If he chooses the right coil springs, the world's toughest u-joints, and adds some extra layers to his frame where the pivot brackets mount, he could lift that truck 19 inches and not have any problems with the TTB front axle.

The problem with suspension lifts is finding the correct spring That won't throw the camber completely out of whack.

 

I thought it was 6" of lift was screwy. Who has the good springs? I'm looking at a few trucks right now. One is a parts truck, and the other is running, came from Arizona.
1984 FORD F150 LONG BED xmas special fs/ft

 

I dont know about that. I do know at some point when they build the pre runners or bad boys the TTB has to be cut off and welded at a different angle to get the ball joints right. I totally forgot about lifting the Bronco after reading all the threads about front end issues. I bet like your saying there is a better way to do a mild lift than others. However, I still see a lot of threads about the alignment issues.

 

Well when all the aftermarket companies use one size fits all springs, you're gonna run into issues with fitment and alignment. To properly lift a TTB front axle, you have to measure for the correct springs, and then either find a set that fit your measurements, or have them custom made.

You have to think, if aligning the TTB is such a problem, why did Ford run that setup for 16 years? Ford wouldn't just release a truck to the public with poor alignment. Ford knew how to get the TTB front end in alignment, and that was because they measured, checked, and then measured again to make sure that the springs were cut to match the pivot brackets, which allowed the wheel to be close to 0'. They then used the camber bushings to bring the camber to 0'. If the springs aren't cut to match the pivot brackets however, no degree of camber eccentric is even gonna be able to properly align a TTB front axle.

Aligning a TTB is a pain in the rear for sure, but it CAN be done, even with a lift. The problem is, Americans are lazy, and want the easy way out. For some reason, fabbing up brackets and then shoehorning a straight axle into a TTB truck is viewed as an easier task than taking simple geometry measurements.

Regardless, everybody is allowed to form their own opinion. However, opinions are often false, and the opinion that the TTB front axle takes rocket science to align is a golden example.



Half of the world's pre-runners have severe negative alignment to extend their suspension travel. They don't lift their trucks, they keep them low to the ground while trying to extend suspension travel. Their problem is also in the springs, because the longer the spring, the more suspension travel. However they don't use drop pivot brackets, so of course their alignment is going to be completely out of whack. Just adding spring to a TTB front axle is a great way to lose your alignment.

 

Sounds like you have messed with a couple of them Fordzilla. Everybody does jump right on the SAS ticket. I have read the TTB vs SAS threads all over the internet til I was blue in the face. They go with the huge 8 lug 3/4-1 ton axles too. Then if you have tires smaller than 35" you went backwards in the ground clearance dept.

I still may lift the Bronco, but , its for my 16 yr old little girl. She is only 5'1" and getting in it now might be a challenge to her.

 

Five different TTB front axles to be exact. Two with lift kits, that have zero degree camber.

The downfall of the TTB front axle is really in the U-joints. They're quick to bind up under certain conditions, which is perfect for snapping axle shafts. Some people like to clearance the yokes to try and keep them from binding, but it's hit and miss on whether or not that works.

One of the main reasons TTB lifts over 4" are looked down upon is due to the fact that you can't easily change the pinion angle on a TTB front axle to compensate for the severe drive shaft angle that comes with a 6" lift.

 

Hey Shaun, I was thinking, could you maybe keep an eye out for smaller items in the yards down there?

 

I know people change the D44 passenger slip and stub out for the D50 slip/stub. This gives you the heavier U joint on the difficult one to change. The other two can be changed quite a bit quicker in the field.

I do hear about people taking some material off of the beam where the joints rotate to keep them from making contact. The issue I have with this is Dana engineered the TTB with that steel in that place for a reason.

 

I sure can. PM me with what you need.


That's another common fix, albeit one that is typically a last resort.

 

Brand new question: I know this varies from state to state, but what are the rules with swaping cabs, but staying with the original Vin tag?

 

I think the VIN is the VIN. Meaning whatever the VIN is on the truck is the legal description. You cant change them b/c it will destrot the tag if tampered with.

 

I was asking because I found an F250 with a rusty cab, and mine has already been fixed. If I got the 250, I was thinking of swapping the cabs, but would rather have the 250 tag.

 

the 302 is a lot cheaper to upgrade

 

I will give my opinions of what I have been reading so far:

1. I would not even contemplate a lift unless I had a good frame to work with. Whatever made it crack in the front is going to have even more stress on it with a lift. I think a new frame is a must. You also said the crossmembers had holes. I have been down this road, got a good frame from the cab back from the junkyard, drilled all those rivets out on my truck and the junkyard frame, and swapped all the crossmembers and repaired the rear of the frame. It's a lot of work and in the end you have a repaired frame. Keep working on the donor theory.

2. The f250 is a little bit different animal. If you get a 4x4 f250, you need all it's drivetrain parts(front and rearends), new tires and rims, etc. None of your f150 stuff will be of much use except the engine/tranny/transfer case. A 2wd f250 is not going to do you much good at all.

3. The cab swap thing. The easiest thing to do is keep the vin that is already in your name. It will still be known officially as a f150 though. It's illegal to swap the tags from one cab to the other. People with less than legal intentions do this, thus why the law is the way it is. It's a can of worms that I would not open.

4. From my experience, the 302 is a good grocery getter engine. If you want to do any serious 4x4ing or towing, the 351w is the smallest engine I would go with. If you get a lift with large tires, you are not going to like the 302 much.

 

Talk to your DMV. The official process sometimes involves getting a new VIN issued to you, but they can't stop you from swapping your cab.

Think of rollover accidents or a tree landing on the roof or something similar, each state has an official way of dealing with it.