99 ranger
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From: Phill Mo
99 ranger
hey guys i got a 99 ranger 4x4 3.o auto xcab.. i have 31 10.50 good year wranglers,it has a kn filter in it, i get 15.5 mpg, was getting better, what are you guys doing to get milage? i was looking at doing a cold air intake and i found some lock out hubs on ebay..... it also had stright pipe on it i put a flowmaster in its place was way way to loud...i could use any help you all could give me! thanks this is my back up while my f250 stroker is down.. thanks guys
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From: Phill Mo
yeah it had them when i bought it. i was geting 20 with easy, should i go to a cold air intake instead of the stock box? also it has 144,000 on it so wanna do plugs and wires what do yourecomend? also cel light keeps comeing on. cod was for egr i did a new one but it keeps comeing back.... i no it dont have a cat but will that cause the cel light? thanks
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I don't think the cold air intake will have much if any effect on mileage. The plugs and wire would be a good idea, since you don't know how long they've been in there. Forget the marketing hype for "high performance" wires or plugs, all it is is hype. Just use regular replacement wires, and Motorcraft or Autolite Platinum plugs (not for any performance or mileage gain, but they will last 100,000 mi.)
You can hook up a code reader and see what codes it's throwing, but in my experience it's been sooted up oxygen sensors- expensive at the dealer, but you might find better prices online. Mine don't seem to affect mileage, so if they occasionally light the CEL I don't worry about it.
The lack of a converter may very well be what's triggering the light, get one off a salvage truck, they're expensive new.
You can hook up a code reader and see what codes it's throwing, but in my experience it's been sooted up oxygen sensors- expensive at the dealer, but you might find better prices online. Mine don't seem to affect mileage, so if they occasionally light the CEL I don't worry about it.
The lack of a converter may very well be what's triggering the light, get one off a salvage truck, they're expensive new.
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From: Phill Mo
I don't think the cold air intake will have much if any effect on mileage. The plugs and wire would be a good idea, since you don't know how long they've been in there. Forget the marketing hype for "high performance" wires or plugs, all it is is hype. Just use regular replacement wires, and Motorcraft or Autolite Platinum plugs (not for any performance or mileage gain, but they will last 100,000 mi.)
You can hook up a code reader and see what codes it's throwing, but in my experience it's been sooted up oxygen sensors- expensive at the dealer, but you might find better prices online. Mine don't seem to affect mileage, so if they occasionally light the CEL I don't worry about it.
The lack of a converter may very well be what's triggering the light, get one off a salvage truck, they're expensive new.
You can hook up a code reader and see what codes it's throwing, but in my experience it's been sooted up oxygen sensors- expensive at the dealer, but you might find better prices online. Mine don't seem to affect mileage, so if they occasionally light the CEL I don't worry about it.
The lack of a converter may very well be what's triggering the light, get one off a salvage truck, they're expensive new.
what bout lock out hubs and a chip, or programer, i no my programer did wonders on my powerstroke
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I haven't researched programmers for these, I have one on my fuel injected Harley, $300 and different maps can be downloaded and installed to match modifications. You only get what you pay for with those, do your homework and compare brands.
Manual hubs, AGM/Rugged Ridge (same item rebadged) about $140, and easy to install
Manual hubs, AGM/Rugged Ridge (same item rebadged) about $140, and easy to install
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From: Phill Mo
I haven't researched programmers for these, I have one on my fuel injected Harley, $300 and different maps can be downloaded and installed to match modifications. You only get what you pay for with those, do your homework and compare brands.
Manual hubs, AGM/Rugged Ridge (same item rebadged) about $140, and easy to install
Manual hubs, AGM/Rugged Ridge (same item rebadged) about $140, and easy to install
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That truck should have pulse vacuum operated hubs. When they work correctly they lock when 4x4 is selected and unlock when you go back to 2 wheel, they have a reputation for lack of reliability with age and miles, so mine got replaced.
You should gain a mile or two to the gallon if they were stuck and keeping front end components turning. At any rate, it's peace of mind knowing you've got control of that.
Good luck with the truck, let us know if we can help again.
You should gain a mile or two to the gallon if they were stuck and keeping front end components turning. At any rate, it's peace of mind knowing you've got control of that.
Good luck with the truck, let us know if we can help again.
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From: SW Va
You have a factory installed cold air intake, thats not restrictive for your size engine, so "no need to fix what aint broke" as the old timers used to tell us youngsters!!!!!
^+1 on shovelmikes ideas & on using Motorcraft wires & the new finewire iridium enhanced plugs with platinum pad sidewire, (as they're designed for & needed to keep spark gap in spec, in our "waste spark" ignition system) & i agree, bringing the vehicle up to date on All past & present due scheduled replacement maintenance items is a good idea.
