Crazy Vibration
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Joined: Sep 2006
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Crazy Vibration
2K f350 7.3 PSD 4x4:
Replaced recently; front-upper and lower balljoints, driver side hub assembly and caliper, gear box, tie rod ends and drag links. I'm sick and tired of the mechs. in my area throwing parts, including Ford.
I just put on a new hub assembly yesterday and noticed that one of the pistons on the caliper was seized. Replaced it, rotor and pads where still good. Every day driving... all of a sudden it starts bouncing down the road like front and rear tires are bad out of line, pulls hard right, "bouncing" down the road. Doesn't matter the speed, throttle, or brakes, it continues to bounce and pull. After parked it does fine, then just picks back up when ever it wants to. One thing I do notice is that it pulls harder right when brakes are applied. Would a seized piston on a caliper cause all this? If not, any suggestions?
Any videos or photos would be appreciated.
Replaced recently; front-upper and lower balljoints, driver side hub assembly and caliper, gear box, tie rod ends and drag links. I'm sick and tired of the mechs. in my area throwing parts, including Ford.
I just put on a new hub assembly yesterday and noticed that one of the pistons on the caliper was seized. Replaced it, rotor and pads where still good. Every day driving... all of a sudden it starts bouncing down the road like front and rear tires are bad out of line, pulls hard right, "bouncing" down the road. Doesn't matter the speed, throttle, or brakes, it continues to bounce and pull. After parked it does fine, then just picks back up when ever it wants to. One thing I do notice is that it pulls harder right when brakes are applied. Would a seized piston on a caliper cause all this? If not, any suggestions?
Any videos or photos would be appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
I doubt seized piston on a caliper would cause the bouncing but it would cause the steering to pull if it was grabbing. It wouldn't be a bad idea to take it for a short drive and then carefully check the temp of your rotors and see if any are hot. If the truck is bouncing around it may be a bad U joint. I would take it down and have the front alignment checked now that you done a ton of front end work just to be sure that you are still aligned as being out of alignment will cause it to pull and I guess if it is out of alignment far enough it could cause it to bounce but to my knowledge it only causes pulling.
Check all your U joints front and back for play and rotors for heat. Compare your rotors as the two front should be about the same temp and so should the back.
Check all your U joints front and back for play and rotors for heat. Compare your rotors as the two front should be about the same temp and so should the back.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 7
From: Snohomish, WA
A couple of years ago, my 2000 was doing the same bouncing and pulling. When I brought the truck to a complete stop and started going again it was fine until I used my brakes again. I ended up replacing both front calipers with new pads and had the rotors turned and that cured it. Now the left rear caliper is sticking, I checked the slide pins and they looked ok, so I am going to put new calipers on the back with new rotors and pads. I also just flushed my brake fluid yesterday because it was looking pretty bad. To sum it up, a frozen front caliper caused it to bounce and pull. The only way I found out the rear caliper was sticking was the brakes smoking and getting the rear hub very hot!
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
Interesting! I haven't heard of calipers causing bouncing before, so good to know. I've had a caliper freeze up on me though and it was my rear caliper. This is generally caused by rust and misc debris building up in the caliper over time which is another reason why brake line flushes are important. Besides being hygroscopic, any debris that does manage to get into your line would get flushed out.
So there be your answer. Give it a look and let us know
So there be your answer. Give it a look and let us know
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 7
From: Snohomish, WA
Seems like I've heard to always replace both sides if you need to replace one of the sides! Makes sense to me if one of the calipers was freezing up, the other side is probably not far behind. Good luck and I hope that helps!
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 1
From: Northern Idaho
Agreed, when I replaced the rear drivers side I checked the difference in temp between the rear right and left. The right was then warmer than the left (the one I replaced) so I proceeded to replace the right and now they remain about the same temp and both calipers retract properly. So I would have to agree that replacing them both is good practice and the best way to stay safe. I know at Napa you can get remained calipers for about 60 bucks each.
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