$360 for the compressor, $180 for the horns. Wolo's horns are half that.

 

- Epic -
I like the spot for installing the air chuck quick connect.
I think I am going to put one on each side of the truck.

Did you figure out something to use as a cap for the quick connect air chuck ??

I am looking for some ideas on this.

_

 

Check out this high quality solution:



Obviously this is not permanent but I had to put something over the coupler with all the snow and wet weather recently. I'm planning to get another coupler for the driver's side at a local hose supply store. They have a rubber cap that will fit nicely over the coupler and keep it in good shape.

 

Luckily I am in a warm dry area right now so I just have a rubber plug in the inside.
I have also thought about putting an ear plug inside but afraid it might not come back out.
I know tractors have a rubber cap for hydraulic hose connectors but not sure if these would fit.
Or maybe something like these :



-

 

I use the rubber boots that you see on canes or walkers and some furniture. My ace hardware has 3 - 4 sizes in both black & white. I took one of the quick disconnect in & found the right size. Fits tight & if lost or stolen it cost like $0.60 -( I bought a couple x-tra)

 

Byram, thats a good idea to keep the crap out...........

 

Good reason to use one of the up fitters and a relay. That will be my plan when I get to that installation.

Hey Epic - whats up with the scotch locks?????

 

McMaster-Carr

 

In this pict over on the right you can see the quick disconnect with a rubber boot that I was talking about in earlier post... Before I get flamed - the hoses are temp until I get some DOT brake line, regulator/filter, etc... Also I am going to mount the tank a few inches higher because drain is right at /below frame level but I used existing holes in the frame the other day when mounting tank..

 

I know, I know... Getting lazy in my old age. I should have soldered and heat-shrinked everything but you know. I actually can't think of a time where a scotch lock has failed me. The bayonet connectors, on the other hand, are just asking for trouble. I did come back and add dielectric grease, tape and heat shrink tube to everything under the truck. It's also tucked into split conduit so it's pretty protected.

 

Byram - is that Texas cow crap on your tank?

 

Yep - I noticed it after I took the pict... forgot to do another shot... Good spot! LOL

 

Ever take one back apart to see what it does to the wires?
When they first came out I wa still workin gin dealerships, all the installers thought they were the best thing since sliced bread. All the techs hated them for the problems they caused.

I'm sure you know it, but for the rest of the folks, the relay pictured is a standard automotive type 30 amp relay. Available just about anywhere.

Radio Shack brand is OK, but if you prefer something a little better you can get the relays put out by Hella and if you look around (even Amazon) you can get rubber sealed water resistant relays.

Wiring harnesses with matching plugs are also available.

 

Spoken by a man with experience. Several good tips there.

 

what are you guys using an electric solenoid and where do you mount it? Or a manual ball valve. Which one works better. I have a nathen locomotive train horn.
thanks