Agreed, pressure is pressure; but could the difference of heat and duration have any effect?

 

OK, so am I the only one who noticed that he only used his cap pressure tester on the old, supposedly bad caps? He didn't put it on one of the new caps to show what the pressure would be.

How do we know the tester was any good? How much stock does he have in the auto parts store he was schilling?

I'm not saying he's wrong. I don't know. It'd be interesting if everyone who read this thread that had a pressure tester would test their caps and tell us the result.

When listening to the guy, my gut tells me he's 90% full of ****. Just by the way he talks he's way too full of himself. It doesn't mean he's wrong, however, and he does have a point that it's a 5 dollar cap. If I can figure out how to read the part number off of that video, I'll order the Stant cap from Amazon.

 

Stant 10238, page magnifier.

Stant Part 10238

Amazon.com: Stant 10238 Radiator Cap - 16 PSI: Automotive

 

I don't see what the big deal is. He never says that the cap is the actual cause of any issue. He simply questioned it based off what he's found over the years and since the cap is so cheap, then why not spend the $5-$10 for insurance.

 

My thought exactly.

-Mike

 

What Bill isn't saying is that a degas bottle cap is different than a radiator cap.

With a radiator cap, the liquid expansion pressurizes the radiator cap to the design pressure of the cap and then it relieves. The coolant system is maintained under pressure due to the back pressure of the radiator cap.

With a degas bottle cap, the pressure is generated ONLY by liquid exansion due to the temperature rise - acting upon the amount of vapor space left in the degas bottle. The increasing liquid volume reduces the vapor space and a pressure rise results as the vapor is compressed.

I have a pressure gauge on my degas bottle and I typically run 6-8 psig, unless I am hammering on the accelerator.

Single most important thing????
NOT - LOL.

 

Mark, original cap or have you replaced yours?

 

This guy must know something. I need to call him for my EOT delta with my ECT. Need my oil cooler replaced and I am near to his place. He posted a lot of good info on the net, he must know something on these trucks. What he explained is not Nasa science, it is simple explanations based on his eperiences with the Poorstroke. He probably push it a bit, but according to his saying, he worked on he 6.0 for a while, experiencing with a few ambulance trucks.

 

I replaced mine a long time ago Bill, when Ford first published info about weak caps (this was before I had a pressure gauge on the degas tank).

As far as him knowing his "stuff", I respect the Techs on here 1000 times more. They offer sound technical advice - none of which is slanted to sell services and parts ...............

As I said earlier - IMO he is way off base with his perspective on systems with degas tanks. The PCM begins to defuel engines that see coolant temps above 221 *F anyway. A healthy engine will not be past 220 IMO and 230 is WAY HIGH..

 

bismic: Isn't that what a cap does during each heat cycle?

I hate to admit it, but this guys video makes some sense to me. I can certainly point to a lot of other parts where Ford has cut corners, so it makes sense to me that the cap is a little weak.

-Mike

 

Could he be talking about your EGR coooler going bad overpressurizing the reservoir. It is hard to believe someone that have a big Ego, but this guy can not be all the way wrong.

 

The cap shouldn't ever relieve. They are set to relieve at 16 psig and if it doesn't relieve, it won't weaken. If your system is healthy and the coolant level is at the minimum line, you will not ever generate pressures high enough to relieve.

I agree that the early caps were weak. That is why many people got nervous and thought they had head gasket failures - signs of puking. Many of them simply had weak caps. No other damage occurred with the weak caps though - at least not to folks that had properly working water pumps and fans, and didn't have coolant system blockages (in the radiator and in the coolant flow paths).

 

Thanks Mark, Will be picking one up @ A/Z tonight on my way home from work.....

 

I just changed my Degas bottle cap today,,Before I saw this video,,,new one from Ford was $10 and change,,,Old cap started to make a Whistle like sound(Have a thread here about it),Started making the noise in Novemer,,,Just recently was getting more and more frequent,,,I just found out 2/19/12 where the sound was coming from,,,changed it today,,,All is Good now,,No more whistle or puking,,my ECT/EOT are only 4-6 degree delta's,,watching them today,,,I am still learning about these 6.0's,,and so far mine has been a Good one 67k now and just a FICM and a Degas bottle cap so far.

I kinda think this Guy has a valid point about these Caps,,,and Besides,,,,is only $5-10 bucks !!

 

lower pressure does mean lower boiling point. that lower boiling point definitely would increase the likelihood of coolant boiling in the EGR cooler. the metal beside the resulting gas pocket can then get much hotter than the coolant(like exhaust temp hot) that causes egr coolers to burst and cause issues. also higher than coolant temp temps in the cooler increase the likelihood of coolant forming solid particulates that then plug oil coolers. any of you guys ever had an oil cooler get plugged. yup I thought there might be one or two of you. can i say for sure nope I can't but I for sure am going to go check my cap and have it tested. pressure as any boiler engineer can tell you is directly related to temperature. simple enough to find out what the correct pressure should be at 195. now if we all test our caps and they are good, he is full of BS, however if many of them fail, we have to start asking if it is part of the chain of failure.