What do you mean by "won't start"? Nothing happens when you turn the key? It cranks but won't turn over and fire?

I had a slow/no start problem for a long time and I eventually discovered that my starter was on it's last leg killing my electrical system.

 

glad you got it working toob. Yes, I have gone through that diag check. Prob is that if you follow directions, with no DTC's there is nothing to check.

At this point I'm buying AE. If anyone on here is selling their ford bundle, feel free to shoot me an email to lukeloewen@live.com.

 

to respond to you brian, when I say "won't start" i'm referring to it cranks good and strong but won't fire. Every once in a while I get one little fire but that's it when it's good and cold. I had my batts load tested and they're good.

I doubt it's my starter but am willing to test it. Do I just watch volts as I crank? What should they be?

 

You can't really test a starter to check if it is good. They either crank the engine fast or they don't. Since they can be tested on a bench, you can only check that they work. No load is applied, so hard to tell if they are strong. You should be able to monitor RPM and you should see about 200 RPM with the starter cranking it.

Other than that, it is just better to get a new one if you even doubt the starter is the problem. Usually it is and you will be amazed at the difference.

 

That's funny, my name is Luke too! LOL, Yeah I got it running the other morning when it was only 12 degrees out. I just cycled the glow plugs 2 times and it started up without plugging it in over night. It was a little smokey and didn't like the cold start, but it still worked. I would never get my truck started prior. The only problem I have is that I am still getting check engine codes. I cleared them 3 times already and now I am getting P0677,76,75 and 72. And I know they are all working! Ugh, this is so frustrating! I just want the check engine light to go away.

Did I ask before, have you checked if there is power coming out of the GPCM. I checked it at the harness end that plugs into the under valve cover connector. Stuck a tiny flat screw driver into the end of that harness (to make contact), turned the key on, and checked it with a test light. You don't even need to pull off your air box for the driver side. Just had to hop up on the bumper and grab the harness and disconnect it.

 

Ok. Now to do some real testing! I got my autoenginuity, hooked it up last night and didn't really like what I saw, here are the codes that I feel are a problem:

U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit

Here are a few others that didn't come back when I cleared it and ran self tests etc. I am not worried about them but I'll let you experts tell me if I should be...

P0381 (GP heater indicator circuit) - think this was from me plugging/unplugging GPCM before I had AE
B1201
P0198 - EOT Hight - I checked live output on this and it looks to be accurate and changed with engine temp as I let it warm up.
P0603 internal Keep Alive Memory (probably when I let my batteries die installing LED's!)
P1139 Water in fuel - who knows how long ago before I owned it...

So...where do I go from here? What is odd is that with the self gp test I don't get any faults...

I am really concerned with the U1262 code as I have no idea how to test this. Could this be caused by a TW 6 pos chip being installed? Everything seems to work great on the truck except in cold start situations. I'd love to find out that the U1262 is just a ground or wire etc. Please help me with this.

Tomorrow morning I will be running the buzz test with the truck totally cold.

 

I have a GPCM from my truck you can have. It will throw a code 70% of the time, but that way you can rule out that yours works.

If I remember correctly the code is for a communication fault on my spare GPCM.

 

I wish I could change the name of my first post because it's a little misleading. I actually bought a new GPCM from ford and have already tried one from another truck. Neither fixed my problem so at this point I've begun looking elsewhere. Hence the purchase of the AE to see what's going on. Now I just have to figure out what it's telling me.

 

There are 2 SCP signal buses from the OBDII port to the PCM. There is an SCP Bus+ (Pin #1) and an SCP Bus- (Pin #10). U1262 might be an intermittent fault. If it were a hard fault you most lkely wouldn't be able to pull codes or run tests. The AE OBDII connector may not be seating properly.

 

Payson, glad you posted this - I checked mine and am getting different results.

The top right is showing a continuous .6V, no matter if key is on or off. Bottom left when key is on shows 4.5V. Bottom right shows correct battery volts.

any ideas??

 

I'll read mine again and get back to you. Look for an edit on this post.

EDIT: Mine reads the same as what I've shown. Unlike the wiring diagram below I have a ground on Pin 3 & 4, no connection on Pin 13 and I have no Overhead Trip Computer Module. I'm headed to a friend's to watch football in about 15 minutes.

 

No worries. I was at work and didn't read through all the posts.

 

Gosh I feel like I'm getting off track with this. I feel like I'm also getting this thread off track.

If anyone has ideas as to why the odb-II connector would show low voltage, I'd love to hear it but I feel still like this and my cold start problem are probably unrelated. As when I started this post, I should be tackling that monster first.

so back to that...if ae shows glow plug lamp on does that mean they're actually on or does it just mean that the pcm is trying to turn them on? Reason I ask is previously I turned the key and got no voltage to the glow plugs which leads me to think even tho ae shows them on they may still not be and I just have to find the reason for that to fix my cold starts.

Also, I did a dead cold injector buzz test, 6 of the 8 sound great, two were a little quieter. I don't feel like 2 of 8 injectors could cause the engine to barely even try to start.

 

Lots of good info in here. Thanks guys

 

Your write up for the glow plug has me a little confused. The picture for the Ca relay shows a shunt (that is on my 99 F350) but your diagram shows 2 plugs which I do not have unless they are hidden. My problem is the relay is outputting 11.5 vdc but I am only measuring 100mil volts at the glow plug. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Glenn