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hi i am rebuilding my 95 f-350 and wanted to put in a SD radiator in mine would u have any tips on making it fit and i am well prepared to cut , weld and drill what i need to but just looking on advice from someone who had already did it
The biggest mod you will have to do is cutting 2 square holes in the bottom corners of the core support and lengthening the brackets for the radiator. That's the worst of it. If you decide to do so, filling in the holes you cut in the core support could be a little bit of a chore, but not too bad. You also need to shave a bit off the lip of the core support for the lower radiator hose. I had pics of all this stuff, but some of them seem to be missing..... Hmm...
Your also going to need to either cut and adapt the hose that runs from the degas bottle to the lower radiator hose and cap off the extra lower port in the SD radiator or try to make the SD hoses work. I just cut my stock hose, turned it and reconnected it with a hose barb and hose clamps.
Unless something ends up different about yours than mine, you will also need to either cut some holes in the bracing under the hood to clear the top radiator brackets, or you can try to shave the bushings down as much as possible to try to get clearance. I shaved the bushings down quite a bit and still had to cut the hood bracing. Not the way I wanted to do it, but in the end it had to happen. You could also mod the core support even farther to drop the radiator down more, but we did this in truck and it almost had to be done this way.
If the core support is out of the truck, I wouldn't hesitate to cut it in half and lengthen it so there are no holes in the bottom to fill and you can drop the radiator farther. It needs to drop about another 1/2"-1 1/2" to fully clear the hood without cutting the hood bracing. You will have to make a couple of the brackets that bolt to the lower portion of the core support work, but that would be easily done. We do all that when we mess with intercoolers anyways.
What are the extra lines in this pic for? No, not the ones coming off the oil filter adapter
This has been awhile, guess I missed it for a response. The oil line that loops in front of the adapter lines is the pressure line for the oil bypass and the gooped up one (I have replaced) is the return bypass line. To the left of the pressure bypass line is a port for taking oil samples and then the copper line for my oil pressure gauge. To the right of the return line (gooped up mess) is a a oil temp sensor for a temp gauge. The line running up and down by the coolant heater line is my EGT sensor. I bet that's as clear as mud!
This has been awhile, guess I missed it for a response. The oil line that loops in front of the adapter lines is the pressure line for the oil bypass and the gooped up one (I have replaced) is the return bypass line. To the left of the pressure bypass line is a port for taking oil samples and then the copper line for my oil pressure gauge. To the right of the return line (gooped up mess) is a a oil temp sensor for a temp gauge. The line running up and down by the coolant heater line is my EGT sensor. I bet that's as clear as mud!
It should be noted that unless your doing it in order to fit the electric fans, there really isn't much point in doing it. the core is a little bit bigger than our stock core, but it doesn't make much cooling difference. I did it b/c I wanted the electric fans so badly and b/c lots of people want to say that electric fans won't work in the heat and towing. I wanted to prove that wrong, so I went ahead with it and so far the fans work great.
All that's been redone since the oil cooler rebuild. I thought someone would give me shi! over the goop! Actually Travis, that TAIL hangs down there and redirects the air flow over to the oil pan thus aiding in the cooling of the oil. I did extension testing, LOL!!
This has been awhile, guess I missed it for a response. The oil line that loops in front of the adapter lines is the pressure line for the oil bypass and the gooped up one (I have replaced) is the return bypass line. To the left of the pressure bypass line is a port for taking oil samples and then the copper line for my oil pressure gauge. To the right of the return line (gooped up mess) is a a oil temp sensor for a temp gauge. The line running up and down by the coolant heater line is my EGT sensor. I bet that's as clear as mud!
All that's been redone since the oil cooler rebuild. I thought someone would give me shi! over the goop! Actually Travis, that TAIL hangs down there and redirects the air flow over to the oil pan thus aiding in the cooling of the oil. I did extension testing, LOL!!
b/c lots of people want to say that electric fans won't work in the heat and towing. I wanted to prove that wrong, so I went ahead with it and so far the fans work great.
that is what i have always heard, which i why i still have my stock fan. i'm curious if it is true