My '99 E-350 with a V10 calls for Motorcraft AWSF-22E spark plugs, which are no longer made. The sub seems to be AWSF-22WM (aka SP479).

Can someone confirm this? Also, what is all this talk RE: plug blow out I'm reading about... does anyone have any information on what this is/was about?

Thanks!

 

i can't help you on the part numbers, but the issue of plug blowout was one generation of design problems ford had in the heads/spark plugs. i believe you are in the years of having only 3 threads holding the spark plug into the head. they are known for stripping the hole while driving and spitting the spark plug out. this problem becomes much more likely to happen if the plugs are overtorqued, so use a torque wrench to install them to the specified torque.
i won't even get into the next generation of spark plugs and their problems, they can get pretty ugly too.

 

This is comforting .
Maybe I should just leave them alone.

 

A PITA to changr or sure, but at least they won't leave you stranded!

 

Not to sound condescending or anything, but don't neglect basic maintenance because you are afraid of it.

Use a good torque wrench and don't worry about it, but remember that the torque specs are mandatory!

 

i would go ahead and do it. the other thing i forgot to mention is to use anti-sieze on the threads

 

I would install these plugs...E3 Spark Plugs especially with that V10 .....

 

Install Autolite or Motorcraft plugs, those who ventured elsewhere had to do the job again, and as difficult as it is to do, you would rather do it once, I had a dealer that I trusted replace mine at 98,000 miles, at 146,000 it's still smooth as silk. I had my doghouse off a couple times, replacing my DPFE, O2 sensors, and AIC, there is no way I'd try to do the plugs in my 5.4, what a headache, the design of the van is made to be difficult.
Are you sure you need to change yours?

 

Wondering what makes this a difficult job? Is there a lot that has to be removed just to get to the plugs on this V10?

As to whether I need them replaced... no, not sure I do. Not having any service records I cannot say when, if ever, they were replaced by the last owner.

How can I tell this?

 

They are in the top of the engine, very little room, injection rails need removed as well as other items to allow access to get the coils, which are on each plug, the plugs are quite a way down in there too, not to mention none of which is either inside or out, but under the dash. They are designed for 100,000 miles, if you are way beyond it, they've likely been done, and if it's running smooth, why mess with them, I had mine done because on occasion, it required a restart when cold, it had about 97,600 on it, ran flawless after.

 

when i did plugs on a van of this vintage with a 5.4, i unbolted the fuel rails without moving them far enough to seperate from the injectors. i later realized i didn't have to remove them at all, but was able to reach everything with a u-joint and extensions. some plugs were difficult to reach, requiring me to assemble 2 or 3 short extensions together to get in there, but i got them all. i used a cheap air ratchet to spin them out, with the logic that it wasn't enough torque to screw anything up but was enough to save a lot of time. i was right. the rear plug on the right head stuck to its hole, and the air ratchet immediately stalled out, so i switched to hand tools and penetrating oil, and got it out safely.

 

The V-10 is the same, just have to reach a little further.

 

Scooter I can't speak about this task on the V10's but its close enough to my 5.4 I can offer plug changing, both brands and procedures are very important. In both the V10 and V8 forums this is a constant issue and plenty of great hands-on advice from guys who've done this. Some of them are full time mechanics who share invaluable information and experience.

The SP479 plugs or Autolite equivalent are highly highly recommended---that seems to be the constant advice. Proper torque is also vital although there are huge differences of opinion how much ft/lbs is suitable and whether anti-seize should be used.

I'll mention I once read MotorCraft and Autolite plugs have a slightly different thread profile that matches those of the modular head plug threads whereas other brands don't. IF this is true it could be the cause of blown plugs caused by mismatched threads affecting the torque or simply not mating very well. (That reference was made here in FTE but I've yet to find it again in order to post a link.)

Its somewhat common thinking plugs left in place too long (over 50K miles) and/or how they're removed created much of the blown plugs. Here's a TSB directed at the newer 3 valve heads but much of it is directly applicable to any steel plug in an aluminum head: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-plug-tsb.html

And yet another first timer: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-e250-van.html

As Crazy001 suggests do NOT avoid important maintenance because it looks or seems to be difficult. Too often letting something go leads to more costly repairs eventually. In our vans this is NOT a pleasant chore but its not impossible either--like most things the first time is scary, its all downhill afterwards though!

I have a list of about 20 threads on changing plugs in addition to the link above. I'm happy to post it, its a massive amount of reading but it's helpful for the first time plug changer. Lemme know if you'd like it posted here.

 

This weekend is for the brakes... changing the pads front and back for now so I can at least do some road testing, replacing that broken transmission position switch and also the leaking tranny cooler hose that my friends at Goodyear missed.

I should know more about how the engine performs when I get it on the highway
and then I may want to work on the plugs.

I will post back, soon.

 

Great video, Thanks!

Makes sense. Use the carbon spray and take your time. I get it.