I wasn't talking about the vehicle carrying a load, just when we load the engine when climbing a grade, or accelerating in higher gears, it puts a load on the engine causing the pistons to have to work harder, so if things in the combustion chamber aren't right, like compression, fuel trim, or spark, it can cause the engine to stumble, run rough, miss, be wimpy on output power, or otherwise act out.

 

I suppose you could have more than one problem, so if it's never had a pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout, it could likely need it.
What does the tranny fluid level look like when its up to operating temp????
What does the fluid color look, smell & feel like???? Maybe do a poor mans fluid analysis by placing a drop of tranny fluid on a piece of white blotter paper & post a picture of any pattern thats formed.

 

My buddy checked the level for me in September. The level was fine. Tomorrow, I will check the level again and put a drop on white paper or paper towel. If I am not mistaking, you check the tranny fluid when the truck is running and warm?

The jerking is also done on the highway or roads when level.

 

Yes, check fluid level after a 10 mile & back drive, so it's up to operating temp, at warm idle, on level ground, after shifting into All gears including "R" & with the shifter in "N" or "P".

Blotter paper which is tightly woven, or something like a business card works better to show any pattern on the fluid test.

If the tranny fluid has 30K miles or more on it, time for a pan drop, filter change & full fluid pumpout with a quality licensed Mercon-V fluid.

If the engine is misfiring under load, it can make the tranny act out & if the tranny or torque converter are acting out, it can sorta feel like an engine miss, so if you have a CEL lit, or OD light blinking, trouble codes are stored in the engine or tranny computer & you'll need to go to a gararge with a high end scantool to read any tranny computer codes, but most autoparts store can & will scan the engine computer at no cost. In any case post All code Numbers found & they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

 

Never had any codes flashing on the dash. I don't think my truck misfires. Runs pretty well.

Today I am gonna check the tranny fluid and post up a picture.

 

When you say it's sputtering & jerking, that leads one to think the engine is missing under load, now you say you don't think the engine misfires & that its running pretty well, so maybe I've been barking up the wrong tree & it's an acting out tranny, so more definitive definitions would be helpful.

 

Allright, I will make myself clear. I'm sorry for that.

Here is what I did today:

I went for a 20 KM drive. Smooth accelearation was used. Everything was fine and smooth until the automaitc transmission shifts into 4 or 5(not sure witch) at about 70 KM/H. The RPM is at about 1500. I want to accelerate, but the truck gives me a couple of jerks and then everything is back to normal. It does this oftenly on any kind of roads (except going down hill).

When the truck is idling, everything seems fine. The RPM needle stays straight. I do get the occasional small jerk (that is rather rare tho).

So, I think the motor is fine since it runs pretty well.

As for the trans fluid, I checked it, but getting a picture is kinda hard and my camera is being stupid. After driving for about 20 KM, just before coming home, I drove a bit in 1 and 2. So, I used all the gears today. I then put the truck in Park and checked the fluid. It seems to be at the right level and the color is the same color as pink lemonade.

 

OK, well it sounds like the tranny fluid level & color is ok.

From your description, to me it still sounds like an under load engine miss & thats usually caused by a spark problem, like spark plug gap being too wide & that can make for a weak spark that blows out when the engine is put under load. You could pull a couple of easy to get at spark plugs & check their spark gap & condition

Does it act out/jerk, when your going up a grade/hill, that would load the engine good before the engine down shifts???? If not, then it's some kind of tranny or torque converter clutch engagement problem. Maybe some gum, varnish, or sludge mucking up something like a solenoid or valve, or a pressure problem to the clutches. ect, ect.

If you come to suspect the tranny, have a trusted tranny shop take it for a test drive & go with them to demonstrate the problem, so they can see whats happening, under what conditions & maybe hook up their scantool so they can be monitoring whats going on in the tranny when it acts out.

EDIT: Does it do this if you turn the OD off????

 

Thanks for the help!!!

It always jerks at the same moment. As example, when going up a steep and long hill at 70 km/h it will sputter. So, I either floor it and it down shifts or, I let go of the gas.

But, the same issue is done on flat roads. If I go up a hill at 50 km/h, I wont have the problem.

