Understood. The only reason I did that the first time was to make absolute sure that was the problem.

Yes there is a lime green one on the bottom. You can barely see it from that angle. Also the harness side of that second connector has a spot for contact to go in there but the plug on the module side only has two contacts (like this I_ if you are looking down into it). If that makes any sense to you.

The truck was running good until this which was out of the clear blue.

 

When I look at it more closely, I can see it now.

I really have no idea how the previous owner set it up, but if it ran before, then no need to fix what is not broken. Because the module has a 2-wire power connector, we'll assume it's a Duraspark II module for now. It looks like he somehow used Duraspark-I style wiring, but wired it up to work with a Duraspark II module. It's impossible to say what's going on without tracing through everything, but like I said, if it was working that way, then it probably just makes more sense to fix the pressing issue.

In the smaller connector, one wire is hot-in-START power, the other is hot-in-RUN power. First let's make sure power is getting to the appropriate place. Unfortunately since all the wires have been painted over, we'll have to go by place.

Pull the smaller connector apart (the one with three wires going to it) and take the connector coming from the truck's harness. It should be a FEMALE connector. Face it toward you, with the FLAT side on top, and the ROUNDED side on bottom. The wire on the LEFT should have 12 volts in RUN. The wire on the RIGHT should have 12 volts in START. We do not care about the one in the middle on the bottom. You'll have to jam your meter probes down in there to get the reading (one probe into the connector, the other probe at a nearby ground).

Note that when you're looking at hot-in-START voltage, you won't actually see a full 12 volts even though we keep saying it. The battery voltage drops when the starter cranks. You can disable the starter solenoid if you don't want the engine cranking. But you're looking for hot-in-RUN power anyway; we know your hot-in-START circuit is good.

 

On the module side there is no contact on the right (which would be left on the female side). There is only left and bottom middle (on the male side)looking at it the way that you say. Didn't know if this was something worth telling you but I'm guessing it's still going to be the wire on the right that is supposed to have 12v in start?

 

Well this just got a lot more interesting. If you buy a replacement module, it's going to be expecting the configuration I outlined in my previous post. I know of no modern replacement Duraspark module that has a connector in the bottom middle but not on one of the corners.

The best I can tell is that a previous owner wired this up in some custom fashion and/or used non-standard parts. Either something went open-circuit in the wiring, or the ignition module died (the latter of which is more likely). If you try to buy a replacement module, it's not going to match how the previous owner set it up. This is all made even more complicated because of the fact that the previous owner painted over the wiring in multiple colors.

My advice would be to start over. I would go so far as to replace the wiring harness with a known-good and "not messed with" harness from a junkyard vehicle. I would retrofit in an original Duraspark II harness and new ignition module for the same year that the harness came from. If someone has a better idea, then by all means share that. If you want to go that route, below is an original wiring diagram. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful, but trying to troubleshoot a previous owner's wiring mess over the internet is like driving at night with your headlights off.

Note that there is a wire color reversal that's reflected in most wiring diagrams and even replacement modules. In the original wiring harness, RED with a BLUE stripe is hot-in-START power to the module, and WHITE is hot-in-RUN. Most wiring diagrams and new modules come with that reversed (including the diagram below). If you look at most trucks these days, you can see the wire reversal at the connector. The connectors are usually keyed correctly; it's just the colors that are flipped.

 

If I need to couldnt I just test which one is hot during start and hot during run with my multimeter and cut that connector out and just straight wire to a new module? Regardless of that I still need to figure out if I'm getting power to the thing in run.

 

That's also possible. The reason I did not suggest that is because it's hard to tell what other surprises are hidden in how this was set up. If the only thing that was done non-standard was hot-in-RUN power to the module, then there probably is not much work left. But if fixing one thing leads to breaking another, then by the time you've troubleshot how everything is set up, it may have been quicker just to do it the right way from the beginning. Your call. I'd hate to tell you to start cutting up wiring if I can't make a safe call as to whether or not it will work out, since I don't understand what was done in the first place.