With the mileage you have on this ride, a number of things need scheduled maintenance replacement, like PCV valve, fuel & air filter ( Motorcraft or PureOne recommended), replace O2 sensors, remove & Carefully clean the MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor spray cleaner & keep it squeeky clean on re-installation, use the specified 5W20 crank case lube & Motorcraft filter, drop the tranny pan to inspect deposit load & type, clean the pan & magnet, replace the filter & continue on with a full tranny fluid pumpout with a licensed Mercon-V product, as most of the old fluid is still in the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines & the severe service replacement time is at least every 30K miles. There is a pump out how-too in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum that you can do & save yourself $100 on that service!!!!! Lots of other helpful info there too, including a section toward the bottom of the page, just for the 3.0L
SO, I agree, spend your time & gold getting the vehicles scheduled maintenance up to date, rather than spending your gold on expensive add-ons that if not balanced & done properly, will likely result in less, not more performance.
If your bound & determined to do more, go to someone that understands the Rangers 3.0L push rod Vulcan engine & how to properly tune it, from the intake, to the engine, to the exhaust & has dyno data to support what they want to do. To get more out power out, we have to cram more fuel & air in & that isn't synonymous with better mpg!!!!!
Bama Chips is said to be knowledgeable about Ranger chip tuning, so once you get the intake, engine & exhaust work done, that way you'll have everything working together & they can then program a chip to take the best advantage of what you've had done, but Don't expect the Vulcan to become a pavement ripping, fire breathing street monster, unless you super charge or put a nitro kit on it & then you had better have it's innards prepaired & tuning right, or it'll come unraveled & that won't be pretty!!!!!
Again all of the above performance mods won't help mpg & has been said, lugging around larger tires, the weight of 4X4 running gear & a boat load of random engine mods that aren't working together, won't help either.
BTW, the EGR code is likely having to do with the DPFE sensor, as it's a common misbehaving EGR system part, but the trouble code Number would be helpful in determining that. As you've discovered, the EGR valve itself rarely fails, unless it's rusted & falling apart!!!!
A bunch more thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
^+1 on shovelmikes ideas & on using Motorcraft wires & the new finewire iridium enhanced plugs with platinum pad sidewire, (as they're designed for & needed to keep spark gap in spec, in our "waste spark" ignition system) & i agree, bringing the vehicle up to date on All past & present due scheduled replacement maintenance items is a good idea.
With the mileage you have on this ride, a number of things need scheduled maintenance replacement, like PCV valve, fuel & air filter ( Motorcraft or PureOne recommended), replace O2 sensors, remove & Carefully clean the MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor spray cleaner & keep it squeeky clean on re-installation, use the specified 5W20 crank case lube & Motorcraft filter, drop the tranny pan to inspect deposit load & type, clean the pan & magnet, replace the filter & continue on with a full tranny fluid pumpout with a licensed Mercon-V product, as most of the old fluid is still in the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines & the severe service replacement time is at least every 30K miles. There is a pump out how-too in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum that you can do & save yourself $100 on that service!!!!! Lots of other helpful info there too, including a section toward the bottom of the page, just for the 3.0L
SO, I agree, spend your time & gold getting the vehicles scheduled maintenance up to date, rather than spending your gold on expensive add-ons that if not balanced & done properly, will likely result in less, not more performance.
If your bound & determined to do more, go to someone that understands the Rangers 3.0L push rod Vulcan engine & how to properly tune it, from the intake, to the engine, to the exhaust & has dyno data to support what they want to do. To get more out power out, we have to cram more fuel & air in & that isn't synonymous with better mpg!!!!!
Bama Chips is said to be knowledgeable about Ranger chip tuning, so once you get the intake, engine & exhaust work done, that way you'll have everything working together & they can then program a chip to take the best advantage of what you've had done, but Don't expect the Vulcan to become a pavement ripping, fire breathing street monster, unless you super charge or put a nitro kit on it & then you had better have it's innards prepaired & tuning right, or it'll come unraveled & that won't be pretty!!!!!
Again all of the above performance mods won't help mpg & has been said, lugging around larger tires, the weight of 4X4 running gear & a boat load of random engine mods that aren't working together, won't help either.
BTW, the EGR code is likely having to do with the DPFE sensor, as it's a common misbehaving EGR system part, but the trouble code Number would be helpful in determining that. As you've discovered, the EGR valve itself rarely fails, unless it's rusted & falling apart!!!!
A bunch more thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,166
Likes: 1
From: Phill Mo
You have a factory installed cold air intake, thats not restrictive for your size engine, so "no need to fix what aint broke" as the old timers used to tell us youngsters!!!!!
