I am definately not with in the Normal Temperature band as depicted by BISMIC's chart. . I am low, and temp will drop to 175-178 ECT when I am off the throttle and come to a stop at a light or stop sign coming off the highway. EOT temp follows slowly. So it is swinging 8-15 degrees F.

I have P0528 locked in, but the fan will kick in at 210 ECT. I have seen that happen several times while towing up grades. It drops out at about 190 if I remember correctly.

May be on to something here at it may not cost me $3,500-$4,000 to fix! Which...Would Rock!

 

If the thermistate is stuck open you will run cool like you are but when its hot[ambeint temp] it can cause an overheat because the coolant is going threw the radiator so fast its not getting cooled properly before the coolant reenters the engine
thats what I get out of it anyway I always thought if the thermistate is stuck open it should just run cool but after some reaserch thats not always the case especialy if the MPH is slower

have you tested the coolant for Exhaust Gases??

 

Hey Blade,

No I have not done that yet. As a precaution, I am going to though. There is a lot of evidence that leads me to believe, through the help of davidkstyler that I have a coolant system problem. Those Items are:

1. I added concentrated Motorcraft Gold coolant with out diluting it to the degass bottle. Some was required (about 1/2 a gallon) after the EGR/Oil Cooler replacement I had done in November 2010. I then added more coolant after doing some towing of my Fifth Wheel during the summer and then in late August or September after going to Acadia National Park, and made the mistake of filling the bottle cold to the mid level mark. So I have a gallon of concentrated coolant in the system.

2. In August I bought a used Edge Insight Juice with Attitude. I got this for the purpose of monitoring temps, and other critical points as well as reading codes. That is when I discovered I had P0528.

3. P0528 concerned me because I thought I did not have the cooling fan when I needed it but was lulled into a sense of security because the next camping trip we went on, EGT got to 215F, I heard the fan kick on (Hard to miss!) and kick off at about 190f. That does not mean it is doing its job all the time though. And something I am going to get fixed before I tow next year. Still, something causes that fan to kick on and off. Perhaps the code is in and out.

4. ECT/EOT are low, BISMICs charts describe 190 - 200. Unless I am doing 70-80 MPH I am always about 10+ degrees shy of that or more, running in the upper 170's to lower 180's doing 40-60 mph. This I now understand suggests a partially stuck open or fully stuck open thermo-Stat.

I am going to do the strips, I also have built a gauge with high temp instrument tubing and swage-loc fittings and a tee to attach to the degass bottle to monitor pressure as described in TSB 09-8-3.

I saw in a video today what "puking" looks like. I am going to stop using the word "puking" because it IS NOT puking. "Spritzing" I guess would be a better term! And only under load while towing.

I learned a good deal about this topic today! Good stuff so far!

Eric

 

Item 3 - I think my fan kicks in around that temperature but probably shuts off around 200 F. It can vary depending on a number of parameters.

I really think that getting your operating temperature up would be best before you try anything else.

Here is PartGuyEd.com price.
<TABLE class=tabletext cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 4px double" vAlign=top>Thermostat, f250 pick-up, 6.0l diesel - 1999-07 super duty - 1999-07 SUPER DUTY
</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 4px double" vAlign=top noWrap align=middle>03-07 </TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 4px double" vAlign=top align=right>$31.37</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 4px double" vAlign=top align=right> </TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 4px double" vAlign=top align=right>$22.58 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I didn't get far enough to get shipping.

I don't think that 0.5 gallon of 100% coolant mixed with about 7 gallons of 50/50 is going to hurt the system.

 

Just take a coolant Hydrometer and test the coolant for 50/50 mix there cheap like 3.00 from any auto parts store

It took me 3.5 gal of concentraite when I went threw the oil cooler egr cooler thing cuz you only get 1/2 the water out regaurdless

so if you added some thats better than to weak to weak causes rust and cavitation

just test then drain a little off if its to strong

I usually run a touch strong coolant like 60/40

Fan speed very by ambeint temp,MPH,A/C/ECT,EOT stuff like that

does that edge watch the Fan
I know I watch mine with SGII

 

Thank you very much! I love this site!

Eric

 

Also 1 more thing is Water Pump

It maynot be moving coolant like it should

the problem is it develops cavitation in the front cover around the pump and then just dont have the flow and if it dont have enough flow coolant can boil and cause your Sprites LOL

This option maybe more of a last resort

Do the coolant cap,thermostat Test strips stuff like that first

If you had an EGR cooler Blowout and didnt flush the system Fulley the test strips may give a False Positive
Just saying^^^^^^^ Cuz IDK your exact senerio what happened with all that work Oil Cooler & Egr cooler

 

Blade, I changed the cap out in September. I still have the old one. One thing I did not do is to check for nicks or damage to the degass bottle lip. When I walk out of work tonight I will check that prior to leaving. Simple enough!

I have the bill from the work that was done on my truck by McFarland Ford in Exeter, NH, and spent a while on at least two occasions talking to Ralph (I think his name was) a 23 year Ford Master Mechanic, Diesel guy while he got me all cleaned up and fixed. He was very knowledgeable and what I liked most was he made sure that I understood what he did, and what condition everything was in. I really appreciated that. He was very thorough.

At the time I was not able to speak the lingo in regards to the different flushing chemicals and frankly a lot of other things that are peculiar about the 6.0L. I have spent a lot of time, while I am not actively working reading, scanning posts, digging into posts, I copied the Tech Manual, codes, I have a folder I keep in the truck with information from this site, just in case!

Long story short, Ralph said it was, I have the bill with the different solutions on it, and I have clear fluid with no visible debris in it. And I believe he did do a thorough flush.

