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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #16  
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fuel filter was changed when i bought the truck, ive put about 10,000 miles on it. when i bought the truck i did all fluids, plugs, clean all the fuel injectors and intake. ill look around for vacuum leaks.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NorthTitan33
where can i find proper resistance for my plugs? and it's the resistance between the two ends?
Wires would be between the two ends.... not the plugs. Plugs are between the contact(tip where the wire plugs) and the metal body (part with the threds).... DO NOT TOUCH THE LEADS WITH YOUR FINGERS WHEN TESTING! Your multi meter may give a false reading of resistance through your body.

A good plug will give you an open or infinity. Bad ones will give you any resistance reading. Just a note... you can also do this without removal of the plugs.
***DISCLAIMER***
because you dont find a bad one with the resistance check doesnt mean there is not a bad electrode in there...

Hope this helps
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:41 PM
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ok so ill try that to. its dark and chilly here so I am going to stop for tonight, I've been running in and out from my truck to try and do ideas that are brought up. MAF sensor looked clean but I cleaned it anyways. (very gently) cause that little wire on it is SMALL!!!

I was reading through 2003 f250's posts during his problem and I noticed someone mentioned about moisture in under the COP boots. I had moisture under the ones I checked but didn't even consider it cause I was thinking about other things, like don't break my injectors. We have had really high humidity here lately, could the moisture under the boots be the problem?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by NorthTitan33
ok so ill try that to. its dark and chilly here so I am going to stop for tonight, I've been running in and out from my truck to try and do ideas that are brought up. MAF sensor looked clean but I cleaned it anyways. (very gently) cause that little wire on it is SMALL!!!

I was reading through 2003 f250's posts during his problem and I noticed someone mentioned about moisture in under the COP boots. I had moisture under the ones I checked but didn't even consider it cause I was thinking about other things, like don't break my injectors. We have had really high humidity here lately, could the moisture under the boots be the problem?
It depends... but the simple answer is yes. depends on where under the boot, and if you treated the plugs with dielectric grease and what-not...
the simple answer is yes it can, but without seeing it Its impossible for us armchair quaterbacks to say for sure.

Mark
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #20  
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ok ill give all that a whirl tomorrow, basically remove all my plugs and clean all the crap out of there and dry it out. and recoat.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NorthTitan33
ok ill give all that a whirl tomorrow, basically remove all my plugs and clean all the crap out of there and dry it out. and recoat.
dont forget the resistance check's... are you sure you got a handle on how to do this.... like what an open and continuity/resistance is? and make sure you dont skimp on the dielectric grease

Mark
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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ya im mechanically inclined. ill have to get more grease.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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alright, good luck. i hope its a simple fix... keep us posted
Mark
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 11:42 AM
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Well have driver side of the Engines fuel system ripped apart. Nothing way out of the ordinary. Plugs all showed open continuity. What's resistance on my injectors and coils supposed to be? My plugs are all NGK Iridiums and they look fine. I'll take pictures and post em.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 11:57 AM
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coil packs can be between 5000-15000 ohms. I would look for one that is different from the rest. since this is an intermitient problem, they may test fine. coil packs can be influenced by engine heat and only act different when at operating temps... we have in the past used a hot plate to try and replicate these intermitient faults that were thought to be affected by heat of the engine. If the plugs are out do a resistance check on the plugs again, this time from the tip where the wire attaches to the tip of the electrode. again look for a different reading from the majority.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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fuel injectors should be between 11-18 ohms, but this test, its recomended that it be done on a warm engine. 100 degrees-ish...
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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Well I can't figure out how to upload pictures, it's asking for a hyperlink. Hmmm. But I also did plugs from the contact where the wire attaches to the little electrode tip and it still read open, which didn't seem right, but that's what I got and tried many times on all of them. All of my injectors are right around 15.0 ohms.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by NorthTitan33
Well I can't figure out how to upload pictures, it's asking for a hyperlink. Hmmm. But I also did plugs from the contact where the wire attaches to the little electrode tip and it still read open, which didn't seem right, but that's what I got and tried many times on all of them. All of my injectors are right around 15.0 ohms.
And the coils?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #29  
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do i measure between the two wires that the connector attaches to?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #30  
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ok so i measured between the spring in the bottom to a tip in the connector and got from number 5 back in Kohms. 5.21, 5.27, 5.25, 5.29, 5.25
 
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