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Anafiel's Podunk Man-Cave Project

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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #16  
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From: Wagener, SC
Originally Posted by lavatan
Are you going to put a door on the opening (garage or otherwise)? I'm assuming you'll be widening that opening so you can pull the truck in there.
It's already got a door of sorts, as you can see in the first pic. As for widening it, I'd have to remove that 4x6 that's currently supporting the door, and the front of the roof. I guess I could do that at some point, but that big assed board is firmly embedded into the bedrock. Believe me, it's the strongest part of the whole lean-to! You can see it in the pic looking out from the inside.

But wouldn't it be great to pull the front end of the truck inside... Let's leave that for later, and give it some thought meanwhile.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #17  
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From: Wagener, SC
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
So, you want a really wavy wall?


I'm not sure it would work, but the only way it would work is for your joints in the OSB not to be the joints between the pallets. But, wouldn't that raise the floor up quite a bit? How thick are the pallets you are thinking of?

Not sure about the pallet thickness yet, but I could remove dirt to lower the floor, right? That way I could get rid of all the dusty stuff so's I would have a firmer base.

And yea, I had already thought that I would have to stagger the seams. I'm just looking for a cheap way to get a floor in there.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 06:32 PM
  #18  
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When I get caught up, I plan on finishing my man cave.

If you want to make quick, insulated, and free to cheap walls...use damaged insulated garage doors. I closed in one side of my fathers barn with them and am also building my cave the same way. Check with your area door company. They usually fill the dumpsters up with the remove and haul jobs. They are super easy to cut down and you just run a lag screw through them into your posts. I put mine non detail side out. This way I can trim them out with 1x4 to make them have a nice barn look.


They can be made to look like this.


This is the non detail side
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 06:34 PM
  #19  
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I'll betcha a dollar that if the pallets are lower than or resting on the dirt, they'll rot out faster'n wildcat goin' down a pipe fulla raw meat.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:06 PM
  #20  
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From: Wagener, SC
Originally Posted by Leaf
I'll betcha a dollar that if the pallets are lower than or resting on the dirt, they'll rot out faster'n wildcat goin' down a pipe fulla raw meat.
Maybe set 'em up on red brick? I got a pile of those out behind the chicken coup...
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:00 PM
  #21  
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Getting the pallets level will be hard I'll bet.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:46 PM
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The pallets will become critter condo's faster than you can get them level.
If you like skunks, rats, groundhogs and the like go right ahead.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:55 PM
  #23  
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From: Wagener, SC
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
The pallets will become critter condo's faster than you can get them level.
If you like skunks, rats, groundhogs and the like go right ahead.
Ok, so what then? Wife won't get off the checkbook for concrete. How do I do a wood floor?

I've already unseated MouseNation and installed my own little dictatorship, so how do I prevent a 'possum coup?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 10:06 PM
  #24  
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You are better off leveling a bed of road base, item 4 or whatever you call it in your neck of the woods.
It is crushed stone of various sizes and compacts well.
If you need a solid surface to use a floor jack or the like just lay down a sheet of plywood.
Animals don't like to dig in that stuff, and they won't find a ready made burrow like there would be if you had pallets down.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 10:26 PM
  #25  
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I've been thinking about your flooring issue and you could do a combination of the crushed rock and a wood floor. Lay the 2x4s in a 16 on center configuration. Pour crushed rock in between the boards. That way you have a solid floor but don't have to worry about critters. Just dig out the dirt 3 1/2" to compensate for the wood.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:16 PM
  #26  
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In addition to the other previously mentioned reasons against a pallet base for the floor, am I the only one who thinks the pallets won't be tough enough? Once he gets the door wide enough to pull the truck inside I can see the pallets giving way in short order.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:46 PM
  #27  
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You want some type of small gravel with a lot fly ash and soot in it.

screenings gravel - Google Search

This stuff is perfect and I bet you could get a load of it delivered for $250-$300. It packs down and gets extremely hard. When I say gets hard, I mean my dad parked a tri axle dumptruck on them for 25yrs. You want to put a lot more in than it looks like you will need b/c it is going to pack down about 40-50%. You can even grade yourself a little ramp to pull the truck in on.

A wood floor of any kind is going to rot in the dirt. I wouldnt waste the effort.

We need some better pics of the post you want to move. Get some pics of how its in the ground as well as how its attached at the top.

In order to frame a wall up it will have to be sitting on something at the bottom. If the dirt is packed reall tight perhaps you could wrap the bottom with some heavy plastic sheating to keep it from rotting out or it would need to be set up on bricks or blocks. Either way if the ground isnt packed it wont sit straight for very long.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
You are better off leveling a bed of road base, item 4 or whatever you call it in your neck of the woods.
It is crushed stone of various sizes and compacts well.
If you need a solid surface to use a floor jack or the like just lay down a sheet of plywood.
Animals don't like to dig in that stuff, and they won't find a ready made burrow like there would be if you had pallets down.
My local rock/gravel company has reground asphalt. Compacts well and if you put driveway sealer over it, it is just like a new asphalt driveway. I paid $5 for as much as I was willing to put in my Superduty's bed. 3 loads was enough to do my RV parking area(40'x12'). And as far as jacking, I just keep some scraps of plywood around.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Stangrcr1
My local rock/gravel company has reground asphalt.
We call that 'process'.
I don't think it compacts as well as item-4, but I never considered using driveway sealer as a binder.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #30  
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I don't think removing the center post is a big issue.
The rafters look like 2x4.
Sister it up with a 2x8 and find some bearing at the shed and exterior wall.
A gable, or the slope of a shed roof, shouldn't be bearing any weight anyhow.
 
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