Knowing me, I'd cut the darn hub anyway.
I was thinking about changing them out since as far as I know they havn't been changed, but if they still are good of course they will stay and save me some dough

Also looking to change for stock style rotors any one have suggestions? Slotted or drilled??? really not sure which way to go.

 

Had a passenger side ball joint snap the stem as well. Also had the same problem with rotors before. On one I drilled 4 holes where the rotor sits on the hub and shot PB in the holes. I also heated it with a propane torch. That seems to help the PB work its way in. It took a while but off it came. The last time I had a stuck rotor I used an air chisel to split the rotor.

 

That's one of those faulty ball joints for sure! My, you were lucky!

 

Sure was, when I got her home to check her, I just go finished picking up my 3yr old daughter from Pre-Kindergarden & going to the gas station. Since I had the feeling that was the issue I stayed off of main road and pretty much cruised.


The castle/crown/hub nut what size is the 98 4wd Expy? I have heard/read many different sizes from 97-00, but haven't found much on the 98. I tried 35 & 36. Going to go get a 37 & 38, after I return the 35 (1/2 drive) & 36 (3/4 drive). These things aint cheap from Sears. I'm going to Autozone when they open in the morning. Just thought I get some insight, since I may have missed it in the Haynes manual.

 

Holy broken ball joint batman! I have never seen a joint break like that. You are lucky the knuckle didn't fly out from under you. Try smacking the rotor with a 2 lb hammer between the lug studs. That usually works for me. Try not to hit a stud.

 

well I took the tools back and went larger. Well after now kicking myself in the butt a few times I have learned that there is a cover the hub nut and I guess it is used for safely securing the hub nut cotter pin, after dealing with it. I realized I saw this back in 2009,lol silly me. So I will be keeping that. My question is what is the crap that looks like spider eggs (will take picture in the morning) under there. The mess it pretty sticky and would I need to add that stuff when I re-apply my cover and put back my hub nut.

Also new update, my simple behind apparently applied the brake with my tool box when using my front seat floor as a storage container and now I have all kinds of brake fluid in my rear drive way. She isn't happy with me right now. I should need a new caliber should I? I guess will find out when I try to press it back.

Another thing just went and bought my first Impact Wrench from Sears Model 27990 and shop 3 ton jack. I am so in love right now

 

Ok, fellas. I finally got the rotor off but not how you think. I ended up take of the steering knuckle, hub & rotor off all at the same time. I took the 3 bolts out from the back of the knuckle had to use an extension attached to my 18/20" breaker bar. No luck hub didn't come off. Even used puller, PB and some more smack down with a few hammers, no luck there either. So since I already had the upper ball joint nut half way off, I used the a pickle fork (only since I plan on changing it) to take it off. Did the same to the outer tie rod. Put my jack under her and lowered her done. To take of the nut's to the ball joints and tie rod I believe I used a 21mm, put I used my electric impact to help with these rusty bad boys. The upper ball joint & tie rod all had tons of play. If I am correct I shouldn't be able to move the ends with my pinky finger so very freely. Will try to take a vid when I get home from work tomorrow and you guys tell me what you think.

View of lower ball joint nut cotter pin:




Is this the part number for the steering knuckle?:


Some damage done to the rotor:


More Damage:


I used 3 jack stands, 2-3ton black & 1-2ton red.


The piece that is missing is the piece that flow passed me and stuck in my fence last week.


A better view of the top half of the snapped lower ball joint: They look like one piece, I hope I can get the lower half out of the steering knuckle.


An above view of the nasty threesome: steering knuckle, hub and rotor in their love sandwich.

 

Ho-leeeeeeee Crapp you gotta be in love now!

 

That red stand needs to go into the scrap metal pile now!!

 

You make a valid point. I actually went and purchased the set due to the other red one being worse then this. I got good use out of it. Purchased back in 2004. It was on sale at Pepboy for abou a buck and the new set I got was about a buck as well and I got an extra ton,lol. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

Good on getting heavy duty stands. The reason you are alive today is the front drive assembly held it all together and you luckily found it. You played with the kitty some there. Be safe with your stands now. That drive shaft may seem okay visually now but it has been tru hell. Check it out closely, even have a pro look at it. That tierod end looks kind of weird to in the picture?

 

The tierods all have way to much play for me to keep them they are junk. I could freely move them with my pinky finger, the same with my upperball joints. I compared the play to the old ones to the new ones I have and it is time for them to go. I will take it to one of my friends at a local dealership and see what he thinks and then go from there. See this is why I like posting and chatting on here. I would have thought about checking the drive axle in more detail way after I put everything back together.

 

Am replacing the tie rods while all these other parts are out of the way. This my first time over replacing tie rods on any vehicle. My question to you all is should I just try to use the old tie rods to judge the length and everything on how the new ones should go on or....?

 

Count the turns as you remove them and instal the new back in the same position with the same amount of turns. You will need to put it on alignment machine still for positive true front end geometry before daily driving. Measurement are very delicate and new parts aren't always going to make it perfect again before final adjustments are made. Looking for bent, sprung parts is critical due to breakage of the Ball Joint.

 

You are where i was this last friday- i had it inspected and was told both ball joints on both sides were woren too much but when i removed the tire i found out the sway bar bolts were broken and tie rod were bent and stock shocks were collapsed on passengers side so i replaced All on both sides but i replaced the shocks with Monroe Sensatrack and i also replaced Both of the brake lines from the Frame to the Calipers (might as well. cost for both $24)before you take off the top control arm use a grease pencil and mark the washers on were they are aligned i used grey paint and washed off the surface and then used a grease pencil to mark on where it goes unless you have a place to have your alignment done afterwards that is not far away when done it rides great steering is tight and responsive (better then when i bought it new)but one problem the front now sits higher then the back getting a lvling kit next weekend to solve that problem but if you would like there is a 3in lift kit that comes with all needed things.if i knew what i know now i would have opted for the lift kit and get what you want in one bundle and replace Everything -it rides like a dream now-other then the height difference of 2 inches higher then the rear..