Guys, I got a 1996 f-450 with a 460 engine.

The passenger side Exhaust Manifold seems to be leaking. Is this a common problem? Its very tricky to tell, and I've looked at it and tried to troubleshoot where its leaking from a few times already. But the guys at Lou's Custom Exhaust w/ their stethoscope, said its got to be a crack. I was hoping for an o-ring, but they said no.
Whats peculiar is they never tried to plug the tail-pipe while trying to trace the location of the leak.. even after I suggested it a few times. They said it was not necessary and they only needed the stethoscope, and wouldn't do it. With the stethoscope pointer and the truck up on a lift, it was even hard for them to get it up way up to next to the manifold to where they were pretty sure it was leaking from. They tried to show me from underneath and even let me hear. I hope they are telling the truth.

Do I have to be careful who does this, and is finding a good, qualified, and trustworthy mechanic who will do this job correctly, hard to find?

I think there are tubes coming off the back of the manifold.. Could they be broken or leaking and need replacement, and is it maybe less major a job than they are proposing? Maybe its the tubes..?

Any advice and info guys?

PARTS:
How much parts do I need? Someone told me its best even if its just the gasket.. to replace the manifold with a new one. Anyone know how much and where is a good place to order the parts from?

Thank you for the guidance guys. I need to find someone to do this.. and I really want it done right so that its reliable, and doesnt go leaking again. I dont want this thing sounding like a beater!!. (Its in a big truck w/ manual transmission.) thanks guys.

 

The manifold are "common" to crack on these trucks. There is NO GASKET from the factory. The only reason a gasket is used is when the manifold warps and it will no longer seal to the head. No gasket is best, there is no chance of it blowing out. Dorman makes aftermarket manifolds but nothing is the quality of ford ones. I have replaced my friends manifolds on his 97 F250 3 years in a row. The original ones lasted 100k and 12 years, the aftermarket ones are only lasting 1 year and 8k


As for the air tubes leaking, yes that is another possibility. Chances are when replacing the manifolds, the tubes will just crumble, so plan on getting those too .

As for getting the parts, that typically is left to the shop that is going to do the repairs. other wise it would be like going into the diner and handing them eggs and say cook theses. Some times shops will work with you bringing in used parts

I have a pair of Factory Ford Manifolds I pulled off my 96 @ 44k. If you are interested, just PM me.

 

Check to see if it popped a head off a manifold bolt. I had a '96 F350 and it broke a head off the bolt. It leaked when cold, but would quiet down after warmed up. The bolts they use are very thin and with the heat cycling and stretching they will finally pop the head off. Typical of the newer mod motors in trucks. Have a buddy with V10 with same issue(missing bolt head).

Pretty much have to pull manifold to get broken stud out of head. Those crossover tubes will likely get damaged in the process.

 

Guys, I'm getting ready to replace this manifold. Do you know if those air tubes are commonly available from the average parts store? I have forgotten to price these. I better not do the job until I have all of these on hand..

Btw, a friend is trying to tell me to just cut all the nuts off of all 8 studs, take the manifold off, and then remove the studs with a pair of vice grips. That way im not at risk of breaking any in the block. Another friend however is telling me that thats a bad idea.. and to just heat up each nut "cherry-red" and carefully take each one off, he says I should be fine, and I'll get them all off with no problems as long as I heat each one up first. He says to use a 'turbo-tip' from Home depot on a propane bottle..

I hope I dont run into problems doing this?

Guys, so should I just go with the Dorman from Advanced for 180bucks,, or buy your used one? Is it straight? thanks, ben

 

They are stainless. I would heat and work them out. DO NOT HEAT TILL RED

 

Thanks Brad!

But Do any of you know if those air tubes are commonly available from the average parts store? I have forgotten to price these. I WISH I COULD FIND A DIAGAM OF THE PARTS I WILL NEED associated with the air tubes. I better not do the job until I have all of these on hand..


I hope I dont run into too many problems..

Guys, do you think I should just go with the Dorman from Advanced for 180bucks,, or buy your used one Brad? Is it straight? I think theirs comes with studs and nuts too. thanks, ben

 

If you had a modular motor I'd say cut the heads off the bolts also, but that will be more hassle on a 460. You can put heat to the boss that the manifold bolts go into. Heat the cylinder head up, then try to back out the bolt.
This is going to be an unpleasant job. Take your time, use lots of heat.
I also suggest removing the inner fenders and crap so you have plenty of room to work.

 

I doubt those air tubes are available from anywhere other than ford. That is IF they still offer them

 

Do yours look like this:



Ford A.I.R. Rail (Left And Right Sides)

 

If you live where there is no emission testing, much cheaper to do away with those tubes and the cat.

If your truck still has its cat.

Manifolds will or at least should include plugs to block off the air tube ports.

Cutting off the bolt heads, that's how I do it. Cut them off sliding the manifold off whats left of the bolts. Allows for clear access to work removing the studs "left" with sticking out. Heat up the head little bit where bolt screws in, tightly clamp vise grips to meaty section of bolt and unscrew. Get it to move then flush with plenty of wd-40 liquid wrench what ever.
Never had that technique fail me, bolts some of them tend brake off any way. Cutting head off controls where that happens, leave full length minus head sticking out to work with. Rather then snap off flush with the head.

 

Should I just go with a new Dorman manifld for 180bucks?
danr1, does a 1996 require emissions testing in Mass? idk..
So it is easy to just do away with the tubes system all together? thanks

 

96 being obd2 (if it's obd2) will need to pass emissions test. As long as its not got a check engine light and it's not running rough it should be fine without the smog tubes. Just route your smog pump hose only into exhaust stream and you'll be fine.
Not obd2 you'll possibly need a roller test, but I thought 3 years back most mass inspection shops got rid of them. Hmm. But also you may be exempt because it's a heavy truck.
Go and ask a random emissions garage. I'm sure most are willing to talk, cause if you fail, it's a waste of their time and yours, and 2x the work for them.