Front Brake Hose Replacement.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver Island B.C.
Front Brake Hose Replacement.
Hello all, I recently found out that I need to replace my ds front brake hose. I have never done this before so I was wondering if there are any tips or advice you guys can give me on how to do this properly. I also was wondering if I need to bleed all four brakes when I am done or if I can get away with just bleeding the one.
Thanks
Thanks
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,591
Likes: 5,619
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i replace them in a set and the front steel lines also, because the steel line usually breaks when trying to remove the rubber line.
so i save myself the headaches and just order everything before starting the job.
so i save myself the headaches and just order everything before starting the job.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 4
From: Victor, MT
If you unseal any part of the brake system...you never know where air can get into....i would say its safe to just bleed the one, but brakes and me hardly ever get along. The hose itself should be fairly easy.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,739
Likes: 181
From: Western Mass
Spray the connections with your favorite penetrating lube a few times in the days before you go to switch it out. Also spray the brake bleeder and pray that will loosen as well. Actually it might be wise to try and crack open the bleeder before you do anything else, just in case its frozen up.
I've also had terrible luck with steel lines when replacing hoses, or rear wheel cylinders. They almost always have been rusted together. Usually I can get the line nut to turn without too much trouble, but 95% of the time the line is rusted to the nut and twists/breaks the line
To prevent future issues, I liberally coat the new connections (including the section of line that rotates inside the nut) with anti-seize.
I've also had terrible luck with steel lines when replacing hoses, or rear wheel cylinders. They almost always have been rusted together. Usually I can get the line nut to turn without too much trouble, but 95% of the time the line is rusted to the nut and twists/breaks the line
To prevent future issues, I liberally coat the new connections (including the section of line that rotates inside the nut) with anti-seize.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver Island B.C.
Spray the connections with your favorite penetrating lube a few times in the days before you go to switch it out. Also spray the brake bleeder and pray that will loosen as well. Actually it might be wise to try and crack open the bleeder before you do anything else, just in case its frozen up.
I've also had terrible luck with steel lines when replacing hoses, or rear wheel cylinders. They almost always have been rusted together. Usually I can get the line nut to turn without too much trouble, but 95% of the time the line is rusted to the nut and twists/breaks the line
To prevent future issues, I liberally coat the new connections (including the section of line that rotates inside the nut) with anti-seize.
I've also had terrible luck with steel lines when replacing hoses, or rear wheel cylinders. They almost always have been rusted together. Usually I can get the line nut to turn without too much trouble, but 95% of the time the line is rusted to the nut and twists/breaks the line
To prevent future issues, I liberally coat the new connections (including the section of line that rotates inside the nut) with anti-seize.
Great advice...thanks alot!!
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