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First time with base clear

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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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First time with base clear

I am going to be doing some base clear type painting on my 64F100s grille, bumper, and mirrors and was looking for some timps and advice on laying this.

I am not completely virgin with painting. I have shot several pannels and trailers with both acrylic and urathane single stages so I understand basic gun control and the like.

I will be using a basic bottom cup gun. I do not like top cups as the weight on high makes them difficult to control at times. So please do not insist on HVLP as I aint going there.

Mainly I am intrested in surface prep, between coats, guestamate dry times between coats and any other help. I will be using the nason line by dupont and am very, very insistant on using their etch primer as I find it wonderful.

Also, I will be shooting base colors with no metal flake or effect whatsover.

Thanks for any help guys,
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 04:14 PM
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you will have to put a primer sealer or primer surfacer over the etch primer before topcoating with basecoat.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by gt350h
you will have to put a primer sealer or primer surfacer over the etch primer before topcoating with basecoat.
They tell you not to , But , If it is dry long enough You can .. I have painting over it for 20 or so years with 0 issues ...
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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Mainly I am intrested in surface prep, between coats, guestamate dry times between coats and any other help. I will be using the nason line by dupont and am very, very insistant on using their etch primer as I find it wonderful.
First place to start is with the paint manufacturers P-sheets. They will tell you everything you need to know about prep, mixing, flash time, re-coat times and so forth. I stick with PPG DPLF and SS Concept and their P-sheets tell me everything I need to know
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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Uhhh, I guess that guy's been doing it for 20 years without a problem. But, almost every single one of the paint maufacturers say absolutely don't do it. I checked Nason on the tech sheets and it says not to do it. I believe the reason is because etch primers are very thin and basecoats are full of solvents. The solvents in the basecoat pull the pigment out of the etch and cause staining in your paint. I've seen people spray white single stage over bondo with red hardener before and you can see exactly where it was. I'm guessing something similar to that. Hopefully that's all that would happen. If it comes off in sheets at the pressure washer then you'll know staining wasn't the reason they told you not to do it!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 02:38 AM
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First of all boys my paint supplier recomended that I use a sealer and get full coverage.

P sheets? Should I ask for them?

Nice to see you elsewhere TBM. Always good to see a familiar face.

Please keep it coming.
 

Last edited by flipklos; Jan 6, 2012 at 02:39 AM. Reason: more stuff
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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A good paint store prints out the sheets and includes them every purchase. If they don't, ask for them. Due to bad eyes and poor lighting, I have accepted the fact I personally can't shoot clearcoat.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 09:56 AM
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yep, you should get sheets. they've got all the answers you're looking for and that stuff can vary from brand to brand.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gt350h
But, almost every single one of the paint maufacturers say absolutely don't do it. I checked Nason on the tech sheets and it says not to do it. I believe the reason is because etch primers are very thin and basecoats are full of solvents. The solvents in the basecoat pull the pigment out of the etch and cause staining in your paint. I've seen people spray white single stage over bondo with red hardener before and you can see exactly where it was.
I'm pretty sure you are right about the reason .I Based with Deltron DBU (Light & dry ) trying to duplicate the look of the finish ,underneath the clear (very bumpy) .

In the Lacquer days I used to see bleed through all the time from fillers & red oxide primers...Even after it was sealed (PPG sealer70)

I use it first & last. To uniform a blend because it is thin & light . Then Bake it .

I Can't use it here anymore as of last year . It doesn't pass EPA .. We went 100 % compliant
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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Is it not passing EPA in your area because of VOC's or because it contains Chrome? There are non-chrome etch primers now that work great if that's the reason.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gt350h
Is it not passing EPA in your area because of VOC's or because it contains Chrome? There are non-chrome etch primers now that work great if that's the reason.
Its the Chromium, I'm now using A compliant primer .. Transtar ...

What are you using ?..
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by flipklos
First of all boys my paint supplier recomended that I use a sealer and get full coverage.

P sheets? Should I ask for them?

Nice to see you elsewhere TBM. Always good to see a familiar face.

Please keep it coming.
I don't know about Nason (Dupont?) but the PPG website has all the P-sheets for all their products online as pdf. files. I have around 20 of them downloaded into my document file.

An example:

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...5-a3e7439ebd2c
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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Oddly , looking at your avatar ...I got started using dupont acid etch on the first airplane I painted .. it was the adhesion & the weight of the material that led me to use it
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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PPG has a great etch primer in their Delfleet line called F4940. It is a non-chrome pigmented etch primer. It actually has a small amount of build to it so you can see it when you're spraying it on.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gt350h
PPG has a great etch primer in their Delfleet line called F4940. It is a non-chrome pigmented etch primer. It actually has a small amount of build to it so you can see it when you're spraying it on.
I have seen that , its kind of spendy though...
 
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