Correct Alternator? HELP
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Correct Alternator? HELP
Hey all,
A mere two weeks after I picked up my new to me 7.3 navistar the alternator took a dump. Batteries tested good so it has to be that or the regulator. I reserved a remfd at Napa and am going to pick it up tomorrow. However, I see some differences in the alternators and I want to make sure I get the right one.
They have these two in stock:
napa part number RAY 2133040K
or
napa part number RAY 2133048K
I reserved both just in case. Will either work? Obviously I'll get the 75 amp if so. I'm a broke college kid and these have a 3 yr warranty so theyll work for my quick fix if they will bolt up. I'm worried about the positioning as a mechanic seemed to think they were a 3 o clock but these show 2 o clock. I am going to do the serpentine while I have the alt off. Should be pretty self explanatory, no? If it happens to be the regulator, could someone give me a part #? I cant tell from the website.
Lastly, what am I getting in to with swapping the alternator? I have basic tools on campus with me or access to a garage full about 20 mins away. Can someone give me the quick run down?
A mere two weeks after I picked up my new to me 7.3 navistar the alternator took a dump. Batteries tested good so it has to be that or the regulator. I reserved a remfd at Napa and am going to pick it up tomorrow. However, I see some differences in the alternators and I want to make sure I get the right one.
They have these two in stock:
napa part number RAY 2133040K
or
napa part number RAY 2133048K
I reserved both just in case. Will either work? Obviously I'll get the 75 amp if so. I'm a broke college kid and these have a 3 yr warranty so theyll work for my quick fix if they will bolt up. I'm worried about the positioning as a mechanic seemed to think they were a 3 o clock but these show 2 o clock. I am going to do the serpentine while I have the alt off. Should be pretty self explanatory, no? If it happens to be the regulator, could someone give me a part #? I cant tell from the website.
Lastly, what am I getting in to with swapping the alternator? I have basic tools on campus with me or access to a garage full about 20 mins away. Can someone give me the quick run down?
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ive been racking my brain trying to figure out why this would all of a sudden go out. could it not be the alt? my truck was parked for a week and i left the dome light on so i had to jump it via two jeeps this morning. it started after they got a charge and ran good for a few hours worth of errands (never shut it off, cold outside) and some mild highway driving. i saw that the volt meter was hanging right around 10 if not a little less the whole time and would not charge. when i tried to turn my lights on, the radio cut off. i parked it, turned it off and turned the key to see if it would start. nothing, just clicks. ive done some more research since my original post.. could it be the regulator? starter? my terminals are pretty dirty, could this cause all of that? batteries both tested at about 10 or 11 when i swung by the auto parts store.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,020
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From: vernon hills IL
he's right all di turbo's had 130 amp alternators. again what year is your truck? btw pass on the napa alternator - junk
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Ft. Worth, Texas
ive been racking my brain trying to figure out why this would all of a sudden go out. could it not be the alt? my truck was parked for a week and i left the dome light on so i had to jump it via two jeeps this morning. it started after they got a charge and ran good for a few hours worth of errands (never shut it off, cold outside) and some mild highway driving. i saw that the volt meter was hanging right around 10 if not a little less the whole time and would not charge. when i tried to turn my lights on, the radio cut off. i parked it, turned it off and turned the key to see if it would start. nothing, just clicks. ive done some more research since my original post.. could it be the regulator? starter? my terminals are pretty dirty, could this cause all of that? batteries both tested at about 10 or 11 when i swung by the auto parts store.
When you say voltmeter, do you mean the gauge on the dash? If you do, then I believe that shows what the alternator is putting out.
You said it was cold outside: Doesn't your battery have to work harder in the cold? Hence the term: "cold cranking amps"
I think you have a bad battery.
Shouldn't it be putting out 12 - 13?
