here is a post that includes a12v neg ground wiring diagram on pg1.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4495640

I think what you are calling a ceramic relay is actually the ignition dropping resistor, the starter solenoid is the starter "relay". the resistor should not be wired in series with the starter solenoid.
I bet you have combined the wiring for the 6V pos grnd, and the 12V neg ground conversion resulting in something being shorted directly to ground. Don't use any of the original 6V wiring devices, switches, relays, etc unless you are sure you are reversing the grounds.

 

My first stop would be double checking the wire running to the starter button.

Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the EZWire harness use positive voltage to activate the starter relay? The factory starter buttons use ground to activate it.

 

I think I would not use the starter button and use a ignition switch instead and follow the ezwire instructions. Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Instructions - INST-3260-EZ.pdf Autozone carries this switch part number LS464 $13.99

 

if you used a starter button, you would have to design a ground driven relay to interface to the new harness which works of positive voltage as mentioned.

Sam

 

Thanks Sam - I guess, I know that makes sense to most people, but I'm sorta special when it comes to wiring so I'm in a fog. I want to use the push button start still so is there any way you or anybody else could be a little more directive on how to do so. Right now I have the purple (labeled ignition switch start that goes to the S small post on solenoid) and black (which is factory paired with the red hooked to the switch labeled ignition switch power) wires hooked to the button (tech guy at EZ wire instructed me to do this).

 

The push button I took off my 55 shorted to ground when pushed, having only 1 wire, thus my recommendation..

I would start with two tests

1. using ONLY the wire to the S terminal, I would apply power direct from the battery.. the engine should turn over.
2. using a test light at the push button, test if the button causes the test light to light, ONLY when pressed.

there isn't much power used to trip the solenoid.. so in both cases there should be no risk of melting copper or wire insulation..

I have a pull to start ignition switch.. takes hot in, and fires the starter when pulled all the way out.

Sam

 

I'm using the purple wire labeled ignition switch start that goes to the S small post on the solenoid for the neutral safety switch.

 

Does your starter relay have only one small post? And is one large post wired to the starter and does the other large post have several wires attached?

If all the above are true, your starter relay will energize when you push the starter button only if that button has only one wire going between it and the small post on the relay. That type of relay uses the ground from the starter button to energize the relay. It makes no difference if that ground is positive or negative, it is ground. That means the large post opposite the large post going to the starter will have the other polarity on it directly from the battery... negative in a positive ground system, or positive in a negative ground system.

This set up has only one wire on the starter button, and it is never connected to the ignition switch. If I understand correctly, you have that starter button connected to the ignition switch. That's creating a direct short from the power on the ignition switch to ground, and is melting your wire.

Even with the ignition key OFF, when this is wired correctly, the starter will turn when you push the starter button. The ignition switch will allow the engine to run, as when it is turned ON, it provides power to the coil. Off = no power to the coil. But the starter will turn (make sure you're in neutral).

If your starter relay has two small posts, disregard everything you just read, and ask someone else.

 

Dis-regarding as you requested....good read though, thanks for trying! Yep she's got to large posts and two small.

 

Since I don't know your relay. I have a ford relay to relate to.
1. WE need to figure out your relay. If you have a meter, put on ohns and on one of the large relay nuts. Touch all the other three and see if you read anything. Nothing is good. Now read across the two small one, should read ohms. Touch the two large, nothing is good. We have decided the two large are open waiting on the relay to close. The two small read ohms as they are the coil of the relay. Attach the battery to a large and the starter to the other large. Run a small wire from the large battery relay connection to one of the small relay connections. It doesn't make any differance which one. Next need to figure out if the start button closes when pushed. Put a ohm meter across the two contacts. If you see ohms when pushed it is good. Run one wire from the push button to ground and the other contact to the remaining contact on the relay.
Now the start switch. you should have battery voltage to the switch and out in the run position to the resister to the + on the coil. 12vdc should handle the voltage drop during start with no problem. No other wires in the start circuit needed. Remember when you go to run, start the truck. Don't leave the switch in the run position wirhout starting the truck. chuck

 

I'm traveling for work all week so won't be able to try all of your suggestions and pointers until Saturday morning. I'll definitely let you know how it goes.

 

thanks sir mam sir

credit to Julie/Dan

 

Thanks everybody.... I did find the ignition problem, it was two things. First there was a ground on the S post of the solenoid then I had the wire from the solenoid going through the ceramic resister instead of going directly to the coil.

Now on to the lights and heater.

 

Glad you got that step out of the way. So it's running now?

 

Yep and she sure sounds good. Thanks