Hmm, okey. This is educational!
I live in San Diego, southern part of California so the temps aren't that extreme when it comes to cold. Heat on the other hand there is plenty of.

The experience of Fram filters is based purely on what I've read. I havent got any "real" personal experience with them, more than that Hyundai has issued a document stating that those filters are not good for their engines, causing excessive valve ticking/knocking. But thats about all my experience with FRAM.

Changing oil requires a filter change, and I'm okay spending a few extra dollars for a filter.

Thanks guys, all of your input is really appreciated !

 

1987 Ford 302 truck engine..... didn't see that... run that puppy ...

I have had problems with fram filters... although they cam in with low oil pressure after the owner changed the oil and filter... changed the filter and all was good...

 

Yea its a '87 302 truck engine, hence me posting on this forum
Maybe should have been more clear on that...

So no need for any additives then? Did everyone else notice it was a 1987 302 engine and not a 67? Because that changes things i believe. It seems you guys saying no additives is necessary got this

 

You're all set run it..

 

No additives are needed. 1987 has hardened exhaust valves. Since you live in California, getting it smogged will be an issue. Since they go by the year of the engine, not the car. So you will need to get a cat. Unless of course, you don't TELL them it is a 1987 engine.

Jim

 

Okey awesome.
Now i just got to forget everything about the additives, and just trust plain ordinary oil to do good in the engine. Easier said then done when it comes to me...

Now i just got to get the new radiator home so we can fire her up again

Oh, and no, DMV or what does not know its a newer engine in the car. And neither do I...
I've tried searching for a good oil, but everything everyone recommends is synthetic, is this the route to go? I've found a list for good oils for flat-tappet engines and everything seems to be synthetic...

Maybe I'm over thinking this, and any 10w-30 oil from i.e. castrol or mobil 1 will do the trick. Im acting like this is between life and death, which it shouldn't be...

 

I would run synthetic, but that is jut me.

Jim

 

The E7TE casting does not mean it's from a truck. This casting was used for all applications calling for a 5.0 motor. The easiest way to tell if it's got a roller cam is to remove a valve cover, and one rocker arm. Then pull the pushrod out. Roller 5.0 pushrods are 6.25" long. If it's got a flat tappet cam, it'll have pushrods a half inch longer. As for what cam it's got if it is a roller, only pulling the cam will tell you which it is. Checking the firing order will narrow it some, the base roller (Crown Vic and 92-93 truck cam) uses the old 15426378 order, the HO and F4TE cams use the 13726548. The valve covers in your pics look like HO's

 

I learn something every day at this place, thanks!
At the moment i don't have the tools to remove the valve covers and rocker arms (torque wrench in particular), but when i do ill find out whats in the engine. Thanks

Tomorrow ill pick up a Motor craft oil filter together with some Synthetic Castrol Edge Syntec power oil. It's supposed to have higher levels of zinc in it, so i can sleep comfortably at night

Thanks

 

Hi guys!


Ive been using the first day of the new year to install the new radiator. Fired her up and checked all hoses for any leaks, and everything looked good. Took her for a slow drive around the parking lot, at idle speed for about 5 minutes, and when we opened the hood everything was really hot. The radiator and all the hoses were hot, the engine itself seemed hot (could feel the heat through the hood) but with 0 indication on the temp gauge. Didn't dare to run it any longer.

Is this normal? Doesn't it take some more time before you get a warm/hot engine? There appear to be adequate flow through the radiator, with water in all the hoses.

Thanks


Looked at how the distributor was hooked up, and the firing order was the same as for the HO motor. Thats a good thing i guess?

 

Get another temp gauge on it. As for the firing order, based on the valve covers and the HO firing order, it's a good chance it's an HO motor. Look at the lower front corner of the passenger side head, next to the valve cover, There you'll find a letter cast, if it's a "T", it's got E7TE heads. If there's an "S", it's got E6SE heads. The 86 HO motor used the E6 heads. The 87-95 Ho motor used the E7TE heads. The 94-97 Pickup and Van 5.0 had the same firing order with the F4TE cam they came with that too has that firing order and heads. You've got one or the other as far as what the engine is.

 

Okey, will have a look tomorrow.

Compared the temperature of the return hose on another car today that was up to temperature, and it sure is quite hot. Maybe nothing is wrong but just me being worried. Never really thought about how hot/cold stuff connected to the radiator should be, so this is a first.

 

If your radiator and fan are doing their job, the lower hose should be noticably cooler than the upper hose.

 

If the letter cast is on the lower front corner of the passenger side head, next to the valve cover, ill have to remove the alternator. Will do that when I've got some time over. Im curious

Replaced the temperature sensor on the motor after i checked that the instrument was working properly. Just did a small run-up and the temperature indication came alive. Havent driven it for more than 5 minutes yet, due to partially teared down interior. Waiting for some weird missing parts that i cannot for any reason see how they went missing, unless the previous owner actually removed them.

We're noticing a ticking noise when sitting inside the car on the passenger side. You can still hear it wherever in the car you are, but its defiantly coming from the passenger side of the car.
Ive checked for exhaust leaks and there appear to be none, though the gasket between the headers(?) and the rest of the exhaust looks a bit worn.
Could i be looking at lifter noise? Only on one side?

Pierre

 

The letter you're looking for is right up next to the valve cover, you shouldn't need to pull the alternator to see it. Ticking noise is more'n likely an exhaust leak. Ain;t seen a roller cammed 302 yet with a bad lifter.