As ive posted before my 93 150 4x4 blows wheel bearings about every three months ive changed everything but the ttb arms still no change so im gonna try to just swap the whole axle to solid front out of a 79 I plan on getting the trac bar from bronco grave yard what else do I need I hope to get it finished in a week end?

 

At this point I would also replace the shocks, not required, but i would anyway. The frame width from 79-93 is different so the perch for the coils is going to need to get moved over, otherwise you should be all set I think.

 

Ive got new shocks on it and I did not know I had to change spring perchs now im reconsidering?

 

I honestly have to say that it's not the wheel bearings fault.
If you've replaced the spindle and bearings AND RACES ( I say that cause many many people don't ) then either the nuts aren't preloaded correctly or the races weren't seated properly or weren't changed. Then it all gets loose and blows up.

Rule number 1: Properly pack wheel bearing
2. Clean ALL old grease from hub (has broken bearing in it or shavings)
3. Replace and FULLY SEAT races in hub
4. Put in rear bearing and new seal
5. Add lots and lots of grease to center of hub ( I prefer lucus red grease)
6. Grease up spindle and slide hub on
7. Add more grease to hub around spindle ( yes you need lots of it)
8. Put in outer bearing and first nut (preload nut)
9. Tighten nut fairly tight and spin hub 10 times. Tighten nut little more and turn hub
10. Back off nut then preload (tighten to "fairly tight") and put lock washer in and align pin with hole, always tighten nut to get pin to align. Then put locking nut on "very tight"

If you do this, I doubt it will go bad. I really think its replacement error and not an issue with ttb or bad karma your truck has.

 

I agree with the last statement but do NOT overgrease like this guy says. If the hub and spindle are clean then all you need is the bearing packed with grease. Any more than that is one, wasteful, and two, can cause problems with the hubs.

If both sides are going bad then I'd have to say you're installing or torquing the bearings wrong. A set of wheel bearings should last for a VERY long time. When they fail what are they doing?

Also if you go from a TTB to a solid axle you need a minimum of 4" of lift. Do a google search for "TTB solid axle swap" and you will find a ton of information on other web sites about this, including costs, parts lists, etc.

You could do it in a weekend if you had a shop will ALL the right tools - grinders, welders, plasma torches, knew what you were doing, and have done the swap the before. But if you're new to doing that kind of work doing it in one weekend is a complete joke.

 

i agree, SAS is not for the faint of heart.

are you running manual or auto hubs on this rig with the bearing issues?

 

What do you mean the perch of the spring?

I did the SAS and kept my 1989 coil buckets.

 

The reason I said lots of grease is because 98% of people don't know how to pack bearings, or they use a crappy bearing packer thing that works like crap and they think it's fine.
More grease isnt wasteful, it's insurance that when things get warm, they are properly lubed. When you clean out the hub completely, then the minimal amount of grease that's on the bearings will melt and fill the hub, meaning less grease for bearings. Grease isnt expensive, and from my experiance of fast 4x4s and lots of hyway, and tons of weight, and hours of submerged use, I've never had one fail. And I've never heard of a locking hub fail because of too much grease. I've had warn, super winch, mike marker, ford, auto locking, and none have been effected by my extra grease.
We all do things differently, but I've had great luck, you've had great luck, neither of us are wrong I'd say.

 

I already asked about the wheel bearings on here many times ive tried all those methods also took it to three different mechanic shops so I think complete axle swap is my last option.

 

Do you know of any good frame / alignment shops that could double check that the front end is properly aligned with the frame and everything else. I know a good frame shop and their knowledge for finding problem issues is very useful.

 

Not many shops around here that are any good, but the thing im lost about is it dont wear out tires at all and drives straight down the rd

 

do you have manual hubs or auto hubs?

 

Warn manual hubs

 

And my truck has a rear lift from the po so I could lift the front solid axle cheaper and stronger

 

The coil buckets line up on these? I couldve sworn that it was different just like the leaf springs.