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bad fuel pump?

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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 06:51 AM
  #16  
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redman84
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In addition concerning e fuel. Credible sources have said that the mechanical pump can effectively run up to stage II injectors. The biggest benefit to me, who will probably never run larger than my stage Is, is the simplification of leak detection and repair, clearing of the engine valley, and ease of component R&R. I don't NEED it but for those reasons I WANT it. When finished my system will also cost less than half of a commercially produced one. It won't have a nice walbro pump and I'm keeping stock size fuel lines but it will serve my purpose with no problem.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 07:39 AM
  #17  
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A kit is fairly simple to DIY if you know what you are looking for.

Yes clearing out the engine valley is one of the biggest benefits.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 04:51 PM
  #18  
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thanks redman, i realized that i need to pull the bowl. i was trying to avoid it but i need to get it done. ive pulled the bowl in the past and i wasent haveing a great time lol but yeah did you soak the fpr with carb cleaner? well it be safe to rin the carb cleaner through the lines and stuff? i also have a compressor that i can use to blow it all out. but im not sure if its safe.. what do you think?

and no ian i didnt getter running yet

but today im going to give it another shot... i hope i getter goin again guys.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bruno2
A kit is fairly simple to DIY if you know what you are looking for.

Yes clearing out the engine valley is one of the biggest benefits.
ive seen the electric fuel kit from beans but its really pricey. but i plan on getting hybrids 238's in the future. they say there kit works well with them so im going to look into it. or maby just build my own.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #20  
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redman84
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I would definitely not run any cleaner through the lines. And thinking of it I used brake parts cleaner but whatever. I don't know about blowing pressurized air through it. Maybe somebody else can say on that. I just dismantled everything and cleaned it best as possible.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #21  
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Dont blow pressure into the tank or you will be dropping it and putting a new gasket around the sending unit.You could blow air through it from the switch valve forward, but , take the cap off of the fuel filter housing so you arent pressuring it up past the filter.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Ctkallday666
ive seen the electric fuel kit from beans but its really pricey. but i plan on getting hybrids 238's in the future. they say there kit works well with them so im going to look into it. or maby just build my own.
Make no mistake about it. Putting your own kit together may very well save a couple of hundred bucks, but , you are going to pay some coin for the parts. The fuel pump is about $200-$250. The regualtor will be around $175-$200. The filter head and filter $50. Then the fuel line and fittings will be $75. So the kits are somewhat justifiable as far as the price goes , but, it can be done cheaper. The people selling the kits are taking advantage of customers not knowing the specs of the components. So offering a kit seems to be somewhat soothing to people who arent sure.


I bought mine from Swamps and looking back I could have done it myself and saved a little dough. If anybody gets into a position to where they want to do a DIY electric fuel conversion hit me up and we will start a thread dealing with it. I can walk anyone through it b/c its really simple. Whoever wants to do it needs to reserve like week for locating and rounding up parts to do it with b/c there are a lot of fittings to gather and we need to have the components on hand to what style of fitting is needed for the particular component. Such as if the pump uses flare fitting or NPT and so on and so forth. A bracket will have to be made to mount the pump and filter head to the frame.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:14 PM
  #23  
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I don't remember who this is for but here ya go

 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:28 PM
  #24  
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That's Jeffrey's(Bad12jr)
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #25  
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Sure is.....
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:32 PM
  #26  
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I dont know how old those prices are , but , napa doesnt have a filter head under $28.00. I just tried to get one from them and they were high. Like $50.00 high. I had them price match an online ad I had. Probably wouldnt hurt for someone to call and check on pricing to see how accurate those are.

Here is what an online estimate is for the 4309.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...309_0331367807

Here is the pump in the specs:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

This is whats coming up for the 4913 part #:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...913_0331373503
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #27  
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I just got 4913 for $41.89 4409 $25.99 3123 $10.99
If you go by the website it says 4913 is $72.69
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:04 PM
  #28  
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NAPA AUTO PARTS | PART DETAILS
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #29  
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I need to go through and revise that as I want to change a couple things about mine. But that is the bulk of the parts using mainly stock flowing components. My biggest thing to change is the fitting and lines feeding the back of the heads to do away with the o-ring fitting. Id like to make a short stainless line a JIC style fitting to seal better. Similar to the RR kit that Irate sells.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 11:13 PM
  #30  
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redman84
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I'm trying to keep a nice build sheet like Jeffrey's for folks to check out. I'm not aware of sponsers carrying any of these things so I'll post up some of what I've found. If it steps on any toes speak up and I'll delete.
Stanadyne FM100 w 3/8" ports and 30 micron element $46.65
33641 Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM100 Pre-filter Assembly with 3/8" NPTF ports & 4.3" 30-micron element (31865)=
Napa 4770 base $20
Wix & Napa Filters & Accessories: FleetFilter Secure Online Store?
Napa Gold 3528 2 micron filter $9
Wix 33528 & Napa 3528 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store=
I think that stuff will work well. Yall may know better than m
 
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