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Starter relay problems,(hillbilly wiring)

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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 06:07 PM
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Starter relay problems,(hillbilly wiring)

Disconnected all of the stock wiring on the 52.I put a 60s era starter relay on it with a push button to start it just to move it around. When i was doing this with the original 6-volt relay with a hot wire from battery positive to coil,started fine.With later relay and hot wire from ignition post to coil,it will start then die.Run a jumper wire from battery to coil and runs fine. Any ideas as to what i am doing wrong?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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You need to do a search for starter and ignition diagrams that will show you how they go. Or maybe somebody will take time to put some up here for you. This forum is full of them ,try a search.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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Thanks. Thought i could figure it out on my own.got to be simple, sure i am overlooking something.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 04:52 AM
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If i got this clear in my head,the 12-volt system gets its 6-volt run fire from another source.For some reason i was thinking that on a Ford the relay swapped from 12-volt start to 6-volt run at the same post.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 07:53 AM
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As you've found out, no it does not swap voltages at the "I" post on the starter relay. That post on the relay is energized only when the relay is closed during cranking. It's dead at all other times. On the later vehicles that would have used the relay you have, power was supplied to the coil directly from the ignition switch through a resistor wire under the dash. This arrangement supplies the coil with a reduced voltage for all running conditions except starting. Another wire runs from the "I" terminal of the relay and ties into the reduced voltage coil feed under the hood. The purpose of that branch of the coil feed circuit is to supply a full 12 volts to the coil for a hotter spark only while the engine is cranking. If your only power feed for the coil is from the "I" terminal on the relay, then it will fire and start when you crank it over, but die as soon as you quit cranking.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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do a search for Julies Cool F1 - that user is no longer with us, but he (it's a he, not a she) left us some great wiring drawings. You'll find a good side by side 6v versus 12v ignition diagram.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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Thanks,that is what i had come to.Being that i am only trying to do a very basic start/run and later charge system,whats is an easy way to get voltage stepped down to the coil?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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First, my coil is a external or non-resistor 12V coil. So I just run an ceramic ignition resistor on the firewall in the wire from the ignition switch to the coil. I go to NAPA and tell them I need a resistor for a 71 Plymouth. That's what I've been running for the past 11 years.

Or you could run a internal resisted 12V coil and take care of it that way.

Both accomplish the same thing and keep the points from burning. Voltage to the points is around 4.5V.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:44 PM
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Thanks.the chyrsler block is what i was considering,but i may have a resistor coil layingg around.
 
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