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no start after injector install

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  #31  
Old 01-05-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000ca250
Ok thanks clay. Just checked the tracking and the AE should be here in an hour or two. When I call the office which extension do I want, the sales one?
Yeah, that should be fine.
 
  #32  
Old 01-05-2012, 03:30 PM
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Depending on when the AE gets here, I might not be able to dig into it tonight as I work the night shift tonight, but if I dont have time tonight I'll definitely be giving you a call tomorrow in the middle of the day probably.
 
  #33  
Old 01-05-2012, 06:50 PM
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Exclamation

I have a datalog from AE, but I have no idea how to post the file up to here so here are the cliff notes. Basically When cranking I am building ICP but immediately as I crank my battery voltage with known good batteries goes from 11.8 to 10.4. It stays at 10.4 for the duration of cranking. It did this repeatedly with the batteries returning to 11.6-8 after cranking every time. This seems a little low from where they should be, but dropping 1.2-5 volts while cranking seems a bit strange.

Wondering if I might have a bad or high resistance starter solenoid? I know the starter is good seeing as I just replaced it with a brand new one.

Also, how does the PCM register voltage? Would it be possible for the PCM to be reading incorrect voltage or lower voltage than it actually is? If so, how would this occur or be corrected?


Heres a screen shot of the datalog. The separate yellow and oranges are the different cranks. I hid the info from between them so that I could fit the different cranks into the screen shot. If someone can tell me how to upload a file to here I can upload all the data I have.

Left to right columns are as follows:

ICP PSI, ICP DC%, ICP Volts, Vehicle Voltage, Engine RPM's

 

Last edited by 2000ca250; 01-05-2012 at 07:07 PM. Reason: resized and cropped picture
  #34  
Old 01-05-2012, 07:32 PM
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So, does the truck almost start every 5 seconds? The drip in ICP/IPR makes it look like the computer thought the truck was going to or already started.

The voltage drop looks normal enough, but if you plan on doing a bunch of cranking while diagnosing this, keep the batteries on a charger so voltage doesn't drop any lower.
 
  #35  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:01 PM
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There is a bunch of time between cranks....I just hid that data so that I could fit a majority of the attempts at cranking into the screenshot. It seems like the injectors are not even firing. I can crank and crank and crank and it wont even start smoking at all. I believe because the voltage drops below 10.5 the pcm wont even call for the injectors to fire. Ill get it jumped by a buddies truck tomorrow and data log that and see if it changes anything
 
  #36  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:06 PM
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Just seems strange that the voltage drops to 10.4 as soon as I start cranking. For comparison on Bryce's truck when he starts it voltage only drops to 10.8
 
  #37  
Old 01-05-2012, 08:28 PM
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My truck has always dropped to 10.3 to 10.4 before it starts. 10.5 is just a rule of thumb. The Ford manual says something like 8.5 for min. voltage. Go ahead and try the jump start to rule it out, but I don't think it's a voltage issue.
 
  #38  
Old 01-06-2012, 04:32 PM
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So I am about to go out and perform a Buzz Test to check the electrical side of the injectors as well as pull any codes from the IDM. While I have AE hooked up is there anything else that you guys think I should do?
 
  #39  
Old 01-06-2012, 06:04 PM
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Buzz test results:

FAIL
P1668 PCM/IDM Communications failure


Looks like the snow is moving in, so I'm going to pack it up for the day, but planning to pull the PCM tomorrow and check the connection. After talking to Clay it seems I might have a bent pin on the connector between the PCM and Harness. Relieving to finally have a bit of a better grasp on what the problem is. Hopefully tomorrow she will fire right up.
 
  #40  
Old 01-06-2012, 08:25 PM
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Found the problem.

2 bent pins on the PCM and one pushed in completely. Any chance it can be salvaged? Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new PCM...
 
  #41  
Old 01-06-2012, 08:27 PM
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Did you disconnect the PCM to change the injectors?

Pull the PCM out and try to very, very gently straighten the pins. The worst that can happen is you break one and the truck won't start. Since the truck won't start anyway, what have you got to lose?
 
  #42  
Old 01-06-2012, 09:02 PM
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PCM is out and I am attempting to straighten out the pins. I had to pull the PCM to pull my DP chip after the injector install because hte previous owner decided not to cut out the black plastic making the chip a pain in the *** to pull. Going to keep messing with the PCM to try and get the pins back to normal, but its not looking good.

Any suggestions where to get a new PCM for my truck? Already talked to Clay and he doesnt have any for my truck in stock right now.
 
  #43  
Old 01-06-2012, 09:04 PM
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make sure you have the batt's disconnected when playing with anything electronic, you probably know this already
 
  #44  
Old 01-06-2012, 09:27 PM
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Bartshi are in the garage....makes for way more room when working on it
 
  #45  
Old 01-07-2012, 12:08 AM
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IT RUNS.

A pair of needle nose pliers and the pins got bent straight. Put the PCM in and Using my buddies known good batteries she fired right up after a few attempts as would be expected after injector change. Wish I would have thought to just pull the PCM and check that connector a week ago instead of just checking to make sure it wasnt loose. Oops, well I guess you live and you learn.

Unfortunately I am not out driving it around because after taking it for a few short test drives Bryant needed to head home.

I saw a few test drives because we kept blowing boots off!!! Clay, I'm going to be calling you tomorrow to see if we can take care of that problem. The one WOT run I got set a SES with my HPOP not being able to keep up, so thank god i have a set of twin termies ready to install!
 


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