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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

engine break in stand wiring critique

Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:19 AM
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engine break in stand wiring critique

got my break-in stand nearly complete... some plumbing to do. Most of the wiring is complete now... throttle is mounted in the red slot and all the gauges and meters are installed

just wanted to get a few gurus to look at my wiring diagram and see if I've included any major blunders or if you have any suggestions for changes...

thanks
John

article will follow when time permits
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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looks good..

I am doing that setup to start my new engine as test until I get the wiring run.. no gauges, and the fan isn't mounted yet. (radiator not mounted yet)
my On and Start are all one switch (std keyed ignition switch)

Sam
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:37 AM
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Looks good, John. My only suggestion would be to perhaps run the hot lead to the fan switch independent of the main switch. That way, if you wanted to continue running the fan after shutting the engine down, you don't have to turn the main switch back on to do so.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:49 AM
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dang Sam... you should have built it first and I could have borrowed yours !!

good idea Wayne.... that's just one wire to change

john
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jniolon
dang Sam... you should have built it first and I could have borrowed yours !!

good idea Wayne.... that's just one wire to change

john
but my 'stand' is a whole 56 truck chassis and body!

Sam
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 11:11 AM
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How about a big red push to kill switch on top of the control panel
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Looks good. All you need now are tires.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
Looks good, John. My only suggestion would be to perhaps run the hot lead to the fan switch independent of the main switch. That way, if you wanted to continue running the fan after shutting the engine down, you don't have to turn the main switch back on to do so.
Yeah...."me too" but the Electrical Engineer in me would force me to go to an appliance parts shop and buy a simple thermostat-switch (or an adjustable one) and use it to operate the fan so it will always come on when needed and shut off when not! Just "hot-wire" it directly to the A+ (BATT) !


Don't forget fuses and/or circuit breakers!



Cheers,


Rick
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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???????

so Rick ??? what would you fuse...??? the fan ??? what else
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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Geez, what a show-off!

I broke in my engine in the truck, like Sam did.

But, I can hardly wait to see the do-over!
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jniolon
???????

so Rick ??? what would you fuse...??? the fan ??? what else
"fuse" all the low current circuits. 10A or less. use a separate fuse for the radiator fan. (it'll probably be a 50A or so?) there's really no way to fuse a starter but you can fuse the starter relay (solenoid control side of it)

I would use the following fan control for the fan and maybe use it for the truck when you get ready to install it...

Flex-a-lite 31147 Flex-a-lite Adjustable Temp Control Switch
It's only about $30
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Geez, what a show-off!

I broke in my engine in the truck, like Sam did.

But, I can hardly wait to see the do-over!
Wait.... you mean he is going to have a second break in stand??
why am I helping him with the first one?!!..

I had to break in my engine twice too.. once with bad assembly..
once better..

folks here suggested/convinced me (twisted my arm, ouch!) that a dyno run would be a/the good way..

and it sure worked perfectly..

but I didn't get a freakin breakin stand out of it!..

sam
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Geez, what a show-off!

I broke in my engine in the truck, like Sam did.

But, I can hardly wait to see the do-over!
you don't come around for months... then it's just to scrape the scab off and get it bleedin again, huh RJ ??? I hope there won't be any do overs on the engine... I would break mine in on the frame, but that's another problem... I'll let Sam tell you about so you can scrape some more

Sam, I'm considering a dyno run... after breakin... if the $$$ are available, it'll give me something to do while I"m stretching the frame up front

Wayne, there are only two real circuits... ignition, fan. The lighting circuit is just three 12 volt gauge bulbs. Inline holders wouldn't hurt probably... It's not like we're gonna run this thing up to 2K and go have a cup of coffee... the throttle probably won't leave my hand. Plan A... see smoke, hit the kill switch... Maybe Penn Dick had the right idea.

there is also an outside change of a box fan hanging in front of the radiator

later
john
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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I was lucky, I found a guy that charged me only $250 for a whole day.
9 runs, including the breakin run.

Sam
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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don't think I'll find a deal like that around here... $$$ I hear is 400 and up depending on time on machine and setup time

j
 
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