I never got good mpg so I'll let someone else answer that. My guess, it depends on your right foot.

Torque, its not how fast you hit a brick wall, its how far you take it with you! LOL A guy used to have that in his signature. I explained torque to my son-in-law like this. If a basketball was rolling across the floor, would you stick your foot out to stop it? Sure, no problem. If that ball was solid lead the size of a basketball rolling across the floor you would think twice about sticking your foot out there to stop it-torque! LOL.

 

FWIW, with a mostly stock CCLB,E4OD, and 4.10 gears, I averaged 16.3 MPG last fill-up. And that is mostly mixed driving to work and back about 8 miles at a time. I m pretty pleased with that.

Glenn, that's a really good analogy. The other side of that equation is HP, which would be the equivalent of that same basketball moving at say 100 MPH. You wouldn't want to try to stop it then. Torque is essentially defined as force exerted to move something, or in an engine's case, rotational force. Horsepower is the ability to do work, which requires force (torque in this case) but also takes into account the speed with which that force can be exerted. The equation is Torque times Speed (RPM) divided by 5252 (TQ x RPM)/5252. So 100 ft lbs of torque at 5252 RPM equals 100 HP. (100 x 5252/5252 = 100). However, that same 100 ft lbs of torque at 2626 RPM is only 50 HP (100 x 2626/5252=50) By the same token that very same 100 ft lb of torque at 10,504 RPM is 200 HP, so you kinda get an idea for how the numbers flow. Torque is the ability to move the load, but HP takes into account how fast you can move it too.

Coincidentally, if you get a picture for how this relationship works, the HP and TQ numbers for our trucks makes a lot more sense. With peak power in our trucks is typically generated around 2500-2600 RPM is also why the torque numbers are generally about twice the HP. You;re multiplying your torque number by 2500-2600 and then dividing it by 5252 (per the equation) and basically cutting your peak torque number in half to get your HP rating.

Ok, physics is over, I gotta get back to work... I just really like understanding why things work the way they do, that's all.

 

HPOP is different from 95-96 as well.

 

Really? I didn't know that. What is the difference?

 

On the 96 and up trucks, there is an anti-drainback valve in the front cover. On the 94.5-95 its part of the HPOP. Easy fix, just swap the front cover.

 

So could you use the 96 cover on an HPOP that has the anti-drainback vale in it or is it an issue to have the valve in both places?

 

I don't recall ever seeing anyone put an early model HPOP in a later model engine, I suppose it could be done. The HPOP does require a different gasket though, not sure if that would be an issue or not. OP can just swap the front cover over when he's doing the motor swap, or the 95 front cover can be modified for the later model HPOP... I believe there was a thread on PSN about that.

 

Good to know. Thanks for the info.

 

When Bob at Dieselsite sent me my adrenaline HPOP he made a mistake and sent me the wrong gasket. My HPOP res kept draining down and I had a hard time starting it. In the meantime MadVan wanted to buy my 17* HPOP (I gave it to him, that guy helped me out alot with my trans problems) so I stuck it into the box that my adrenaline came in and mailed it to MadVan. In the box I just shoved the plastic bags in that the gaskets came in. MadVan (Bill) emailed me and told me that I used the wrong gasket. I had no idea and because he was observant I called Bob and he said he was wondering why he had an extra gasket for a 96!! He apologized up one side of me and down the other and sent me another gasket. I forgave Bob, it happened at a time when I wasn't that busy but I got pretty good at changing out HPOP's, LOL. Good bedtime story, huh?

 

Cool...sorry I took so long to get back. Replies and input here still impress me. So the front cover and hpop are different. The bottom end is rugged enough to handle more than what i plan on throwin at it. The torque info is a nice refresher. DIY...You can write as many novels as you want as well as the others as it doesnt fall on def ears. I reallu enjoy it and also appreciate knowledge.

So clarifications...in yalls own experience, when overhauling the engine you dont have to change crank bearings and such? I had planned on having it all mic'd but I would trust yalls input if reccomended to leave it alone. I planned on honing and rings just wanna be sure i cover known fixes. While ur down there...thats what she said. Sorry...Im kinda gettin tired of that phrase myself.

I'll start down there and move on up. What cam is is best used before i go blindly shopping and waste my time. And are any upgrades suggested. Lifters? I noticed the rocker arms are different than im used to...any known fixes there?

Speaking of heads. Theyre bound to benefit from the standard port and polish or cnc whathaveya.

Also on that turbo question. Is the twin turbo a pipe dream, or nightmard would prollt be more accurate. I cant help but feel both economy and stability would benefit from this mod. Ima have an extra. But is it just not worth the trouble? Just as good to rewheel stock and live with the two stroke powerband effect? I wouldnt be looking to increase boost much...just flatten the boost curve. I was wondering about exhaust resistance vs boost benefit...maybe???

Thats alot of questions. I promise to respond quicker this time

 

I cant seem to edit replies... sorry for the crap spelling

 

Port and polishing the heads on one of these is next to pointless. Cant hurt, your right, but time/cost > gains

 

Thats exactly what i was worried about most of this stuff...cost vs benefit

 

The general consensus is that the P&P job is not worth it on these trucks. The fact that they run forced induction makes it of very little benefit.

Also, on the compound turbo setup, my take on that is that they are mainly for high performance applications. Also, they very rarely run twins (parallel) but usually a large and a small turbo in series are used for this application, so you're likely to have to buy two new turbos if you want to go this direction. Again, it can and has been done, but the cost versus benefit in my opinion is not that great. I would suggest you upgrade your HPOP, go to bigger injectors (maybe a nice set of 238/200 hybrids), go with electric fuel, an intercooler, maybe a water/meth injection system, a bigger turbo (there are a lot of different directions you can go here and I am not the one to recommend one to you), and then the supporting drivetrain mods to put that power to the ground.

That way you have a good start on your goals and can get the biggest bang for your buck without sinking a ton into an expensive compound turbo setup.

 

Your stock cam and rockers are fine but you will need chromemoly pushrods