When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I found this in the straight 6 section and wondered if anyone has done it to a 5.8?
Would it hurt or help?
Any issues with doing this?
Even easier than the EGR restrictor plate would be (from an earlier post).....
"Go a hardware store and get a couple of 3/4" diameter fender washers, one with a 5/32" hole in it, and the other with a 7/32" hole in it.
Loosen the tube nut on the EGR valve and slide it back a little and insert the fender washer with the 7/32" hole in between the EGR valve and the flange for the EGR tube then snug it all back up.
This will allow EGR to flow (at a reduced rate) into the system and keep the CEL light off.
Test drive your truck a couple of days. If there's the slightest hint of a stumble or hesitation, do the above again and replace the washer with the 7/32" hole in it with the other washer that has the 5/32" hole in it.
In a sense.....it's an inline EGR Restrictor Plate !!!!
My total cost for this fix was 34 cents....and that was for 2 washers !!!! "
Much easier to install---1 nut*** EGR Tube Nut *** to loosen/tighten
Already fabricated
Hidden from the smog *****' visual inspection
End result: eliminated the excess EGR flow and all the off-idle bogging the truck has always had is gone. Gas mileage is up, and so is the off-idle, in-town, and highway speed performance. There is no spark knock or change in coolant temp after the mod. No MILs either before or after the mod.
Computer has no clue to amount of actual EGR flow unless truck has the DPFE egr system.
If has the EVR/EVP system the washer would do nothing but mask an underlying issue with that system itself.
Make more sense to take few minutes correct the actual problem rather then put in a washer with a hole in it to hide it.
If its opening just off idle bogging from from the egr valve being opened at say a standing, even rolling start condition/s it shouldn't be, find out why it is and take a minute correct that instead.
EGR is active during "warm cruise" condition, not at any other time.
Computer has no clue to amount of actual EGR flow unless truck has the DPFE egr system.
Exactly, so for all pre '96 trucks you can completely block the EGR tube(like I did) with a penny inserted between the tube and manifold at the bottom and a piece of sheet metal between the valve and intake. The reason for blocking it at both ends it to eliminate the possibility of fresh air leaking into the intake should the EGR tube have a crack in it.. which was my problem. And I'm sure some would ask.. "well why not just take it all off if you're gonna block it completely?". The answer is you can't without setting codes and possibly a CE light, the EGR valve has to remain connected and functional to prevent this.
P.S. I have seen no impact on fuel milage or performance after doing this, and I have done it on both 5.0 and 5.8 motors.
I mean you would be replacing the missing egr with fresh air... The cylinders will only hold so much so of you reduce the exhaust gas wouldnt it cause there to be more fresh air to compensate?
I suppose that's technically true but overall the volume of EGR gas involved here is so small it makes little to no noticable difference in power or fuel consumption. With a gas analyzer inserted in the tailpipe you could probably see a difference but from the drivers seat you're not going to notice.