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I removed my 6 volt horn and mistakenly moved the adjusting nut down in the bezel, now it will not work, anyone know the gap spacing or factory setting on the gap<
The two contacts look like the round contacts found on the ignition spark gap.
Thanks much, yes I did try with 0.10" and went from there I found the sweet spot and it worked, but it gave me very little +or - play on the adjustment. About 1/10th of a turn on the nut it would not work but brought it back and found the spot again.
The horn is 100% original its great to get it working
Ben:
I bought the truck about 3 years ago, drove it into my garage and started all the work.
Completely rewired it, brand new fuel system including pump, tank, fuel lines and had the single barrel carb rebuilt.
Complete brand new brake system including master cylinder, wheel cylonders pads, springs the works.
Completely brand new cooling system, powder coated bumpers, rims and added new donuts.
Brand new tailgate and running boards
Bought 85% of all parts from Macs antique auto parts and LMC good people to work with.
Hey Mike,
It's a nice looking truck - great work! I like the original look - mine was "updated" in the 70's so there was no hope of an original looking truck.
Ben:
My goal was to keep the truck 100% authentic to that year. The truck was in the body shop for 12 weeks, there was no body rust but many little dents. When I dicided on a color from 48 I also decided on a base coat and a generous clear coat.
When the truck was put back together the new running boards (steel) fit like a glove including the tailgate, all from Macs Antique Auto Parts.
I had a local Ford dealer in Springfield, Pa. do the job and it turned out fantastic.