometimes things kinda happen in my world and I dont want to have to start over again.
I've had this much done before.
Made the front hangers for the skid. These will be attached to the x member above and support the front end of skid with 9/16th fine thread bolts. I'm using .250 AR for the skid due to the fact that I have 100 4'x4' sheets....that is not a typo.
It's pretty tuff. I hit it with a 454 Casull 325gn. Hornady XTP @ 10 yards to see just how tuff it was.
#266
#267
#268
It's AR something. I salvaged it from a very high end indoor range. This plate was the ceiling baffles. Right place, right time.
Finished up the front skid bracket today and tacked it so I could actually see how this plate will work out.
You get the idea....I added 2 pieces of DOM through the side holes.
Big ole glop of grease on the oil drain and I know right where to drill that hole. Pretty smart for a dummy, huh?
Looks like I can trim 2.0 from each side and gain a bit more clearance for d shaft and exhaust.
I think I'm going to split the skid at the trans CM...Or maybe right behind it and make a second section to cover the transfer case. Gonna have to sit there a while and figure out how I want to do this.
Finished up the front skid bracket today and tacked it so I could actually see how this plate will work out.
You get the idea....I added 2 pieces of DOM through the side holes.
Big ole glop of grease on the oil drain and I know right where to drill that hole. Pretty smart for a dummy, huh?
Looks like I can trim 2.0 from each side and gain a bit more clearance for d shaft and exhaust.
I think I'm going to split the skid at the trans CM...Or maybe right behind it and make a second section to cover the transfer case. Gonna have to sit there a while and figure out how I want to do this.
#269