When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hey guys, I just got my wife a 2008 F 250 6.4PSD super duty twin turbo.
There seems to a slight vibration in i think with the engine at around 1000 RPM with the truck in park sitting sill. Is this cause for concern. The truck has just over 100k miles.
thanx it's not real bad adn idles fine and smooth. It goes away at around 1200-1300 RPM and you don't feel it at all at high RPM or while driving at hwy speed, only at approx 1000 rpm. and one last thing. when you shut the engine off the turbo doesn't wind down smooth like all the others i've heard. it kind of caughs then winds down smooth.
Last edited by wburge; Feb 15, 2012 at 09:09 AM.
Reason: to make since (spelling errors)
Just bought it, have had it tow days now. I pulled a car fax and it showed all the maint on the truck, has had reg maint. The carfax has no report of any kind under major repairs or problems of any kind. I did not notice these issues at the time of purchase. we had to drive over 300 miles to get back home after buying it.
If you have not owned one of the newer emissions controlled diesels previously, be aware that they are far more dependent on proper maintenance than earlier diesels.
Key 6.4 maintenance items:
Oil changes every 5,000 miles, with quality oil (synthetic recommended), used oil analysis (Blackstone) for every change. Use only Motorcraft oil filters or the Racor (OEM) equivalent.
Fuel filter changes every 10,000 miles. Use only Motorcraft FD4617 or the Racor (OEM) equivalent filters.
Coolant nitrite testing at least every 15,000 miles. I recommend every 10,000 miles at the same time you do the fuel filters for simplicity, the test strips are inexpensive. Do not be confused by the test directions warning not to sample from an overflow tank, the 6.4 does not have an overflow tank it has a degas bottle. The degas bottle is part of the coolant loop with constant circulation so it is a valid testing point. I do not bother "taking a sample", I simply clip the test strip on the end of a long hemostat and dunk it in the degas bottle to test. If the test is below 800ppm and above 300ppm add two bottles of VC-8 additive. If below 300ppm the enture coolant system must be flushed with VC-9 cleaner, rinsed well and refilled with new coolant.
Use a quality fuel conditioner such as the Ford PM-22a/23a conditioners at every fueling. They add lubricity to the fuel, something that ULSD is lacking in which helps protect the high pressure (up to 26,000 PSI) fuel pump. They also help to reduce soot production which results in less frequent DPF regens and less fuel dilution in the engine oil.
Drain the HFCM water separator monthly. The fuel drained can be poured back into the tank carefully leaving behind any water at the bottom of the collection jar (normally very little). If the water separator drain does not flow well or at all, it may be clogged with either parafin blobs or with bacterial growth. In either case at a minimum the drain valve cover needs to be removed and the clog cleared. If the clog is significant the HFCM cover needs to be removed for full cleaning. If the clog is white and waxy it's parafin and not a significant issue. If the clog is brown or similar and more slimy it is bacterial growth and the fuel tank should be "shocked" with a biocide such as Power Service Bio-Kleen which should not be confused with their Deisel-Kleen.
The truck should not be used for all short trips and stop and go traffic. The 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels need regular longer periods at highway speeds to allow proper DPF regeneration and to get to proper operating temperature to help reduce fuel contamination in the engine oil.
The latest PCM flash does not provide continuous indication of when a DPF regen is taking place. Over time you will get to recognize the subtle changes, but I recommend adding something like the ScanGauge II which will allow you to monitor the DPF temperature which is a clear indication that a regen is in progress when over ~600F.
Avoid shutting the truck down with a regen in progress. If you have to, run the engine at high idle for a few minutes in park before shutting down to allow the turbos to cool down to normal temperatures before shutdown.
Keep up these maintenence items and you should have few issues unless the truck was abbused prior to your purchase. You should also absolutely get the Ford ESP extended warranty, any repairs to the 6.4 are expensive and a single big repair can easily cover the cost of the ESP warranty.
sounds good. it does have good power and idles great. I don't feel that it is a major problem. i know for sure it needs a new air filter according tot he gauge. I plan on changing tho oil today. I believe in slick 50 though i have never used it in a diesel engine. i would like some info b-4 i do. Good of Bad?
as soon as we started home the cleaning exaust flashed on the display and the truck was driven over 300 miles at HWY speeds 70-75 mph. sould that have taken care of that function and for give me but what is a regen? new to these terms.
I felt that but mine idles around 750 I think. I started using a cetane booster and now it is smooth.
I got the diesel kleen from walmart. There are all kinds of brands you can chose from
The oil has to be cj4 rated. Don't know what that will do so check the slick 50. Most use rotella.
You will learn to hate the regens. It is your truck burning off soot to keep the earth green while costing you fuel and performance and eventually create problems. Do some reading.
sounds good. it does have good power and idles great. I don't feel that it is a major problem. i know for sure it needs a new air filter according tot he gauge. I plan on changing tho oil today. I believe in slick 50 though i have never used it in a diesel engine. i would like some info b-4 i do. Good of Bad?
I believe that nearly all of the oil additives on the market have been shown to not provide any benefit under proper testing.
I use Mobil 1 5W40TD synthetic oil with no additional additives. I get Blackstone reports for every oil change and I have posted some of those reports here. Per many comments they are some of the best reports seen for a 6.4.