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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:13 PM
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Hey I'm sixteen my dad bought me a 1952 f1 we're going to turn it into a hot rod I know you can use a mustang II front end, my question is we want to go with a ford engine ford transmission and ford front and rear end, can we just take everything out of a 1990's ford mustang? also, i am going to save the rear fenders but the front fenders are in really bad shape, we found some fiberglass front fenders, are they worth the cost? and what gauge sheet metal do i need to use to patch holes in the body? i am looking to trade or sell the original drive train out of this truck if anyone is interested let me know.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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It would help if you post where you are at - folks would know right away if it is worth their time and $$$ (like me!)

Welcome aboard!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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I am using 16 gauge metal to make patch panels for my 50 F1. Seems about the same thickness as the rest of the body.


On the Mustang, I would think the rear end would be too narrow, but don't know for sure. As far as the engine and trans, remember that any computer, sensors, etc. would need to be swapped over too.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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16ga metal is the thickness you need. As for the suspension, you can get a MII kit and put a 9" rear end out of a 57-72 F100. The disk brake kit for the front would need to have a 5x5.5 bolt pattern in order to match the rear 9". You can also go with an 8.8 rear end out of an Explorer, but it's a bit narrow. Also consider a Jag IFS and IRS. These are getting popular and are almost a bolt it conversion. The width is just right.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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The engine and transmission from a 90's Mustang would be a good fit, but the rest of the parts; suspension, rear, etc., won't work so good. Any front suspension that uses Macpherson-type struts isn't a good donor, due to installation difficulties. I was 15 when I got my first F-1, a 1950 model. I installed a 289 and C4 auto trans with the truck 9" mentioned above. I got it running and driving dependably in time for my senior year in high school. That sure was fun and I had a huge feeling of accomplishment. I stayed with the stock front end, but that was long before all the great suspension kits available today. If you're going to change the front suspension, get a good kit and install that. Don't try to graft in the original MII parts. They're way too narrow and the tiny brakes are sub standard. The kits have been engineered to fit correctly into your truck and upgraded for safety. If that's the direction you want to go, they're worth the money. But you can do just fine by staying with the original axle, too. Just make sure everything is in good shape and safe.

If your front fenders are really bad and rusty, fiberglass replacements will be as cheap or cheaper than trying to fix them, unless you can fabricate sheet metal and weld in patches. They aren't perfect and may need some massaging to have fit correctly, but they can be a good way to get you on the road quickly and easily.

Good luck with your project.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 12:03 AM
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Hey Noah,
Welcome Aboard & congratulations on getting your first truck!
Lot's of good questions. My son Zack & I are enjoying our 1950 F1 a lot.
We have fiberglass fenders on our truck - they are suprisingly thick & we haven't had any issues with them. They aren't plug & play like you may be used to - You have to massage them a bit to get all the gaps down to fit. Post pics when you get a chance. Good luck over there!

Ben in Austin
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 12:12 AM
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Just wanted to welcome you to the site Noah, your in the right place.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 01:00 AM
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Hey Noah,

Another welcome from California! I went with fiberglass fenders both front and rear. Metal would have been nice, but I wanted to move the project along a little. I did have to clean up the fiberglass and work on the fit between the upper and lower fender pieces, but overall, they came out looking pretty good.

By the way....everybody here loves truck pics....when you get a chance post a couple.

Oh....and here's a hot-rod idea (a 351 Windsor and a C6 automatic trans):

 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 01:36 AM
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Welcome from AZ... You have found a great place to get all kinds of information about these old trucks... Just so you know that sometime you hear one of the Purest get mad at us Darksiders... Just remember that even old Henry kept tinkering and improving each Ford he built....
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:47 AM
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Another welcome.
A question that needs to be asked: at 16 do you have the funds and/or expertise available to match your desires? An MII kit will set you back ~ 2000.00 alone and require quite a bit of precise fabrication and welding skills. The MII crossmember also makes an engine swap difficult with Ford engines due to to oil pan interference.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM beam front axle that a rebuild can't fix, and it's a lot easier to rebuild than replace.
To answer your question, no the front and rear directly out of a mustang will not work, they are too narrow and would still require an aftermarket crossmember and modifying the R&P steering.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Welcome to FTE. Sounds like a great project. We love pictures so post some when you can. Unless you are proficient with fuel injection and computer driven engines and transmissions I would select an older engine and transmission for your project and use a carburetor. I'm using an 85 302 and FMX transmission in my 49 F-1...
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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Not all MII kits have to be welded. I have a Chassis Engineering bolt-in kit. Price tag of the entire kit (with Heidts components) was just under 2 grand. They ain't cheap!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 12:31 PM
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Doc, didn't the frame rails require boxing?

Old Dan,
are those tubes going across the motor mounts or is the engine just sitting on the crossmember? Do you have a side view picture?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Doc, didn't the frame rails require boxing?

?
Nope. It's another selling point of that crossmember. It completely envelopes the frame. The whole shooting match requires 38 3/8" inch bolts. I wore a drill out and thought my arm was gonna fall off by the time I got it installed. Reed1951 has one too.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Noah, what part of In. are you from, I have a upper passenger side fender 51/52 fiberglass, PM me, make you a good deal, Garry
 
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