I'll do the strips, Check the lip, replace the thermostat and we'll see what's what!

Eric

 

The only time mine would overboost was when towing my boat. Its easy to clean the turbo, and doesnt cost anything but a couple hours time.

 

I may add that to the list! One of those no harm no foul can't hurt sort of things!

Eric

 

Last night on the way home from work I checked the lip of the degas bottle. It seemed okay. It was dark so I will look again in the light today.

I paid close attention to my Edge Insight. here is the temps and time elapsed.

Ambient temp 44 degress.
35mph for 5 minutes.
ECT/EOT 55 at start and rose to ECT 158 EOT 165

Turned off secondary road onto primary road 35 to 55 mph
55 mph for 2 minutes
ECT climbed to 178, EOT to 180

Merged with highway. Speed increased to 65 MPH for 3 minutes.
ECT climbed 182 EOT climbed to 186 and settled at 184 (after acceleration temp increase)

Set cruise control to 70 mph for 5 minutes
ECT 188 settling to 186 EOT reaching 190 and settling at 188. (after acceleration temp increase)

Set cruise control to 75 mph for a little less than 5 minutes.
ECT climbed and held at 188 EOT climbed and held at 190.

Came off of highway heading home 75 mph down to a stop and then 35 mph to home base.
ECT steadily dropped to 180 EOT lagging and dropping below to 188.

In the driveway and parked for about 2 minutes ECT was down to 178 and toggling between 176, EOT down to 184.

There it is. It's running cold if I understand correctly.

Eric

 

Another thought, when you drain the coolant to change the thermostat you can use a male hex key to loosen the radiator drain plug. The last time I opened mine using a small crescent wrench it snapped off. Brittle plastic! Luckily there was enough of the internal hex to get the plug out.

Don't forget to update this thread with your results, that's how we all learn!

I know this forum has saved me thousands of dollars by helping me get up to speed with my truck and when I replaced my EGR/Engine Oil Cooler, replacing a water pump, flushing the coolant system, checking the charging system, block heater (that I didn't know was there), the list goes on and on. Check into becoming a Supporter, if nothing else it gets rid of the ads!

Good Luck and Merry Christmas!

 

I made a run to New York to see my father. 4 1/2 hour drive. Truck ran just fine. Low temps though, still. I did lose a little coolant. about 1/4 inch low from starting level on the degass bottle. Temps were in the low 30's most of the trip.

No symptoms of white smoke, black smoke, etc. Check EGR valve, it was good, a bit dirty but not bad. I cleaned that a few months ago. Dry in the port. Thinned the replacement coolant as per the directions with distilled water and drove home. Temps in lower 20's, once getting into the Berkshires temps dropped to mid to high teens.

Ran between 75-80 mph, ECT about 182-186 depending on grade/flats. EOT 186 -192 max dependant on grades, speed.

I have purchased a new Thermostat and gasket, got Rotors and Brake pads and started getting into doing the maintenance. That is when I looked up torque values! Holy Kanasta! Well, needless to say I did not have a torque wrench in the range for the Caliper anchor bolts!

Found a Ford Master Mechanic now running his own garage about 4 miles from the house. 6 years with a local Ford Dealer, 5 years with another Ford dealer before that. Specializes in Ford vehicles especially 7.3's, and 6.0's. In talking to him he has been kinda amazed at the 6.4 and 6.7's. Calls the engines prima-donna's, sensitive to everything. Kinda funny hearing him talk about those engines that way!

Any way, talked turkey with him in regard to temps, coolers, EGR issues, tuners, oil, filters, FICM etc. I was very impressed with his willingness to speak to me about the truck. He asked me what I have done with it so far, mods, updates etc and I mentioned what I have had done, who did it and that I am towing a good sized fifth wheel.

He mentioned headgaskets and to watch them because of the load I was towing. Said he would get me taken care of if there was an issue that developed and "I Don't Use Victor Reintz / Black Onyx Gaskets anymore. Apparently he had a least one set fail on him and it cost him a good deal of money to get it right for the owner. Did not ask him if he found the root cause or not. I will though on Thursday. ie: Milled heads, torque values, etc. See if he can tell me what happened.

Hopefully this guy is as good as he sounds. I would like to have a good DM around the corner!

It will be nice to have an answer for the temperature issues as well!

Eric

 

so you didnt do the brakes

I know when I did balljoints I didnt have a torque wrench that went that high
I thought Man I Have to have them tourqued properly or it wont steer right so I ponied up and bought a Torque wrench that went to 250FT/LBS
brakes I would have guessed on though

I figure everytime I do a job the money I save on labor I can buy a tool or 2 been doing that for years now starting to get a pretty good stash of them. Im shure M-chain or Cheezit has the holy Grail of tool boxs but one can only dream

Did you pull the trailer on the trip or just go empty

Id have to say if your egr valve was DRY you know thats not a problem so you could pput one of thos etest strips in the coolant that checks for exhaust gasses and if its positive you know that its probably the heads Gaskets

 

Nope didn't pull the 5vr. She's put away for the winter. YEAH! I'd love to see one of those tool boxes or cribs! The test strips had slipped my mind. I will ask the mechanic if he can do that or I'll get them at NAPA.

I figured I got some time before next towing season so I'd go one thing at a time.

I wish I had taken pictures because the "Spritzing" (I'll call it) isn't really anything compared to some photos and videos I have seen. I would say 20-30 specks of dried coolant around the degass bottle and on the air filter cover. Which, BTW, I have not seen any of since the last time I towed.

I'll get it figured out! One way or another!