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I am doing it because I think at least one of my COPs is bad, it is way cheaper to have my shade tree guy do them all than it is to have the dealer figure out which is bad.
Originally Posted by ExxWhy
You can figure out which COP is bad with a simple code scanner. It won't trigger the CEL, but usually has left a code.
Well, ya beat me to it.
Scan for codes and you'll know exactly which COP is bad. Then you can buy one and pop it on yourself and really save money.
Scan for codes and you'll know exactly which COP is bad. Then you can buy one and pop it on yourself and really save money.
Stewart
I could have done that... I took a look at the coils and noticed that some had been replaced, there are a few different kinds in there, and some looked like they were probably the original coils. So I could try to trace down which one is bad, or I can just replace them all for a fresh start. My thinking is that if I just replace one now then another one will probably go sooner or later. Why not just replace them all? I got a whole set of coils for $94. I might buy another set for when one of these ones goes, then I'll have a back up when I am on a trip or something.
Now for the question, are you saying that any old cheapo code scanner will tell me exactly which plug is bad? If that is the case then I will buy a scanner and some more coils and keep them stored in the truck somewhere. I want to take a road trip in March and I don't want to get stuck somewhere with this thing running like crap and have to pay some dealership price to get it fixed.
Before you drop any cash on cheapo scanner, go to a chain auto parts store and they can try to scan the codes...unless you're in Calif. where they are not allowed to scan for you. Stupid CA law.
Before you drop any cash on cheapo scanner, go to a chain auto parts store and they can try to scan the codes...unless you're in Calif. where they are not allowed to scan for you. Stupid CA law.
Good call, and I was thinking about doing that, the local shops do scan for free. It just seems like less of a hassle to swap them all.
Before you drop any cash on cheapo scanner, go to a chain auto parts store and they can try to scan the codes...unless you're in Calif. where they are not allowed to scan for you. Stupid CA law.
If a dealer in CA can scan your codes, why can't any ASE repair shop (Pep Boys, etc.)? The only law on the books in CA I've heard of are products specifically designed to turn off the CEL light - the CA ARB is targeting those since they can bypass alerting the driver that an emissions problem exists - "defeat" devices. I doubt they'll ever outlaw the readers that can clear codes - I think they can only target "clear-only" devices.
I just called my local parts/repair store and they said that's crazy, they are totally allowed to read the code and tell you the DTC that caused the light to trip. If your CA shop is telling you they can't - it's not true, they just don't want to do it for you.
...in 1988 it was California that mandated ODB codes be accessible to owners - it makes no sense they would prohibit shops from providing that info to the driver.
I had gone to an Autozone here and that's what the guy said. They would loan me the scanner after I leave a deposit. I get it back when I returned it.
His explaination was that the clerk is not an emissions tech and CA law does not allow him to read codes unless he is certified. Sounds like the typical silly CA laws like eggs sold here must be from chickens that has room to spread it's wings in the coup.
That's why. It's not a legal issue as far as CA is concerned, that's AZ covering their butts against legal action if someone misinterprets the codes.
Go to a shop with a repair bay (check locally for a different AZ or PepBoys) and go there. They will have a repair tech (they have to be ASE certified) check the codes for you for free.
...or you can google the 'paper clip' trick. I used to do that on my Oldsmobile...you take a paper clip and jump two of the ODB pins and the service engine light blinks - longs = 10's, shorts = 1's. Not sure if it works on ODB2 or just ODB...might only work on ODB since the codes are shorter (2 digits).
After owning a Lincoln LS and then a 2000 Expedition, I became good at replacing coils. I have had the best luck with OEM coils, but they are 115$ from the dealer. The next best was accel. They seem to last about 1 yr, then they are done. I bought the ebay coils for the lincoln, and they lasted 3 weeks....sent them back, got a new set, 2 months later I did it again. If you can't afford motorcraft, then go accel.
BTW. The computer doesn't really know what cyl is misfiring. More times than not, mine would mistake cylinders. I would take a new coil and move it around till the missing stops.
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