squeeky front end passenger side
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Junior User
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squeeky front end passenger side
squeek, squeek is all I hear from the passenger front end, am I looking at some worn out bushings and if so where and how hard and how long does it take to repair.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 206
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From: Yorktown, NY
It would be a little more helpful if you could describe the squeak, and tell us a little bit more about the truck.......
If your diagnosis is correct, it's pretty easy to confirm, just use your ear........
As far as repair it's not too hard,
Shock Bushings: To tell you the truth, if it's stock i'd just change out the shock, (easy)
Ball Bearings:
Wheel Bearing Inspection
Removal
Using the Seal Replacer, Threaded Drawbar and the Bearing Cup Replacer, install the seal.
If your diagnosis is correct, it's pretty easy to confirm, just use your ear........
As far as repair it's not too hard,
Shock Bushings: To tell you the truth, if it's stock i'd just change out the shock, (easy)
Ball Bearings:
Wheel Bearing Inspection
- Raise the vehicle until the tire is off the floor.
- NOTE: Make sure the wheel rotates freely and the brake pads are retracted sufficiently to allow movement of the tire and wheel assembly. Grasp each front tire at the top and bottom and move the wheel inward and outward while lifting the weight of the tire off the front wheel bearing.
- If the tire and wheel (hub) is loose on the wheel spindle or does not rotate freely, perform one of the following actions.
Removal
- Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
- Remove the brake disc.
- Remove the front wheel hub nut.
- Remove the cotter pin.
- Remove the retainer.
- Remove the front wheel hub nut.
- If equipped with 4-wheel anti-lock brake system, remove the brake disc shield.
- Remove the bolt.
- Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor.
- CAUTION: Do not overextend CV joints and boots when removing the hub and bearing assembly. NOTE: The CV joint is a slip fit into the wheel hub and bearing. A puller will not normally be required. Remove the wheel hub.
- Remove the bolts.
- Push the CV joint inboard. Remove the wheel hub.
- Remove the seal.
- Install the seal.
Using the Seal Replacer, Threaded Drawbar and the Bearing Cup Replacer, install the seal.
- Install the wheel hub
- Position the wheel hub on the front wheel driveshaft and joint and into the front wheel knuckle.
- Install the bolts.
- If equipped with 4WABS, install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
- Position the front brake anti-lock sensor.
- Install the bolt.
- Install the brake disc shield.
- Position the brake disc shield.
- Install the bolts.
- Install the front axle hub nut.
- Install the retainer.
- Stall the cotter pin.
- Install the brake disc.
- WARNING: When the wheel is installed, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material present on the mounting surfaces of the wheels or the surfaces of the wheel hub, brake drum or brake disc that contact the wheel. Installing Wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounding surfaces can cause the wheel nut to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control. Clean the wheel hub and mounting surfaces.
- Install the tire and wheel assembly.
- Lower the vehicle.
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Junior User
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Thanks for the reply, forgot to mention that I have a 2000 2wd 4.6 liter. I had already changed out the front shocks, and wheel bearings. If I push down on the bumper on the passenger side you can hear the squeeking, like maybe the ball joint or the control arms at the pivot points. Are there bushings at the pivot points? Should I just get new factory control arms with the ball joints already in place?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 206
Likes: 1
From: Yorktown, NY
Thanks for the reply, forgot to mention that I have a 2000 2wd 4.6 liter. I had already changed out the front shocks, and wheel bearings. If I push down on the bumper on the passenger side you can hear the squeeking, like maybe the ball joint or the control arms at the pivot points. Are there bushings at the pivot points? Should I just get new factory control arms with the ball joints already in place?
Yes, there are bushings at the "pivot points", personally I'd just buy the full assembly that you mentioned, as it will be easier to install, and the chance for error will be to a minimum.
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Junior User
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Well since it is raining all day, I decided to work on the squeeking, pulled both the upper and lower control arms, and found that the lower control arm ball joint was bad, so I decide to just change it all out, new upper and lower control arms and while I was there changed out the outer tie rod put in grease fittings, repacked the wheel bearings. Now I just need to get the front end aligned.
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