I guess I need to look into this further then. Mine is a '93 5.8. Obviously I'll need the sensor, hoses and the comp. I'm guessing since your saying it's simple I can use my harness with some mods? Do you know of a good source where I can find some info on the conversion?

 

Talk to Paul (Conanski)....

Fordfuelinjection.com is a GREAT source if info in this...

 

I forgot to ask, are you using the stock torque converter?

 

On my 94 5.0 I was swapping from a e4od automatic to a zf5 manual, I just snagged the computer and harness off a 95 5.0 5 speed truck and swapped it to mine, i gained maf in the process. On my buddies 93 i followed a cut and splice diagram I found on the internet and just matched wires to wires by color code. Sorry I cant be of more help, wiring isnt exactly my strongest suit.

 

Yup thats with the stock converter, everything is stock transmission wise

 

I second the LS, just installed in my truck along with 3.55s and it made a huge difference and just as smooth as my open was. I am guessing with the 30# injectors you are running a bit rich. I am running 24# EV6's on my 347 (352....it is .060 over), and I do not need more injector unless I am running alot of wot runs on e85. I get 120% injector pulse at wot with e85, so they are static at that point, although my afrs as datalogged by my wideband are still dead on. One thing of note.....you are never really hitting 40 before it shifts..the tranny thinks it is there because of the spin and shifts. You are more like 30 as that is what your needle falls to before climbing....unless it is spinning again. Wheelspin bites. Looking good though.

 

Man...sounds good!! My 100K mile 302 is gutless!!!!
I've thought of building roller block and using E303 cam, but with only speed density I'm not sure. I sure do hate these AOD trannys. They suck at about everything unless you get one warmed over. My 89 doesn't have the pushbutton so you can't hold it in 2nd gear. Yuk.

 

Thanks for the input bud, after doing some reading and research Im thinking a drop down the 24lb injectors is the way to go. After about a decade of building carbed Ford powerplants with C6's or manuals this is my first attempt at a EFI/ computer tranny build so theres been a bit of a learning curve. Its got the 30 pounders in it now since i got the intake, injectors, and throttle body all together for dirt cheap from a buddy. Ive flip flopped between a ported stock truck intake, a gt40, and now the trickflow all with the stock 19lb injectors and the 30s. On the 19s it runs lean, on the 30s it bogs and pukes smoke with the gt40 and the truck intake. With the trickflow and the 75mm throttle body it bogs down a little bit under light throttle but runs like it does in the video when standing on it.

Have you done anything to tune the computer on yours? Thats the whole part of the equation that confuses me on mine. Ive looked into tweecer and moates but after not understanding a damn thing i read i figured id just have it dyno tuned once i get it in the relm of running somewhat decent.

 

Thanks man. I know the gutless feeling all to well, I picked up a buddies 2wd 93 F150 to do some work on it for him, its a automatic with a 300 in a extended cab long box. I can have mine buried past 85 bouncing off the fuel cutoff before i can even hit 35 in his barge.

Im learning to hate my 4R70W a little more every day. Makes me miss the shift kit equipped C6 I had behind my mild 351 in my 86 f150. Granted it didnt pull anywhere near as hard as this thing does but the ability to hit second in the blink of an eye and hop the rear end up while leaving a pound of rubber on the street between shifts is something i miss dearly

 

Yes....I do all my own tuning, see sig. I use Moates Quarterhorse with Clint Garrity's binary editor, which IMO is the way to go. I also use a innovate lc1 wideband for afr's. Tuning is where it is at once you modify. I would definitely go with the 24's. The way your eec sees your injectors is right now no matter what you have in there it sees them as 19 pounders. It will base the pulse width on the 19# characteristics. So if it commands "x" pulsewidth to hit the commanded AFR your 30's would be dumping more fuel for the same "x" pulsewidth. You will need to have the injector size updated, the correct injector offset loaded, and then tune maf curve with wideband o2 to get it closer. You can then begin playing with the fuel tables, idle settings, timing curves and transmission settings. Tuning my transmission made all the difference....I LOVE my 4r70w, although I have upgraded to a stronger 2003 model. The can handle the power no problem.

 

After tuning...my truck basically behaves like a stock truck the way it idles and drives...other than the power difference. Also check out this thread i had about tuning for more info.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-others.html

 

Amesome, thanks a bunch man thats basically all the info Ive been looking for as far as tuning goes. I can find all kinds of info on doing mustangs but not much on trucks. One thing I did notice with tweecer and moates is they advertise for being used with EEC-IV, will tuning devices such as those work/play nice with EEC-V and obd2 in my 96?

Ive put a lot of consideration into going the dyno tuning route and leaving all the tuning to someone else, but the more thought I put into it the more I feel like I'd rather do it myself and learn some things in the process.

 

Why not let them do it, get it right, and simply watch AND learn?

Then try again with a side project....

 

No kidding! My stock Flareside is the same speed 0-60. :P

0-60mph - YouTube


I was even going uphill in that video!

 

If you wanna get technical or make excuses Im going up hill as well, merging onto a elevated highway. All well burning a tire off through first, hitting second when it sees 40, losing speed while still spinning, down shifting on its on and spinning some more, and finally grabbing completely at 45-50. All while running pig rich and throwing black smoke.

Like I said its a work in progress, I'd be more then happy to blow your doors off when I have traction and a proper tune.