The problem is only at about 15000-2000 RPM at about 70-90 km/h(during acceleration).

 

That really sounds like a spark problem to me, so pick a couple of easy to get at plugs & pull them & check their condition & spark gap.
Spark gap spec is .052(1.32mm)-.056(1.42mm) inches & seeing as how your likely up in cold country & spark gap is always opening up, I'd set the plug gap to the low side of spec, as it'll make for faster starts in really cold temps when the battery voltage is at its lowest & the battery, coil, fuel pump & starter motor are having to work their hardest to get us going.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Allright, thankyou for all the help!!!

 

I guess I could update this. Two nights ago I had the check engine light on. So, the next day I stopped by at Canadian Tire so that I could know what codes appeared. I had the PO171 and PO174. Those two codes ment system to lean in bank 1 and 2. The mechanic checked my MAF, my plug wires and plugs. He also drove my truck and said nothing was wrong with my truck. To me, that is rather strange.

So, this comes back to the sputtering. If my plug and wires are fine, that means the sputtering must come from the transmission. I am out of ideas here. I might bring my truck to a tranny shop to see if they could do something. Maybe a downshifting sensor is messed up. Because, if I let go of the throttle and then floor it, I have no problems. The sputterings stops.

 

OK, were any other codes found, if so post their code Numbers also.

Having the above two codes set, indicates that the air/fuel ratio in both cylinder banks is lean = too much air, the question is why????

Could be a vacuum leak that would affect both banks, like a soft poor fitting, dryrotted cracked, broken, leaking or disconnected vacuum line & this could include the rubber PCV valve hose or fitting, or even a dirty sticking open PCV valve, or intake manafold gasket leak.

Could also be a fuel delivery problem, like a clogged fuel filter, low fuel pressure from a pinched or kinked line, weak fuel pump, or clogged in tank fuel pump sock/pre filter, from in tank debris, to dirty fuel injectors, or low voltage to them, to an acting out MAF sensor, or even acting out O2 sensors.

SO, you need to begin a drill down trouble shoot, to try & find some more trouble code clues, to try & determine if its a fuel delivery, or vacuum leak problem.

SO, without more trouble code clues, maybe begin an under hood inspection of vacuum lines & fittings & PCV hoses & the PCV valve itself & listen for an intake manafold vacuum leak.

If no joy there, begin fuel pressure, MAF & O2 sensor tests & let us know what you find.

 

No other codes were found. I drove the truck today and yesterday. The check engine light did not appear. I also put some fuel injector cleaner when I tanked today. I got the STP fuel injector cleaner.

I don't think it would be the O2 sensors. What are the ods of them both going bad at the same time?

One interesting thing that is rather recent is that the truck hums a lot. That is coming from the air bowhere the air filter is). If I give some gas, the huming stops. I don't know if it is the cold weather doing that or something else causing that. Is there any way of finding a vacum leak?

Also, fuel economy isn't that good. I do have about 400 lbs of sand bags in the box and it is cold out, but I can only do about 250 KM on one tank.

 

Kinda sounds like something is amiss with the air box, so look around at its fastners, to make sure its buttoned up properly, if so, then open it up & have a look at the air filters rubber seal, to make sure it isn't damaged, or improperly installed, or maybe if its an aftermarket one it isnt sized to fit properly. In any case check it out for the noise as it could be letting unfiltered air into the engine & that can flul up the MAF sensor, but it isn't likely to be causing the lean codes.

As I suggested above, inspect for loose or damaged vacuum lines & an intake manafold gasket leak & see how it goes. You could rig an unlit propane bottle with a length of tubing & a sports needle attached as a probe, then with the engine at idle pass it around the intake manafold gaskets & listen for an increase in idle speed as the engine gets a whiff of propane through the leak. Propane won't harm O2 sensors.

If no joy there, then have a look at MAF & O2 sensors PID outputs to the computer with a scantool or multimeter if you don't have or can't come by a scantool, to see if they're in range. Seeing as how you have 185K Km on this ride & thats over 100K miles, the O2 sensors switching speed is likely slow, as they get that way with time/mileage.