I recently bought the ignition control module for the truck I got the one for a 76 ford truck with the 302 now the red wire goes to power a full battery power if im correct. Now does anyone know what wire I should hook it to for full battery power when the key is on? The white wire is supposed to go to starter silinoid for what?? And the green goes to coil - it said the black goes to dist but it also said the black wire is supposed to be grounded to the box screws am I supposed to splice and grounded

 

Save your self some problems and run the red and white back to the ignition switch. red to run, white to start. Substituting for the blue and red/blue wire in diagram. Everything else is plug and play. Space module off surface so it can get air flow underneath it.

 

So can I just run white to the s post on the silinoid? What about running the power to the I post

 

If you run the red to the "I" post, you are drawing power thru the resistor wire. The module needs full battery voltage. Taking shortcuts is the reason a lot of people have problems converting to this system. Just do it right to start with. A lot cleaner install without wires running around the engine bay. Good luck. Here is another diagram with the proper colors for you.

 

Thank you its alot easier with the diagram to show me

 

You'll be pleased with it. I have done many conversions and straightened out others wired wrong. I have found that going back to the ignition switch is the easiest way to get it right to start with, and no mistakes. If at all possible, use a Motorcraft ignition module. I'd rather have a used one from a junkyard than a new chinese knockoff. Keeping it as cool as possible will avoid problems.

 

Yea I read that I was wondering if I should mount it on the radiator supports or if it would still get hot there and with full battery power what size wire should be used

 

Trucks were normally mounted to firewall or inner fender. My early Bronco's have it mounted on top of inner fender wheel well. As far as wire size, same as what goes into module, 14-16gauge if I remember correctly.

 

DuraSpark introduced in 1974, but not all vehicles had it until 1976, as it depends on the applications.

Module used 1974 is 1974 only / Module used 1975 is 1975 only.

1976/79: There are three different modules, two are CA only.

Modules have a colored plastic square above where the wires feed out used to ID them, also have ID numbers marked on them.

The following is "the better" of all Dura/Spark modules:

1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-A, D8VY-12A199-A, D9VZ-12A199A) .. Ignition Module-has blue plastic square (Motorcraft DY-893) / Available from Ford.

Applications: Myriad 1976/97 FoMoCo Passenger Cars/Trucks/Bronco's/Econolines.
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D4PZ-12A112-A .. Stator aka Magnetic Pickup Coil-fits inside dizzy (Motorcraft DU-1A) / Availabe from Ford.

Applications: All 1974/79 V8 Passenger Cars/Trucks/Broncos/Econolines except 1979 LTD/Grand Marquis 351W with EEC.
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POS: D7AZ-12A199-A .. Ignition Module-has red plastic square, Used in many 1976/79 CA vehicles only. You do NOT want this terd, was a POS from day one.

1977: There were 10's of 1000's of new/nearly new vehicles parked on dealers service lots because the POS was defective. Couldn't get any replacements, cuz the POS was on D99 back order for three months.

When finally available, the POS was no better than before! STAY AWAY!!
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D9AZ-12A199-B .. Ignition Module, has brown plastic square, some 1979 CA vehicles only.

The three step scenario of a failing Dura/Spark ignition module.

1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.

2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so.

3) Soone or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.

Since modules fail when they overheat, taking it to a autoparts stores to be tested: It usually tests OK (cuz it's cold), unless the little charmer has burned out.

Engine heat is the mortal enemy of these modules (called Never/Spark! by Ford techs). The module is mounted on the left fender inner apron. This is across from the V8's red hot exhaust manifold.

If replacing the little charmer, use some washers to space it further away from the apron, cuz the more airflow...the better.

 

So the distributor is the color of the first diagram and my icm is the second diagram color does it matter

 

Just use the second. The plug pins match up the colors for the distributor, still basically orange, purple and black.

 

Thought so was just gunna make sure thanks for the help!

 

MSD makes a plug and play box also. It plugs directly into the existing Dura Spark distributor. Works much better than the ford style boxes with a much better spark. Also a adjustable rev limiter option.

 

Yea I planned on getting one later on im just trying to get it together and running

 

Nothing wrong with the stock points system for getting it going. I am running stock points in 2 of my trucks pretty much daily and no issues they run fine.