rotors siezed on
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 1
rotors siezed on
06 f250 i tried like hell and i cant get the front rotors off . they seemed to be seized on .any ideas . i tried the sledgehammer and no luck.i got nice stop tech rotors id like to put on.any suggestions.Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,098
Likes: 136
My air hammer helped, remember to put antiseize on the metal contact surfaces which are now stuck for you. Just don't put any on the actual brake surface!! That way they should come off easier if needed.
Also don't be careless with a larger sledge and break something. Make sure you hit your target. I think sometimes the front and back lip of the rotor rust bad enough to make those edges swell which makes it hard to come off.
Good luck. It'll come off.
Also don't be careless with a larger sledge and break something. Make sure you hit your target. I think sometimes the front and back lip of the rotor rust bad enough to make those edges swell which makes it hard to come off.
Good luck. It'll come off.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,076
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From: Mt. Holly Springs, PA
++++1 I use pb blaster in the shop all day long...
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 819
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From: Putnam Valley, New York
SIEZED ROTORS
The problem is not where the rotor mounts on the studs or the surface between the studs and the hub. The problem is behind the rotor where the wheel stud hub fits inside the rotor. It's the surface that would be the emergency brake drum on the rear rotors, except it's on the front ones. The outer diameter of the wheel stud hub is a close fit in the rotor, and over the years, rust builds up in there and keeps the rotor from sliding over the hub. Take a good look in there--you will see that the inside diameter of the rotor is too small to pass over the hub. As you smack the rotor surface with the sledge hammer, you will see pieces shoot out from behind the rotor. This is the rust buildup that I am talking about. Shoot the inside of the rotor with PB Blaster or Kroil and let it sit---Then bang away !!!
RON
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 259
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well my buudy setup a salamander in his new garage and we started it. once i pulled the caliper and assembly off i soaked it in pb, had a beer and then whacked it on the outside of the hat witha deadblow hammer.i went around once and magic it popped off.Biggest challenge was 1 trying to figure out the clips that go on the pads, and they used what looked like a tube of lock tite on each caliper bolt.had to wrench on it by hand cause the outlet in the garage wouldnt run a compressor. 40 mins , 2 guys and a couple beers to back out 2- 1 inch long bolts.I used stoptechs drilled and slotted rotors with centrics fleet performance pads.so far dry(empty truck ) they grab quicker when cold. will see how they do towing a tandem dump trailer with a couple tons of material in it.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
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make sure when u do the ones on the back, if the rotors are hard to get off, take the rubber boot out from the dust shield and loosen the nut and adjust the shoes so they are as far in as they can go. otherwise, u could pull the studs right through the backingplates, like i did.
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