Could use some suggestions
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From: Isanti, MN
Could use some suggestions
Hi everyone,
I've been replacing the struts on my Contour since Friday night, and after a number of setbacks I think I've met something that I can't get past:
It's seized to the point where my impact wrench rated at 450 ft-lbs couldn't get it out. So I took my torx bit and put it on my breaker bar and then connected a cheater bar to get some leverage. I ended up rounding it out.
So now I have absolutely no clue how I'm going to get this thing out. I need to apply 500+ ft-lbs to this thing to hopefully get it unstuck, and with a rounded out head I have no way of applying said force. Any suggestions?
I've been replacing the struts on my Contour since Friday night, and after a number of setbacks I think I've met something that I can't get past:
It's seized to the point where my impact wrench rated at 450 ft-lbs couldn't get it out. So I took my torx bit and put it on my breaker bar and then connected a cheater bar to get some leverage. I ended up rounding it out.
So now I have absolutely no clue how I'm going to get this thing out. I need to apply 500+ ft-lbs to this thing to hopefully get it unstuck, and with a rounded out head I have no way of applying said force. Any suggestions?
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From: Isanti, MN
Thanks for the quick reply Tim!
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
It looks very much like the setup I have on my Tempo ('cept it uses metric-sized nuts & bolts).
Those bolts are shoulder bolts - a large area of 'em along the shaft is unthreaded and fits into a channel or groove on the ball joint's stud.
And you can't get that bolt out, is that the issue? I would put a nut back on just to the point where it's flush with the bolt, and beat on it with a mini-sledgehammer.
Those bolts are shoulder bolts - a large area of 'em along the shaft is unthreaded and fits into a channel or groove on the ball joint's stud.
And you can't get that bolt out, is that the issue? I would put a nut back on just to the point where it's flush with the bolt, and beat on it with a mini-sledgehammer.
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by ctubutis
Those bolts are shoulder bolts - a large area of 'em along the shaft is unthreaded and fits into a channel or groove on the ball joint's stud.
And you can't get that bolt out, is that the issue? I would put a nut back on just to the point where it's flush with the bolt, and beat on it with a mini-sledgehammer.
And you can't get that bolt out, is that the issue? I would put a nut back on just to the point where it's flush with the bolt, and beat on it with a mini-sledgehammer.
The problem is that I think that the bolt is threaded into the knuckle, but have no way to verify. I'm at a point where I have to either cut off the mangled end with a Dremel and put it back together sans working struts, or get a bigger hammer and beat it harder. Your post gives me hope though...can you verify that it's not threaded into the knuckle?
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Blue Hill Township
Otherwise remove the ball joint from the lower control arm so you can work on it off the car.
Have you tried torching it?
Have you tried torching it?
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From: SW Virginia
Tom, have you thought about just drilling it out? Wouldn't be hard. You'll just need to get a bit that's close to the diameter of the bolt but a little smaller diameter. Just go slow and easy and you should be able to drill it.
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From: Isanti, MN
I don't think I have anything for a puller to grab. I also don't want to remove the balljoint because I believe it's riveted in there and I'd have to replace it. For the same reason I haven't torched it, as I don't want to replace the balljoint!
Are you sure that's possible John? That's a high grade hardened bolt, and it's not small, it's got a 1/2" OD.
Is everyone convinced that it's not threaded into the knuckle? Perhaps I need to keep beating it...
Is everyone convinced that it's not threaded into the knuckle? Perhaps I need to keep beating it...
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I can't confirm anything, I can only tell you it looks like my Tempo. 
I would be very surprised if it were screwed into the knuckle, though, that wouldn't make any sense from a mechanical engineering standpoint.
What year is this? There is a chance that NumberDummy might have a picture and/or description from a parts catalog if it's 2001 or older.
Might also go to the Repair Information section of Autozone's web site, they might have pictures or descriptions that can help.
I would be very surprised if it were screwed into the knuckle, though, that wouldn't make any sense from a mechanical engineering standpoint.
What year is this? There is a chance that NumberDummy might have a picture and/or description from a parts catalog if it's 2001 or older.
Might also go to the Repair Information section of Autozone's web site, they might have pictures or descriptions that can help.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Blue Hill Township
I am thinking a balljoint press that looks like a c-clamp/ I would think you could get it out with that.
If none of those work I would try an oxy/acetylene torch on the knuckle and stay away from the ball joint and it should come free.
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From: Isanti, MN
I can't confirm anything, I can only tell you it looks like my Tempo.
I would be very surprised if it were screwed into the knuckle, though, that wouldn't make any sense from a mechanical engineering standpoint.
What year is this? There is a chance that NumberDummy might have a picture and/or description from a parts catalog if it's 2001 or older.
Might also go to the Repair Information section of Autozone's web site, they might have pictures or descriptions that can help.
I would be very surprised if it were screwed into the knuckle, though, that wouldn't make any sense from a mechanical engineering standpoint.
What year is this? There is a chance that NumberDummy might have a picture and/or description from a parts catalog if it's 2001 or older.
Might also go to the Repair Information section of Autozone's web site, they might have pictures or descriptions that can help.
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From: Isanti, MN
Got it!
I have to thank all of you guys. After the pretty much unanimous consensus that it wasn't threaded in I went back downstairs and attacked it with renewed vigor. Between the extended bludgeoning and the PB B'laster I was able to slowly work it out. 
And this is the end after the beating it got...cant' reuse this one!
Okay, so now any suggestions as to how to get the balljoint to separate from the knuckle? Last time I did something similar to this on a GM SUV it popped right out. This one isn't moving as much. I tried quickly jacking up on the wheel hub to ensure that the LCA wasn't limiting downward travel, but it still won't budge. Don't they make some sort of tool for this?
And this is the end after the beating it got...cant' reuse this one!
Okay, so now any suggestions as to how to get the balljoint to separate from the knuckle? Last time I did something similar to this on a GM SUV it popped right out. This one isn't moving as much. I tried quickly jacking up on the wheel hub to ensure that the LCA wasn't limiting downward travel, but it still won't budge. Don't they make some sort of tool for this?
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From: Blue Hill Township
Use a 2x4 and lift up on the knuckle and then use a hammer and hit the lower control arm to unseat the ball joint stud.
If that doesn't work you need a pickle fork but you will wreck the ball joint.
If that doesn't work you need a pickle fork but you will wreck the ball joint.