I own a 1994 F250 7.3 Turbo Diesel.
Lately with high revs I get smoking Diesel coming from under the hood when I stop.

I've traced it to the fuel pump!
I'm told the Diafram in the pump is shot.
Can I change this myself or do I need special tools?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

No special tools are needed. A flare nut wrench for the fuel line fitting is helpful. Anybody with a decent set of tools and average mechanical skills can change the fuel pump. The torque setting for the mounting bolts is 24 ft-lbs. The job is well-described in Haynes #10330.

 

I am assuming there is raw fuel leaking from the weep hole in the lift pump and blowing against the block to cause the problem. I would also look at the plastic caps along the fuel return galley on top of the engine to make sure there is no fuel coming from one of them due to a dried out o'ring beneath the cap or a hole in the return fuel line and letting raw fuel drip on the top side of the engine. If you change the lift pump, be sure to clean the old gasket and replace it with new.

 

By lift pump I'm assuming you mean the fuel pump that is connected to the block and looks just like a regular gasoline fuel pump...

The diafram was shot in it,so I replaced it,then cleaned the area and waited to go to work today to check it.

The short trip to work still produced a small (3" dia.) puddle under the truck.
Looking where the new fuel pump was showed no fuel.
Checking the plastic caps showed quite a bit of fuel around the two back ones one the passenger side of the block.
The stores were closed tonight so I haven't removed them to check the o-rings yet.
But I did notice that the 2 back ones were solid...meaning I could not move any of the fittings on the caps at all,but on the front one(the only one) had a plastic sleave that slides up and down on the cap(this cap must have a name).
It sort of snaps into the down postion.
Where should this thing sit?
Snapping it into the down position would seem right but doesn't feel right????
Maybe you can fill me in on how this plastic piece fits in...
Should I be able to move this BEFORE loosening any nuts?(like it is now)

 

You were correct about the lift pump.
Those plastic cap type thingies are part of the fuel return system from the nozzles (injectors). There are 2 rubber o'rings beneath each of the caps. The o'rings get hard from the fuel and crack or stretch. Even tho they seem tight, the o'rings will cause leaks. Sometimes the leaks will NOT leak fuel but will cause air to enter the return system and into the fuel system making the engine run poorly (believe it or not). If you follow the lines, you will notice it will flow some fuel back to the filter housing. You should be able to find the repair kit (and get the hole kit for injection pump installation) in an international dealer or injection repair facility. Determine which year and engine you have as there is a different kit for each engine and certain years. Remove the hole system and replace the o'rings on the nozzles, cut the fuel line to proper length and also replace the caps. (REplacing everything now will prevent those nasty words.) You can use some type of lubricant to allow the caps to slide over the o'rings with ease.
Good luck and if there any problems, get back to us.

 

When you do the return lines do one side at a time. Take one side off and with your new kit make a copy of the old set. Should go back on without a hitch. I believe two of the T's on the turbo models need to be re-used on the back of each side or get new ones from FORD. When putting on the o-rings put the top one on first and then slide the bottom one over it so it doesn't get stuck in the top groove. Use some sort of grease to slide them on. Be sure the fuel hose in your kit is made for diesel or they will swell and split and make as much or more mess!

 

Thanks guys!I picked up the o-rings on the way home tonight then read your posts.It was to late to get the KIT so tommorrow night on my way back I'll pick it up.
Why is there a PLASTIC SLEEVE with a rim to pull it up,what is it protecting on that front injector?

Should I do the whole side at once or seperatly?
Do I have to bleed them afterwards?

 

I believe that injector has something to do with timing or rpm, I don't remember. Do the the whole side at once, all four caps. Should go on as a unit. You can crack the injector line nuts to bleed if you want to but, many just crank and let it run. Be careful to move the metal injector lines as little as possible. You don't want to have to replace one of them. With all that would have to be removed, what a pain!

 

Sounds good 94turbodiesel...
I'll post with any last minute questions tommorrow night after work.

 

Hope it helps. Sounds like we have the same truck. Do you have the 5 spd or the E4OD? Mine has 123000+miles with a new motor at 72335 miles. I'm the second owner. Bought it from a logger last August. Needs some TLC, but it is still one tough SOB!

 

Oh ya it'll help...I know very little about diesel trucks but I'm learning!!!
My truck has the E4OD.The truck is fully loaded.
I love it...except for these repairs of course but then thats how I learn.
Besides she'll be running better to boot.

 

Well the Ford dealer in town does not sell the Injector Kits anymore nor did Kenworth.There's an International dealer further north and I'll check for it next week.
In the mean time I did pick up the o-rings so I'll do them tommorrow to at least stop the leaking.

 

If you can stand the odor, you are better off doing everything at the same time OR you may have to replace the o'rings again
Sometimes they will get damaged when messing with the caps.

 

Oh yeah, this is my favorite job,--sarcastic tone

Those leakoff tee's like to break depending on how old they are, and the one under the impeller housing will be fun.

I would go for the whole set and do all the injectors while your in there. If you already have a couple of leakers, then others aren't far behind, not unless something moved the return hoses recently, like your arm trying to get to something else.

When taking off the injector line nuts, (5/8") line wrench would be best, and use a backup wrench on the injector to keep it from moving.

When putting the o-rings in place, vasoline on your fingertips will make them go over the injector nice and easy, and this also helps putting the leakoff tee back on. Don't use wd-40 or any other penetrating oil to lube the tee's, it will make them leak again down the road. Also, no diesel fuel either, vasoline is perfect for this task.

Hey Bilder, what odor, you mean diesel fuel, jeez most of us have diesel in our blood now, I work on oil fired heating equip. and I'm just so used to it, I don't even notice it anymore.

I wouldn't have a gas-eater truck for anything now, only exception is my backup work van, 95 E-250 with the 300I6 motor.(I like to think this is the best gas-engine ever made) Got it real cheap, and it just sits till I need it, sometimes for months.

 

I'm back...
I replaced all the Plastic Caps and O-rings as well as the Fuel lines and clips on the Fuel Gallies.
One thing to note here is the fact that the Replacement Kit has two caps that don't fit,so I ended up cleaning the two old ones.There fine.
So no more leaking from the caps.

Now I'm still waiting for my Manual to come in(2 more weeks).
While doing this repair I noticed a small leak on the side of the pump(there's a push rod or something there thats seeping.
I coundn't fix it because it's up against the block.
So I'm guessing all the lines have to be disconnected from the pump and the pump pulled.
This looks a little tricky so I'm trying to hold off until the Manual comes.
So between the manual and this forum I figure I can do it.
What is the part thats leaking on the pump?Anyone know?
Is there a Repair Kit for this or do I have to have the pump Re-Built?

Sorry about the response lag,I had to make some changes to my info and was having a hard time getting it to take.
Thanks for the help Ken.