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im a big n00b too, no worries. its a 1990.
alright so ill try and explain this better. truck wouldnt start (batteries went dead from trying to crank after leaving dome light on for a while). fired up off a jump start, drove fine for 2+ hours of never being shut off. the gauge on the dash was reading about 10, usually reads about 13-14 so i went to the nearest auto parts place and they tested the batteries, both read about 10-11. the quick conclusion that we drew was that the alternator was not charging them past 10 volts, and thus was bad. parked it, tried to start it again out of curiosity, nothing. just clicked. i just went back out to look at a few things out of frustration again. lights work etc. turned key, cranked for maybe 1 second, went back to clicking. im not sure where to start now. if it is the alt, im going to 3g swap.
i should also note that for the past couple weeks i havent been able to plug my truck in so its seen alot of cold cranking and a few jump starts (waiting to move in to a new house). not sure if that would have affected anything but probably wasnt good for the batteries.
alright so ill try and explain this better. truck wouldnt start (batteries went dead from trying to crank after leaving dome light on for a while). fired up off a jump start, drove fine for 2+ hours of never being shut off. the gauge on the dash was reading about 10, usually reads about 13-14 so i went to the nearest auto parts place and they tested the batteries, both read about 10-11. the quick conclusion that we drew was that the alternator was not charging them past 10 volts, and thus was bad. parked it, tried to start it again out of curiosity, nothing. just clicked. i just went back out to look at a few things out of frustration again. lights work etc. turned key, cranked for maybe 1 second, went back to clicking. im not sure where to start now. if it is the alt, im going to 3g swap.
i should also note that for the past couple weeks i havent been able to plug my truck in so its seen alot of cold cranking and a few jump starts (waiting to move in to a new house). not sure if that would have affected anything but probably wasnt good for the batteries.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: vernon hills IL
an idi should have a 100 amp or larger alternator, your starter may be going bad or you have weak battries
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Ft. Worth, Texas
Not too sure about that (someone will chime in, I'm sure)
But it seems definitely to me: Bad battery, bad battery cable, alternator.
Last time I had a similar problem it was the battery cable. Had corrosion in the line. (The cable from the alternator to the battery)
Good Luck!
But it seems definitely to me: Bad battery, bad battery cable, alternator.
Last time I had a similar problem it was the battery cable. Had corrosion in the line. (The cable from the alternator to the battery)
Good Luck!
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,052
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville FL
Go ahead and go with a 3g 130 amp alternator swap. Sounds like your batteries are going bad though.
Have you tried charging them? You should have 12 volts with truck off and 13.5-14.5 running (closer to 14.5 the better)
Id also recommend upgrading your alternator charge wire to at least 4 gauge with a 150 amp fuse and also upgrading your grounds to at least 4 gauge wiring.
Have you tried charging them? You should have 12 volts with truck off and 13.5-14.5 running (closer to 14.5 the better)
Id also recommend upgrading your alternator charge wire to at least 4 gauge with a 150 amp fuse and also upgrading your grounds to at least 4 gauge wiring.
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i think ill do that regardless but im just confused on why it would click after trying to turn over for a second or so. if it was just the batteries wouldnt it just crank verrrry slowly (assuming theyre low on charge)? the clicking is what confuses me the most.
thank you so much for all the replies dudes.
thank you so much for all the replies dudes.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Diesels don't have an ignition system. You could easily drive for a while and then not be able to restart.
If you're not seeing at least 13.5V with the engine running then your alternator is not working.
Swap the alternator and charge the batteries before trying starting the truck and trying to use the alternator to charge them.
Putting that much load on it and cause even a brand new alternator to fail right away.
Also, if you have a 2G alternator, be sure to replace the charging plug when you replace the alternator. These are known to go bad and it is recommended (by Ford) to always replace them when you have charging problems.
Just my 2c
If you're not seeing at least 13.5V with the engine running then your alternator is not working.
Swap the alternator and charge the batteries before trying starting the truck and trying to use the alternator to charge them.
Putting that much load on it and cause even a brand new alternator to fail right away.
Also, if you have a 2G alternator, be sure to replace the charging plug when you replace the alternator. These are known to go bad and it is recommended (by Ford) to always replace them when you have charging problems.
Just my 2c
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,804
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
i think ill do that regardless but im just confused on why it would click after trying to turn over for a second or so. if it was just the batteries wouldnt it just crank verrrry slowly (assuming theyre low on charge)? the clicking is what confuses me the most.
thank you so much for all the replies dudes.
thank you so much for all the replies dudes.