I posted this on the Y-block site but I know we have a lot of really good wrench turns here as well, so if you have any ideas please help me out.

So my '58 292 f100 had been starting but doing so with a bit of attitude. It would turn over fine but would take a while to actually start and I was worried that with the winter coming it would only get worse and I would end up burning out a starter. So I took it into the garage and tuned the carb and played with the timing a little figuring that would fix it. Well I got it running really nice, got rid of a little hesitation I was experience off stops and it just ran and sounded great. That was yesterday. This morning I go to start it and it just does not want to start, it sound like it is having a rough time kicking over, almost like it is trying to fire a little early. It finally did start but I definitely dont want to have that be the way it starts every morning. I will say that once it was warmed up it ran like a dream again but I did stop it and when I tried to restart it at work this morning it still was a pita but was a little quicker to start. Any help or suggestions would be great.
Thanks
Cbass

 

First thing I'd suspect is a fuel pump that's got bad check valves or is just not pumping. Try putting a bit of gas down the carb before your next cold start. If it pops right off, you'll have your answer.

 

got a fuel pressure gauge? My truck (226 flathead) boils off all the gas in the carb after you shut it off - which is "hard start" in that you have to crank for 5 full seconds to refill the carb, but it isn't "hard" - turns over just fine.
I concur with Ross in that it is most likely fuel system related since you just tuned the carb - but I'll ask, when's the last time the carb has been rebuilt.
Think horses not zebras right - take a gauge to it and see if your pressure is good all the time, or flatline after letting it sit, etc - test the easy common things first.

 

What check valve are you talking about? The interior one? do I need to take the whole pump apart to see if that is working properly and is there a diagram that would show me that so I dont ruin it? Thanks for the help.

 

I just want to follow this one. Same problem...

 

Sir , Check out the "bypass circuit" with a test light on the " I" side of the solenoid when cranking the engine , you should be getting power out of the solenoid to feed 12 volts to the coil when the starter is turning. Good Luck, Kenny Nunez

 

I dont think it is a wiring issue (could be wrong) because it does turn over just fine when it is not over advanced. I really want to test the fuel pump theory but not sure how without taking it apart because I believe the check valve is internal and I dont even know where to begin then. Any suggestions?

 

fuel pressure gauge - depending on what the results are at idle, reved up, immediately after shut off, and longer term after shutoff can tell you a lot without disassembling (note never take apart anything you don't have seals and gaskets for - I learned this repeatedly firsthand, but I'm a slow learner) you can even narrow down pump v. carb by putting a shutoff in the circuit and testing both sides of the shutoff

 

Thanks Brain?, I understood everything up to the shutoff in the circuit part. I am at the firehouse right now but will stop at the parts store and get a fuel pressure gauge, if you have time and can explain the other part before that I will try it as well.
cbass

 

Probably have to buy a gauge, a T fitting (to put the gauge on), and a shutoff.



Two tests, plumb it up as shown in Test config A - run until warmed up (obviously valve open), then shut down and shut valve. If pressure drops after a period then somewhere in carb float /internal seals, etc - problem is in the carb.

plumb up as shown in Test config B - run until warmed up (again have to be open to run), then shut down and shut valve. If pressure drops after a period then somewhere in the pump.


In my case "a period of time" was as little as 4 hours (from time I clocked in at work till lunch) and I was able to figure out my issue was in the carb not the pump.

 

My think horses not zebras is suggesting you should probe the most likely first. Carb's get icky sticky nasty - almost automatically when you let it sit, in my experience pumps don't die as easy. Make the determination between the likely (carb) and the symptomatic (pump) before you tear into things.

[edit] Let me amend - Ross's test is really easy, pour a little gas down the carb.... no plumbing, no buying stuff - do the easy test first, then if that confirms you are in the right neighborhood (fuel) then after that troubleshoot the fuel system. Heck could be your ballast resistor is causing you fits - overheating the coil maybe, then coil not likey to work during crank?

 

I'm probably wrong on this one, but, seems to be a choke problem.

 

In Chicago in the winter, very possible

Does this carb have an "automatic" choke?

 

nope it is a manual choke, how can i test the choke theory or tell how much to pull it out?

 

Pull the manual choke all the way out and when you hear the motor catch, shove it in about half way and lightly feather the gas pedal. If you flood it let it sit for a minute or two, maybe five, and try again.