^+1 on shovelmikes ideas & on using Motorcraft wires & the new finewire iridium enhanced plugs with platinum pad sidewire, (as they're designed for & needed to keep spark gap in spec, in our "waste spark" ignition system) & i agree, bringing the vehicle up to date on All past & present due scheduled replacement maintenance items is a good idea.
With the mileage you have on this ride, a number of things need scheduled maintenance replacement, like PCV valve, fuel & air filter ( Motorcraft or PureOne recommended), replace O2 sensors, remove & Carefully clean the MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor spray cleaner & keep it squeeky clean on re-installation, use the specified 5W20 crank case lube & Motorcraft filter, drop the tranny pan to inspect deposit load & type, clean the pan & magnet, replace the filter & continue on with a full tranny fluid pumpout with a licensed Mercon-V product, as most of the old fluid is still in the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines & the severe service replacement time is at least every 30K miles. There is a pump out how-too in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum that you can do & save yourself $100 on that service!!!!! Lots of other helpful info there too, including a section toward the bottom of the page, just for the 3.0L
SO, I agree, spend your time & gold getting the vehicles scheduled maintenance up to date, rather than spending your gold on expensive add-ons that if not balanced & done properly, will likely result in less, not more performance.
If your bound & determined to do more, go to someone that understands the Rangers 3.0L push rod Vulcan engine & how to properly tune it, from the intake, to the engine, to the exhaust & has dyno data to support what they want to do. To get more out power out, we have to cram more fuel & air in & that isn't synonymous with better mpg!!!!!
Bama Chips is said to be knowledgeable about Ranger chip tuning, so once you get the intake, engine & exhaust work done, that way you'll have everything working together & they can then program a chip to take the best advantage of what you've had done, but Don't expect the Vulcan to become a pavement ripping, fire breathing street monster, unless you super charge or put a nitro kit on it & then you had better have it's innards prepaired & tuning right, or it'll come unraveled & that won't be pretty!!!!!
Again all of the above performance mods won't help mpg & has been said, lugging around larger tires, the weight of 4X4 running gear & a boat load of random engine mods that aren't working together, won't help either.
BTW, the EGR code is likely having to do with the DPFE sensor, as it's a common misbehaving EGR system part, but the trouble code Number would be helpful in determining that. As you've discovered, the EGR valve itself rarely fails, unless it's rusted & falling apart!!!!
A bunch more thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
^+1 on shovelmikes ideas & on using Motorcraft wires & the new finewire iridium enhanced plugs with platinum pad sidewire, (as they're designed for & needed to keep spark gap in spec, in our "waste spark" ignition system) & i agree, bringing the vehicle up to date on All past & present due scheduled replacement maintenance items is a good idea.
With the mileage you have on this ride, a number of things need scheduled maintenance replacement, like PCV valve, fuel & air filter ( Motorcraft or PureOne recommended), replace O2 sensors, remove & Carefully clean the MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor spray cleaner & keep it squeeky clean on re-installation, use the specified 5W20 crank case lube & Motorcraft filter, drop the tranny pan to inspect deposit load & type, clean the pan & magnet, replace the filter & continue on with a full tranny fluid pumpout with a licensed Mercon-V product, as most of the old fluid is still in the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines & the severe service replacement time is at least every 30K miles. There is a pump out how-too in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum that you can do & save yourself $100 on that service!!!!! Lots of other helpful info there too, including a section toward the bottom of the page, just for the 3.0L
SO, I agree, spend your time & gold getting the vehicles scheduled maintenance up to date, rather than spending your gold on expensive add-ons that if not balanced & done properly, will likely result in less, not more performance.
If your bound & determined to do more, go to someone that understands the Rangers 3.0L push rod Vulcan engine & how to properly tune it, from the intake, to the engine, to the exhaust & has dyno data to support what they want to do. To get more out power out, we have to cram more fuel & air in & that isn't synonymous with better mpg!!!!!
Bama Chips is said to be knowledgeable about Ranger chip tuning, so once you get the intake, engine & exhaust work done, that way you'll have everything working together & they can then program a chip to take the best advantage of what you've had done, but Don't expect the Vulcan to become a pavement ripping, fire breathing street monster, unless you super charge or put a nitro kit on it & then you had better have it's innards prepaired & tuning right, or it'll come unraveled & that won't be pretty!!!!!
Again all of the above performance mods won't help mpg & has been said, lugging around larger tires, the weight of 4X4 running gear & a boat load of random engine mods that aren't working together, won't help either.
BTW, the EGR code is likely having to do with the DPFE sensor, as it's a common misbehaving EGR system part, but the trouble code Number would be helpful in determining that. As you've discovered, the EGR valve itself rarely fails, unless it's rusted & falling apart!!!!
A bunch more thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
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