When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Im going to be getting into UA 798 soon and will have to take the 6 leaker all over the country wherever the pipeline work is, going to do a bunch of things before I leave to hope there are no failures while I'm 2,000 miles away from home in the mountains, one is I want to replace the o rings on the standpipes but apparently you cant buy o rings anymore so I'll just buy the two standpipes and put them in.
My 2004 had the W oil rail so the standpipe on those were simple to remove
but the 2003 has the different cylinder shaped oil rail and the stand pipe has a steel braided hose connected to it right?
so question is, what are the steps after the valve covers are off to replace them?
Where the oil rails go into the injectors is one spot you can have a HPO leak on the '03. Not sure if you can replace the o-rings on the braided hose. Been a while since I was in there, and I can't remember where the o-ring was (female or male side of the coupling). The '03 aren't known for HPO leaks in the rails/standpipes.
Where the oil rails go into the injectors is one spot you can have a HPO leak on the '03. Not sure if you can replace the o-rings on the braided hose. Been a while since I was in there, and I can't remember where the o-ring was (female or male side of the coupling). The '03 aren't known for HPO leaks in the rails/standpipes.
I see, well I'll take your word on it if you are sure.
do you know how to replace the braided hose? I would imagine it is expensive
and when replacing the o ring inside the top of the injector can I just pop the old one out with a pick tool or do I need something special?
one more, could a icp sensor cause this symptom I am having with the longer crank when hot? or possibly a bad injector?
can be 25 degrees outside and the truck will fire in the morning with 1 glow cycle in a split second
but drive it for a half hour, shut it off and come back in ten minutes and it cranks for like 6-7 seconds before it starts, just seems like the beginning of something that might get worse down the road and I dont want to be across the country in the middle of no where when something on the truck decides to go
no codes I already checked, no gauges, I dont believe the ICP sensor was ever replaced, was kind of wondering if that could cause this
I resoldered my ficm, I think I have 1-2 injectors that are bad but I want to try t6 with some revx before I go into that currently using dino oil
that is odd ad without some kinda gaugwes I kinda think your shooting in the dark
the reason I dont think its oil relaited is everytime you shut it off it would Bleed off it is always hot upon shutdown and should bleed off everytime with that kinda issue
IDK lots of possibilties here IMO
you need a way to monitor ICP and IPR% to check the HPO system depending on the #s when it gets hot will be able to tell if it leaks
that is odd ad without some kinda gaugwes I kinda think your shooting in the dark
the reason I dont think its oil relaited is everytime you shut it off it would Bleed off it is always hot upon shutdown and should bleed off everytime with that kinda issue
IDK lots of possibilties here IMO
you need a way to monitor ICP and IPR% to check the HPO system depending on the #s when it gets hot will be able to tell if it leaks
I see, I think it is probably a stupid sensor, maybe when the ICP sensor gets warm it starts to malfunction who knows? not sure if I want to spend $160 on a scangauge right now so I guess we'll see what happens
I see, I think it is probably a stupid sensor, maybe when the ICP sensor gets warm it starts to malfunction who knows? not sure if I want to spend $160 on a scangauge right now so I guess we'll see what happens
Exactly it could be a few diffrent sensors or even FICM who knows
Electrical Hot & Cold is just bad JUJU it stresses everything and there a POS to diagnos
and there is nothing that says even if you buy a ScanGauge that you will be able to pinpoint the issue But it may help would be able to rule some things out at the minimum
Exactly it could be a few diffrent sensors or even FICM who knows
Electrical Hot & Cold is just bad JUJU it stresses everything and there a POS to diagnos
and there is nothing that says even if you buy a ScanGauge that you will be able to pinpoint the issue But it may help would be able to rule some things out at the minimum
agreed, do you know a substitute tool for disconnecting the oil lines underneath the valve covers? kind of random, I saw a picture of one and it looks like a clutch line disconnect tool, was wondering what you use since your trucks a 03