 

Before we get to crazy with wiring ideas, take a look at this. Look through the pictures at the bottom of the big one.

BWD Select CBE2 - Ignition Control Module | O'Reilly Auto Parts

It's exactly what mine looks like.

 

Also, if it helps, this is the cap that is on my distributor which was '78 and up I believe.

ACCEL Accel 8223 - Distributor Cap & Rotor Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Good call, what do you know. I have not seen that type before.

Now it is all clear to me. From what I can tell, it looks like you actually have pre-Duraspark, which was simply called "breakerless ignition" right before Duraspark I came out. The pinout of the module, as well as the wire colors for this style are drastically different than the Duraspark II module that everyone is used to, even though they look the same from 10 feet away.

With this in mind, the colors make more sense now. Here is the breakdown of the signals at each connector, as well as what you should look for. The colors below refer to what is coming out of your truck's harness (your colors may look a little faded, but should be close enough to figure out what's what).

Small Connector

a) RED with GREEN stripe - this is the start retard signal to the module. It is hot in START. Your module does not use this (the matching pin is not there on the module).

b) GREEN with YELLOW stripe - this is the coil firing signal. It goes to the negative terminal of the coil.

c) BLACK - this is ground, sensed at the distributor.

Big Connector

d) PURPLE with BLUE stripe - this is one side of the Hall effect sensor in the distributor.

e) ORANGE with YELLOW stripe - this is the other side of the sensor.

f) RED with BLUE stripe - this is hot-in-START power to the module.

g) BLUE - this is hot-in-RUN power to the module.

Make sure you have power at the BLUE wire coming from the harness with the key in RUN. If you do, then the module is getting power in RUN and I think the module should be replaced.

The distributor cap is a little interesting; I thought that wasn't used until a little later with Duraspark II. Perhaps a later-model distributor was swapped in.

 

Distributor cap is a DSII and can be used on DSI also. Just has an adapter that mounts between distibutor and cap. The strain relief can be different colors, depending on year and system. Here are a few diagrams. "If" the run and start leads are reversed to the module it will do exactly what you are experiencing. Possibily when you replaced ign switch? Color of wire on the blue module can be red and white, just follow the pin locations. "If" buying a module, Motorcraft is best.

 

So I definitely have voltage at the blue wire with the key in run. I turned the key off checked and turned it back on to double check. I guess my next move is to replace that ignition control module like you said unless you have any other thoughts.

Don't see how I could have gotten those wires swapped since it's as simple as pulling the plug out of the back of the switch and plugging it into the new one. That would make sense though but I'm pretty positive that's not the problem. So like I said, I guess my next move is to replace that. Also thanks for the diagram, helps me understand my system a little better. Also, that strain relief thing you were talking about is blue FYI.

 

I think it's time to replace the module.

 

As soon I can scrounge up the cash and get that replaced I'll let you know. Thanks and + rep for all the helpful and informative posts.

 

I didn't have time to read all of the posts, but here's my 2 cents. First, you need to know what you have. Points or electronic ignition. Points are just that....they have two contacts that open and close as the distributor rotates. Electronic has a magnetic (or optical) pickup that pulses the ignition circuit as magnets (or shutters) pass by the pickup. With points, you have a ballast resistor that cuts voltage during "run" to keep from burning the points. Starting has full voltage to give maximum spark for starting. Electronic ignition does not use a resistor. Full voltage all of the time. So...if you have an after-market electronic ignition, you need to bypass the resistor. You also need to have the correct coil for the pickup system you have. Mismatches can cause problems. Ohms of resistance of the coil is the thing that needs to match. You said it ran OK before, so I'd look at the obvious first. Make sure all of your connections are dry and clean. Make sure you didn't get some rust or metal pieces against a connection. If you have an air compressor, spray everything down good with air to remove any water or debris.

If this is all good, then think about modules, wiring, ignition switches, etc. But it can get very expensive if you just start changing parts 'till you luck out and change the right one. Just my humble opinion.

 

Apparently you didn't read hardly any of them. Thanks for the input anyways.